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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ALSO ADDED: My main problem right now is getting out of the problem I created when I connect the +B in the diagnostics box to the GND in the diagnostics box..

ADDED: Well, my dumb ass didn't know that the thing beside the TEN connector was the battery positive (+B) and I connected it to the GND (+B to GND).. Now the lights on the dash (seatbelt, engine, etc.) dont come on when I move key to the ON position AND when I start the car, the shifter is locked (I can't press the button to move it into drive or neutral or anything, its stuck in park) and the RPM and all the other gauges don't move either.. I know I really really messed up.. Did I short the computer or something? If so, I'll need a new computer correct since its probably not fused? If it is fused, where are its fuses located? Sorry for the multiple Q's but I really need to know :( Please read below for more info on what I did exactly to get to this point :(


Hey.. A couple of weeks ago I did a home made intake with that home depot aluminum duct and a scoop at the bottom of my car. At the time, I removed the top of factory air box just to see how the OEM air filter was doing.. I took out the Intake Air Temp sensor from the factory airbox and cleaned it too.. When I put everything back and install my homemade intake, i drove around and after about a couple minutes of driving the CEL light would come on.. I thought it may be coming on because the new air flow or whatever so I reset computer, test drove but it still came on.. At this point I hooked up the factory intake back and the light still came on after about a couple mins of driving.. When you start the car up it doesn't come on, it only comes on after a coupla mins.. I went to the diagnosis box and was going to see the code but when I tried I found that there was no wire for the TEN connector in my box. I opened it up and saw that there was no wire going into that terminal even though it was there.. My car is 95 MX6 4cyl auto, so shouldnt there be the TEN wire in there? Anyway, I have no clue whatsoever about my problem.. I hooked up the GND to the slot next to it (i think its 8+ or B+) and then went but when I put the key to ON no lights (not even seatbelt etc.) came on so I just said screw that and took out the paper clip but then when I moved to on position the lights still didn't come on.. I'm resetting the computer right now and hopefully that will fix that, but I still don't know how to get the code for my CEL light. If you have any suggestions, please do reply.. OOPS forgot to mention: Also the idling is rough since the CEL light started coming on.. Most of the time it idles only at the first tick instead of the second.. Thanks..

Jason

[Edited by ATLien1222 on 09-28-2000 at 08:10 PM]
 

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ATLien1222 said:
ALSO ADDED: My main problem right now is getting out of the problem I created when I connect the +B in the diagnostics box to the GND in the diagnostics box..

ADDED: Well, my dumb ass didn't know that the thing beside the TEN connector was the battery positive (+B) and I connected it to the GND (+B to GND).. Now the lights on the dash (seatbelt, engine, etc.) dont come on when I move key to the ON position AND when I start the car, the shifter is locked (I can't press the button to move it into drive or neutral or anything, its stuck in park) and the RPM and all the other gauges don't move either.. I know I really really messed up.. Did I short the computer or something?
<*snip*>
By connecting B+ to GND, you shorted circuit 41, which is fused by the METER fuse. This one is located inside the car. It's a 15A fuse. I doubt there's any damage of any kind besides a blown fuse.

<*snip*>
I went to the diagnosis box and was going to see the code but when I tried I found that there was no wire for the TEN connector in my box. I opened it up and saw that there was no wire going into that terminal even though it was there.. My car is 95 MX6 4cyl auto, so shouldnt there be the TEN wire in there?
Nope. Your car, believe it or not, has Ford's EEC-IV for engine management. They use a different method for getting codes out. Look near the driver-side shock tower (near the battery and diagnosis box) and you'll see an oddly shapped connector with 6-holes and nothing connected to it. That's Ford's data-link connector, also known as STO (self-test out). Look closer and you'll see another connector, with just one wire (dark-blue/pink IIRC) close by: that's Ford's STI (self test in) connector. If you want to get codes, ground the STI pin, turn on the ignition and watch the CEL. I believe Ford's codes are 3-digit affairs as opposed to Mazda's 2-digit MECS codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks man.. Yea it ended up being that fuse.. I totally forgot about the driver kick panel fuses!
Also thanks for the info on my car's diagnosis testing method.. I'll be doing that soon.. Thanks again
jason
 
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