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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Finally finished powder coating the last batch of parts.
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Whipper arm springs are damn stiff, I had to insert washers between each spring coil and run a piece of coat hanger wire through the center of the spring and washers to stretch them out enough to remove them.

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I coated a gt coil bracket and an N/A coil bracket so I can run factory or msd ignition.

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Taping the intake manifolds and fuel rail took about 4 hours Tuesday.
The lower intake manifold has a lot of tig welding covered in JB weld, so I had to hot coat the chrome base but the powder coat stuck and cured properly over the JB weld.
(Side note: runners 2 and 3 have JB weld inside them, it held up perfectly to fuel, methanol and boost. Although jb weld lives up to none of its claims doesn't repair engine blocks, isn't machineble, can't glue anything.
It holds up to gas, coolant oil and alcohol really well and if applied properly can seal oil pans, intercooler, intake leaks, and seal threads of leaking fittings of fuel rails, not fitting and poorly threaded holes. Using jb weld on threaded fittings = permanent installation).
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Ported beyond its dimensions.


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Originally I wanted to put a Carnage face (eyes and teeth) on the upper intake manifold but after drawing it out and cutting it out I measured the space from the PCV nipple to top backside, my drawing was 2" taller than the space, to scale it down would have made it to narrow/small.
To add the writing or face to the powdercoat I used mat black high temperature spray paint and masking tape over the chrome powder coat, I tested spray paint over chrome with translucent colors over them but never tested masking tape on chrome, got lucky chromes and silvers are delicate and need topcoats, they are easily stained, tainted or screwed up.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
The 626gt ran a mildly modified throttle body, its ported and I cut away the upper half of the throttle flap shafts and shortened the mounting screws.
I decided to use one of the two heavily customized throttle body's I have. They are 5speed throttle body's but the upper butterfly holes have been ported to fit upper automatic butterfly flaps and shafts.
One TB is powdercoated blue, the other was cleaned and clear coated but the clear coat peeled away and the TB was cover in corrosion, so I decided to powder coat it, the factory throttle body has a lot of pieces clips, levers, springs, washers, spacers bolts, nuts... 50 pieces (including the thermospacer and extra gasket for the iac).

I completely disassembled the throttle body, I cleaned the idle control valve and clear coated it (they don't seem to survive 400*F powder coating). I sand blasted every nut, bolt and screw and spring and blackened them. The lever assembly got sand blasted and painted black with high temperature clear.
I used m10 bolts, washers, nuts and strips of wet rag to isolate the four bearings in the throttle body and protect them from sand blasting. Outgassed, taped and powder coated the throttle body housing.

This was more work than any other part I've powdercoated, it took me over 9 hours to remove, disassemble, powdercoat a tiny surface and reassemble the throttle body.

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The old 626gt throttle body is the lower one.
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The dual large flap TB looks smaller, just the camera angle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
After doing some math both throttle body's are very close in area.
The factory tb has 1 40mm flap and 1 46mm flap. After subtracting the shaft area the opened area is 205.85395mm squared
The center shaft is 10mm thick and the flap is 2mm thick.

The dual large flap TB has 2 46mm flaps and after subtracting the shaft are the opening is 240.3805mm squared.

The cut shaft throttle body has 4mm more opening on each shaft, the 40mm has 16mm squared increase and the 46mm has 18.4mm squared increase in area its total area is 240.25895mm squared.

Suddenly all the work I put in to the dual large flap TBs seems pointless compared to the 30 minutes it took to cut away half the butterfly rods.

If I decide to cut the upper half of the shafts on the dual large flap TB the area would be 277.1805mm squared.
A 65mm single flap TB wit 10mm shaft has a flow area of 266.8307mm squared.
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
Polished 4 88gt injectors and clear coated them, wire brushed the egr valve and cleared it. Cleaned/sandblasted, blackened and cleared or cleared every nut and bolt, most assembled with loctite red.

