Mazda MX-6 Forum banner
1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,479 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The plan was to sand blast everything and coat it afterwards but I ran out of storage space in my sandblast cabinet and the stuff I buried in buckets of sand where starting to rust.

The color is KromeZone base with Jollipop red transparent/candy, still require clear coat.

Chrome base
13734


Jollipop red
13735


13736


13737



The choices for the rims are:

Crazy Chameleon with clear



I have tested the crazy chameleon, I looks much better than the picture above, in direct light straight on it's blue and in shade and at angles it's deep purple, and whoever coated this rim could have done a better job and should have taped the lug nut mounting points (powder coat will crack under the pressure of nuts and bolts this can cause leaks between flanges and lugg nuts to loosen).

Dormant Blue with clear (Of course):


Should be delivered and tested Friday.

The rims are 96-97 probe GT 7x16 40 offset directional 5 spoke swirly's with 88 gt Mazda center caps, I tossed the ford center caps many years ago when I got the rims and they don't look right without them, the tires are new 225/50 16, I have sets of 17" rims but no tires, the other choices where 2001 626 16" rims or Mazda 3 16" rims but both are 6.5" wide (no good for 225's) and worse offsets for the 88 F2. I tried some 88gt center caps last week and they fit so I don't feel so bad running the probe rims on this build.
 

·
Registered
1992, Mazda MX-6 2.5L V6
Joined
·
88 Posts
Wow! I'm really excited for your build dude! I can't wait to see more and follow its progress.

Umm I think i'm going to need you to buy a MX-6 gen 2... err just so I can live vicariously through you. hahaha

I like the first rims more.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,479 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Wow! I'm really excited for your build dude! I can't wait to see more and follow its progress.

Umm I think i'm going to need you to buy a MX-6 gen 2... err just so I can live vicariously through you. hahaha

I like the first rims more.
I am excited about it to but also worried, this country's mentality is conservative and complacent, cars handle better and are safer than ever but people drive slower than ever... From 2006-2011 driving the MX6GT there where many occasions that people called the cops. Then a few years later I build the 626GT, light body rust, goldish color, no window tints and burgundy interior, the car was much faster than the MX6 and 0 complaints, no police harassment... It's like the tesla vs hellcat test, they drove the hellcat down streets at and below the speed limit and it got dirty looks, they drove the tesla down the same streets at twice the speed limit and no one cared.

_
HYDRODIPPING
For the rims, when I looked up info on the 40pounds of powder coat I have stored I came across Hydrographic film dipping and decided that's what I would do to the rims, looks easy and isn't expensive. Yes those that do hydrodipping claim it isn't easy but so did many of the tradesmen who's jobs I have done, had to learn black iron pipe threading, TIG welding and silfos brazing/ using oxy acetylene... on job sites in front of engineers and federal building management (I watched a video of course) but I could visualize all the steps and although I was doing these things for the first time to me it felt like I had done it before.

Hydrographic film dipping:
-Clean, sand and de-grease part.
-Paint the part in the basecoat color of your choice and cure (prime first when required).
-Lightly scuff basecoat and tape areas not to be coated.
-The dip tank water must be between 87-93* F (depending on activator and film instructions/type the temperature varies, the hotter the water is the faster the film reacts).
-The area the film will sit in the water must be boxed in with tape or dividers so the film doesn't spread out in the water.
- The film must be put in the water with the correct side down (wet index and thumb and pinch both sides of the film, the side that sticks to your finger goes down on the water).
-Lay the film out in the water, avoid wrinkles, creases and air pockets (some put masking tape on the edges of the film to minimize creasing). Some types of film/activator will require film soak time before applying the activator and short activator reaction others have short soak time and longer activator reactions... follow manufacturers instructions.
-Spray activator over the surface of the film evenly and consistently.
-Activator and film are ready for dipping within 60 seconds, this varies depending on the activator and film being used (Carnage test: cut a long strip of film off the edge of the sheet, lay it in the water tank, activate it, at the 30 second mark start dipping a long piece of pipe and progressively dip it over the next 30seconds, inspect the piece and determine the best wait time before dipping. Vary test window times to match manufacturers parameters).
-Dip the part in a progressive, steady, even manner at an angle that will minimize the forming of air pockets on the ridges, lips and recesses of the part.
-Once the surface is completely submerged in the film push the part deeper in the water so the remaining film float past the dipped areas and wiggle the part to cut off the unused film.
-Rinse part with 100* F water for 10 minutes.
-Allow part to dry completely.
-Clear coat the Hydrodipped part.
----------------------------
Tank:
For DIY hydrodipping anything that can hold water and is big enough and deep enough to dip the desired parts can be a dip tank, a big tote/storage bin, a barrel, a bucket, a bath tub (not recommended)... Preferably black.
Fill the container with water and put in direct sunlight, on a day that's a couple degrees below top dipping temperature let the container/water heat in the sun until it is at a usable temperature and dip all your parts.
For a permanent set up, a filtration system (manual like a pool skimmer or inline before the water pump) will be required. a water pump (like a cheap fountain pump...) a water heating system (electric or even solar using black water tubing laid out in the sun/ requires larger pump), a pool thermostat or any submersible T-stat .
-----------------------------

