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I was wondering what the best ways to increase hp are without spending thousands. Is there a list any where with cost benefit analysis for engine upgrades for the mx6 ls?
 

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Underdrive pulley 3-5 hp
Overbored Throttle Body 5 hp
Lightweight Flywheel No hp but moves you more quickly into sweet spot of rpm range
Cold air intake 3-5 hp
Headers 7-10 hp
Muffler 1-2 hp
Cams 15-20 hp
Intake Manifold 7-9 hp
Nitrous 25-75 hp on stock motor is safe

These numbers depend on the condition of your engine, and combination of mods. They do not just add up. If you have an automatic, then I wouldn't mod it.
If you want just one mod for under $500 then I would put a 50-60 shot NOS system on it. Biggest bang for the buck of any mods. Easy to install, mileage is the same when putting around and only drops when you are pumping the NOS into the fuel system.
 

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if your looking to buy headers,cat., and a cat back exhuast I have brand new Pacesetter parts I could see you for like $500 +shiping
 

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Underdrive pulley 3-5 hp
Overbored Throttle Body 5 hp
Lightweight Flywheel No hp but moves you more quickly into sweet spot of rpm range
Cold air intake 3-5 hp
Headers 7-10 hp
Muffler 1-2 hp
Cams 15-20 hp
Intake Manifold 7-9 hp
Nitrous 25-75 hp on stock motor is safe

If you want just one mod for under $500 then I would put a 50-60 shot NOS system on it. Biggest bang for the buck of any mods. Easy to install, mileage is the same when putting around and only drops when you are pumping the NOS into the fuel system.
You are being plenty generous with you horsepower figures there.
I seriously doubt even the healthiest of KL engines would see 3-5hp from an underdrive pulley, an overbored throttlebody would help more with repsonse, and the only safe nitrous shot is NO nitrous shot.
While N2O is the best bang for buck performance mod, it is the least safe.
Doesn't matter the size of the shot or how you use the spray it's always gonna kill the engine much faster. Everytime you use it you drop miles off the life of the motor.

If you want some cheap mods go with intake, full exhaust, and port your IM. Porting it well will net you at least 10-15BHP possibly as much as 10-12hp at the wheels. Depends on your motor, the porting job, and any supporting mods.
 

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"Doesn't matter the size of the shot or how you use the spray it's always gonna kill the engine much faster. Everytime you use it you drop miles off the life of the motor."

It does matter the size of the shot. A small shot of 25, 40, 50 or even 60 hp would be safe on a stock motor. Going to a much higher hp shot would not be safe on a stock motor.
 

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Making power and using power are 2 different things too. Making power means making the engine work more efficiently so that it produces more power with less effort. That is done by improving it's ability to breathe and exhaust. Using power means taking advantage of what already exists in the vehicle. This could be by putting lighter wheels and tires on, or removing mechanical belt driven components and replacing them with electrical pieces. Even something free like removing the interior and other excess weight will help this, but often is overkill in street cars. Either way, that makes it so that the engine doesn't have to work as hard to move it's mass, therefore operating more efficiently.

Everything you do to a car to improve it's performance will cost time and money. If it didn't, don't you think that the manufacturer would have done it in the first place?
 

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I agree. I added 13lb. RX7 rims last Summer with slightly smaller diameter tires than stock and I can spin the front wheels more easily than ever before.
 

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BBS 13lbs each which is about 9 pounds lower per wheel than the stock M-Edition rims.
 

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I was wondering what the best ways to increase hp are without spending thousands. Is there a list any where with cost benefit analysis for engine upgrades for the mx6 ls?

Hey Newbie2.0 That's a good question. My wife is going to kill me for spending as much money on mine as I have. Here's an honest take on what works good with these little guys... I have noticed only (if any) results with an exhaust, intake, 65mm throttlebody (Which I lost bottom end), plugs & wires, Jet Chip, High Flow Cat, ect.... The KLZE swap is nice, but after all is said and done, the results didn't out way the cost (in my opinion). The only thing that made a huge difference in performance was a 9 lbs Fidanza Flywheel. since you have the tranny open, you might as well get a stage III clutch. I ate up a stage II clutch in about one year, and I don't race. Believe it or not, the only other performance mod that made decent inprovements were the Phenalic Spacers from "Outlaw Performance". I live in California and cannot find a CARB approved header, But I have bolted on anything short of a header and boost.

Just a FLYWHEEL and PHENO SPACERS. The valve springs and retainers are weak point of the Mazda K-Series. You can lesson any worries about this by using 10/50w synthetic blend and keeping your valves clean. Cleaning your EGR Valve out with keep more gunk out and keep the annoying check engine light away.