I have all kinds of stainless braided lines, threaded pipes, ball valve and fittings. New stainless shelves I can weld into a tank, many heavy duty swivel casters ... Filtration will be gravity fed (valve on the bottom side of the tank flowing into a filter and catch container. The pump would normally recirculate water through heater and the tank but would have a second supply hose from the filter catch container and a ball valve on both supply hoses. After dipping, close the recirculating hose to the pump, open the catch container hose, open the tank drain valve, turn on the pump and filter the water. When not in use the pump will recirculate on a timer and run X minutes every X hours to keep the water from getting stagnant. Before dipping the pump and heater will be on until desired temperature is reached.

I was thinking blue lightning or blue flames on black background because I can't find any of these patterns on hydrographic film :






Yes I would put one of these on a set of rims and I would have them printed so the the front and rear wheels are reversed from each other and both fronts are mirrored and both rears are mirrored, because the Probe rims are directional no two rims would actually be the same. I bet people who stare at the wheels while the cars rolling slowly would get dizzy or puke or get hypnotized or have a seizure... if only I could make the face of the rear rims spin backwards.
_

Then I saw the crazy chameleon powder coat and decided I want the car on the road before I build the Hydro dip tank. I will hydrodip some interior parts after I build the tank (All the black plastic parts: cluster bezel, climate control/radio bezel, ash tray face, the useless coin tray in front of the shifter and the middle tray under the center elbow rest and maybe the black insert in the glove box).

Like I said it looks better on my test panel than the rim in the picture but it is a very coarse looking powder coat close up, it's full of black dots at one angle and bright sparkles at another (required to give the dual color and all the hues between) and although the crazy chameleon when on smooth and flush and the clear glossed it up even more up close the crazy chameleon looks like it has the texture of 400 grit sandpaper.

The clear coat on the drivers side rims is pealing but both passenger rims are still smooth and glossy and I think the rims might look better with a slick wet finish than a coarse gritty finish.

When I powder coated last (many years ago) there where dormant colors for sale but where solids (blacks, red, yellows...), dormant colors go on clear and appear only once clear coated, I never bothered with the dormant colors but the dormant Blue (blue/ purple look) I ordered is more of a candy/translucent blue and if my hunch is correct it will have depth with no bottom (base coat) without being able to see the rim under it, it should be like looking into jello, it should have the same depth as doing a house of color paint job using blue base coat and then candy blue transparent paint and a 20 coat/wet sand candy blue tinted clear fade (less in every coat) and 3 coats of clear and then a professional polish or that's the depth I'm expecting.
Added bonus is if I can outdo the guy who painted the car Utrasonic blue tricoat (blue to purple hue) with more depth and gloss than he achieve but that doesn't take away from the car it will drive him nuts.

Will know tomorrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,479 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Update.
The dormant blue had the depth and finish I expected but is more of a deep purple than blue and the more clear that's added the darker it becomes.
Somehow it shows up blueis in pictures but it's dark purple.
13742


13743


Because it changes hue with the amount of clear used it would need an even coat to maintain a consistent color and because I like to use a lot of clear I decided to coat the rims in crazy chameleon.

I don't know what they coated these ford probe rims in at the factory but it is the most durable coating shy of POR 15, ceramic or powder coat, sandblasting bearly removes it, I had to use gel based paint stripper and wire wheels on drills to remove the coating from the rim and then sandblast it.

I only removed one tire from the rims, I will have the other 3 removed tomorrow.

I made a stand to stand the rim on in the oven using 3 factory wheel studs and some random junk metal because of the way the lip is on the rims I can't rest the back side on the oven rack and the oven is to small to hang the rims in.

Crazy Chameleon on a ford probe rim, no clear yet:
13744


Of course I failed at getting a good picture of the true color.

13745


13746


The finish is better than the rim pictured in the first post and while this rim was outside sitting on a work bench (to cool off) it had plenty of purple angles, but the way it's tipped forward hanging in the booth and with the flash it only looks blue.

This was the first one and the worst one, they all have curb rash on the front lip but this one had a big dent in the lip, I had to heat it and beat it back into place then sand the hammer marks out with a flap wheel and sand the curb rash down with an automotive sander.

The tires I was running sit passed the edge of these rims and have no curb rash on them, I can't remember ever rubbing the curb with the last 88 626GT, the 88-92 F2 cars have the front wheels at the firewall, this sucks for handling, weight distribution and front end dive (can be fixed with proper suspension) but make parking close to a curb very easy.

Only three more rims to strip to bare metal, clean, heat cycle, tape and powder coat. Now I remember whey I wanted to paint and Hydrodip the rims for this car to begin with.

They say nothing worthwhile is easy and nothing easy is worthwhile but this one rim took 10 hours so far, I have purchased better paint stripping products and fresh sand for the sandblaster, if I am lucky I will get the other three rims to bare metal in 15hours, and probably another 9 to out gas, clean, tape, do two coats of powdercoat...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Mr. Carnage Sir how's it going!
Everything's looking good!, but what else would anyone expect from you eh!
Can you beef up my Mx6 transmission too?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,479 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Mr. Carnage Sir how's it going!
Everything's looking good!, but what else would anyone expect from you eh!
Can you beef up my Mx6 transmission too?
Thank you.

However I don't like the Axalta Diamond Dust high gloss smooth clear coat from Emerald Coatings I purchased recently, i tried using some of the old stuff I had (super durable crystal clear and lapis illusion clear) on some test panels but they have gotten clumpy and don't melt and blend properly. The Axalta Diamond Dust cleat does not shoot nicely on the parts, before clear coating the ford probe rim I added a 6gauge ground/earth wire to the powder coat booth that runs to the earth/ground of the buildings wiring (most powder coaters drive an 8foot grounding rod into the shop floor and ground directly to that) .
After coating the rim in powder it looked so bad I blew all the powder off and started again, it looked just as bad the second time, I was tempted to clean it again and apply powder a 3rd time but decided enough is enough and I threw it in the oven.
It melted and flowed but has some orange peel. This clear is also no good for hot coating, it cures like dust on the part before going in the oven and doesn't flow out afterwards. (Hot coating is coating the part hot so the powder sticks because after several coats the plastic build up is to thick for the part and powder to build up proper magnetic charge). With the Powder By the Pound brand powder I could hot coat every layer of powder coat including Candys, translucents, illusions, Glow in the darks and additives with perfect and consistent results.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If it's an F2T transmission I can weld the differential shaft and clean and free up the gear assemblies so shifting is smoother with less load on the gear assemblies during shifts.
If it's an F2 transmission the same can be done or I can sell you an F2T transmission, bolts, flywheel, clutch assembly, 3 transmission mounts, CV-joints, half shaft, wheel hubbs and shifter assembly at a low price. You would need to purchase a slave cylinder for the clutch. Just press out the N/A hubbs from the spindle bearings and press in the GT hubbs, everything else just bolts up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
One step forward, two steps back eh!
Sounds just like life lol!
My paint knowlegle is limited to the model cars and planes I painted as a kid, and cans of spraypaint for bikes and the occasional rental car bumper! (Which may not have worked out successfully, even with the extra gloss coat lol!)
For rims though, and this may be lame and obviously just my opinion, but the truth is nothing touches black. I've never seen a color that I felt looked better than black.
You know what I like the look of, have you seen that tire commercial recently with the glowing all white cartoon tires?
I thought maybe if you could put some UV sparkes or something into black paint so you could turn on a led light and then the rims would glow white like those cartoon tires, that may be pretty cool! Or pretty stupid lol!