Handling was pretty cheap, too. The MX-6 inherently handles well and has minimal torqur steer. If you want to work on handling and don't want to spend a lot, get some Eibach Springs 1.8" lower and they are a progressive spring rate so your car doesn't feel like a truck over bumbs. Sticky tires are cheap if you shop around. I like Yokohamas, Kuhmos, and Bridgestones.

if you have a friend that can help you with the clutch and the flywheel, you should only be out about $1,200 or $1,300 to do all of these. Have fun, You'll be spanking Hondas in no time :)

Oh, one mistake I made was getting rid of the factory rims and grabbed some Probe GT rim. They look beautiful, but they are heavier than the stock rims. Since the wheels are rotational mass, they took some of my excelleration away. If I had to do it again, I'd grab a set of the 3rd Generation RX7 alloys. They're very light and look nice on our cars. I just don't want you to waste as much money as I have.
 

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About how much can you get those RX7 rims for?
I'm not sure, but I got my probe GT rims (With Chrome) for $600.00 (Full Set)
I'd just check through Google, Ebay, and Amazon. You'll find them. I just wish I had gotten those instead, my rims look awsome, but they're 26 lbs each. That's about twice as heavy as the RX7 rims.

I am having some Paeco valve springs, retainers, and keepers installed. I'll give you some feedback on the results of that. Oh... one thing I love is the short throw shifter with the polyurathane bushings. It's not really a performance advantage other than making it slightly easier to match the revs with the 5 speed, but I like the solid Snick, Snick feel of the shifter.

Anyways, if you just change the clutch, flywheel, and add pheno spacers, you'll be amazed. I wasted money so other folks don't have to.
 

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Oh..... I'm thinking about trying some cheap things that I can do myself like knife edging the intake manifold and wrapping the exhaust manifold with a thermal shield. The later is supposed to be a 2 for one. Lowering the under the hoof temperature while increasing the scavenging effect of the exhaust. I guess only time will tell though. I love my little clunker... getting her painted soon :)
 

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I agree with the lightened flywheel response, if you don't have the cash for a fidanza an alternative is to get an mx3 flywheel and have it lightened at a machine shop. Cost me about $60 for an mx3 flywheel and $50 to have it lightened, came in at a little under 15 lbs and made a noticable difference. Make sure you invest in a good clutch, many ppl here, including me have the southbend stage 2 TZ and are very happy with it.
 

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I haven't tried the underdrive pulleys yet. Do they Make a difference? I heard you had to do some grinding on the timing cover or something to make them fit. I haven't tried the Walbro 255 because I'm N/A. Would it help at all?
 

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i deleted the timing belt cover and just zip tied the crank sensor up the dip stick. sure makes checking belts easy and with a good anno job would be pretty.

Projects to come thats cheap:
Fidanza fly
Clutchmaster stg 3
Short throw shifter and good bushings. (donno bout poly, they are hella expensive)
delete air conditioner
coil pack over disty
new plug wires
try to figure out how to bore out the throttlebody and intake manny myself.

That should be less than a grand there.

Thats as far as i'm going to go until its turbo time in a few months.


turbo, pistons forged and ringed, big brake kit, megasquirt, IC, T timer and heat wrap everything, oh and a set of TSW Fly 17x7 5x114.7(17 lbs) alloys in the works.
Thats the dream from 6 months from now anyways. Stick to the basics, the rest comes with money and time....lots of time...lots of money...

addiction is bad..
 

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You can lesson any worries about this by using 10/50w synthetic blend and keeping your valves clean. Cleaning your EGR Valve out with keep more gunk out and keep the annoying check engine light away.
5w30 Mobil 1. Only and ever. Keeps the car quiet and its the best oil u can put in it! Its about 48$ for 4.4L but i'll never go back to anything. Its the best synthetic out there for our rides.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well, it looks like im going to buy some new wheels, and afterwards it im probably going to have about $600 to spend what do you think I should use it for? I already have a CAI.
 

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I have recently started using my wife's old Road car as a club car. It is a 92 2000 v6 and goes quite well. I have fitted 3rd gen RX7 wheels which need 3mm spacers on the back to stop tyre rub on the shock towers fitted with 225x40 profile toyo 888. it corners pretty well and brakes aren't an issue. The exhaust is straight thru with the centre of the cat knocked out. The air box has been removed and all the emissions equipment removed. On road tyres with 267000kms on the clock it did a 15:43 standing quarter. Pretty good I thought for a car with such high mileage. Tricky.
 
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