I have an LSD in there now but lost the bottom gears so gotta take it out.
I bought the normal G5M I believe it is, that they all come with from factory.
By the time Im out of 3rd shes at 120 so I need my second gear back big time!
How far are you from Toronto if thats allowed to be asked lol!
I tried for over an hour to send you a message but I couldnt so then I gave up but luckily it let me post here.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,479 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
One step forward, two steps back eh!
Sounds just like life lol!
My paint knowlegle is limited to the model cars and planes I painted as a kid, and cans of spraypaint for bikes and the occasional rental car bumper! (Which may not have worked out successfully, even with the extra gloss coat lol!)
For rims though, and this may be lame and obviously just my opinion, but the truth is nothing touches black. I've never seen a color that I felt looked better than black.
You know what I like the look of, have you seen that tire commercial recently with the glowing all white cartoon tires?
I thought maybe if you could put some UV sparkes or something into black paint so you could turn on a led light and then the rims would glow white like those cartoon tires, that may be pretty cool! Or pretty stupid lol!

I have an LSD in there now but lost the bottom gears so gotta take it out.
I bought the normal G5M I believe it is, that they all come with from factory.
By the time Im out of 3rd shes at 120 so I need my second gear back big time!
How far are you from Toronto if thats allowed to be asked lol!
I tried for over an hour to send you a message but I couldnt so then I gave up but luckily it let me post here.
Powder coat is different than paint in that is applied as a magnetic dust on the part and then baked in an oven. Before the part is baked removing powder coat just requires an air gun, Once it's baked on it's there to stay. Powder coat can be wet sanded and polished the same way automotive paint can be.

I agree black rims look good but it depends on the rims design, some rims can easily be made to look like black steel winter rims, powder coating would be a lot of work to make the rims "disappear".
Unfortunately glow in the dark additives don't show up well over dark base colors.
Originally I was thinking white rims would look good with the Utrasonic blue paint job on the car, then I found Glowbee clear powdercoat:


But Glowbee tints the base coat and glow in the dark rims would probably just attract the cops.
Besides these Probe rims don't have any dish, the bolt holes are 2" to 2.5" deep, the face of the rim could have been moved in that amount but no they had to put it right at the lip of the rim. This might offend some but I hate no loath new rims (and new cars) the way the face is all the way out at the lip of the rim.

The farther in the face is, the better a rim looks to me or the more "muscle car style" it has and less modern paper disposable junk look.
This is an okay face position (ugly rim).:


And this to me looks stupid and awful because of the face position:

It puts all the rubber behind the face of the rim, giving the rim center stage and the tire a back ground position even though tires are more important than rims...

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

For the transmission.
You have an LSD in your transmission and have lost bottom gears (I assume 1st and 2nd), if you are still driving the car than I will also assume it's a shift assembly or synchros or ... issue and you didn't shred the teeth of 1st and 2nd or you'd hear lots of grinding and loose the other gears and LSD pretty quick.
This is the unclear part:
I bought the normal G5M I believe it is, that they all come with from factory.
Is that the transmission with the LSD or you bought a replacement transmission.
(I will assume because it's a G5M you have a 2nd gen MX6).
So realistically you just need to pull the Diff out of your old transmission and install it and the bearing risers and shims in the new transmission, and clean the gear assemblies, locktite the shift gate and inner mounting bolts...

I am in Gatineau/Aylmer just across from Ottawa.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Yeah Ive seen them do powder coating on many tv car and bike shows, hydro dipping too!
Like always you make many good points. There is no point to making the rims disappear. I hate that that winter steel rim look no matter what, in any circumstance, so that doesnt even enter my mind to be honest lol, but that picture you put with the Globee white rim is EXACTLY what I was thinking in my head lol!
I think it would look real good on an electric blue car, like the Subaruuu! I see them all the time with different rims and also with the ones you dont like that the face pops out lol!
Neon colors with that rim design seems to be popular lol!
In my experience Karma attracts those guys more than anything else. Like if youre up to no good theyre up your arse all, but if you dont cause heat they seem to roll on by and not break balls. Black rims would look awesome on the blue as well!

Yes shes a 96 so second gen. I lost 2nd 4th and reverse. Yup she still goes until something, smelled like a wire burned in or under the engine and now she wont start so I have to tow her to the shop.
No way I can do any of that, I read your other posts about doing stuff and YOU know how to do it. I dont have even probably 1% of what you have as far as automotive knowlege so Im not touching anything lol!
The LSD is in there now driving with the missing gears but other than that with no problems. The G5M I just bought from a guy and am planning on doing a simple swap of transmissions.
Then take the LSD to someone to rebuild, no rush, so I have it on standby.

Heres my rims, but they came with my girl!
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,479 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
13755
 
  • Like
Reactions: juanpac_tupac

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,479 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
13767


13768


13769


13770
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top