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Some progress and some headaches.
Decided to powdercoat the turbo compressor housing.
It decided to outgass on its first coat.
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The next day I sanded it down, outgassed it again an taped it.
Hot coated it, chrome went on perfectly, candy red whent on well but didn't cover everywhere, I got it up to temp again and coated those spots (when hot coating with this powder it has to melt during application, if the part cools to much any powder that doesn't melt during coating cures that way and won't melt in the oven) the candy red dusted, the clear went on okay and I accepted the results until I saw the back side of the outlet neck, it was sanded chrome, some chrome, some red and some clear it looked horrible and already had 4coats on it the 400* powdercoat tapes is melting on large openings so I cut a block off plate for the inlet and cut a circular piece of metal to cover the back opening and baked lying down.
This time I put a bolt through both block off plates taped it and coated it hanging.
The tape covering the back side melted on the edges, I managed to tape it again at 400* temp during the process but that melted to so I just shaved and sander the powder coat off the backside.
It turned out okay for 7 coats of powder.
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The heat shield is coated in Por20 high temp brilliant aluminum paint good for 1400*f.
The can was never opened but 10years old, It took 20 minutes to stir properly and smelled horrible, like 50 year old varsol, creosote and rotten vegetables.
Coated it on Saturday outside, stirred the paint and sealed the can outside the shop still smells.
It left brush strokes and didn't auto level like regular Por15, I decided the wastegate could keep the brush strokes and tried curring it Monday in the oven, the paint blistered and bubbled.
It was sandblasted and degreased.
I will clean it and probably powdercoat it (worried about baking it).

Will try curing the heatshields with a heat gun instead of the oven.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
More headaches, was going to pull the power steering lines off the pump and put them on the new motor but they are pretty rusty, one of the lines going to the rack has rusted right through so I pulled all the lines off another car. They are clean but have some rust near the rack, I disassembled all the lines and brought them home to clean them with degreaser and hot water in the basement sink. Once dgreased I will scuff them with sandpaper, spray them down with acetone and coat them in Por15 so these ones don't rust.
There are 8 retaining brackets, the upper one is already powdercoated red, the other 7 have been sandblasted and are ready for powdercoat, want to do them red but I also want to keep the red because I am not digging the valve cover it was powdercoated more than 14 years ago in translucent red with red sparkly additive in the clear, my shop partner put it in the landlords glass counter and it spent years exposed to light and sun and faded to pinkish red, the other parts I powdercoated that color got wrapped in bubble wrap and sat in a box, the still look good and look close to the Jollipop red I'm using now.

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Far left valve cover.
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Sandblasted the wastegate again decided to clean it on the wire brush, polish it and clear coat it in VHT despite the rust pitting.
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Didn't want to risk damaging it in the oven, and this project has to get completed soon.

Ran out of Eastwood diamond clear satin dtm bolt paint, Eastwood wants 50$ shipping for one 11$ can, I will have to find an alternative spray paint and hope it spays on thin and doesn't stop off while tightening nuts and bolts.
Eastwood diamond clear works pretty well, I have been blackening the entire bolt and nuts, even two coats of diamond clear the bolts and nuts screw in by hand, some engine bolts have been installed and removed several times and the paint on the bolt heads held up.

Although there is a bucket load of bolts still to clean and blacken, there are very few things left that aren't addressed, but the weather is changing so the race is on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 · (Edited)
Power steering lines, hoses, rubber bushings and clamps cleaned.
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Lines sandblasted:
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Painted:
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Line brackets powdercoated:
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God I wish I had a factory manual rack&pinion, I have two power racks converted to manual but they are too stiff for the grant steering wheel hub adapters and the columb chews away at the hub's knurls, I cut the hub out of a factory wheel so I can make an adapter for the mx6gt but I still haven't figured out the horn ring on the back of the hubb, perhaps PL construction adhesive might work, over the years I have tried hundreds of different glues and adhesives, none have worked properly, I have watched comparisons on the internet where they test a dozen or so adhesives and rate them on the torque required to cause the glue to fail. Unless the adhesive is stronger than what it glues it's a fail, if I glue a bolt to a 16 gauge stainless top table i want to see the stainless buckle when prying on the bolt and the bolt bend when hammering it.
I will not trust a grant hubb adapter on a manual rack, can't afford steering issues at any speed.
If I had a definite plan for a functioning hubb adapter it would have built that instead of all the work the pump and lines have taken, the space they take and unclean the look in the engine bay.
Perhaps some day I will install an electric pump in the bumper and run stainless lines through the front passenger wheel well.

This is all the result of hating rust and committing to a project, anything I decide to do has to be reliable, durable and done to the best of my abilities with the resources at hand,.
If you don't live in the south don't get into cars.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 · (Edited)
What a pain in the ass power steering lines have been. Getting them lined up and bracketed was a headache.

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The power steering pulley had a wobble, disassembled everything, checked the pulley and it's true, put the pump in a vice and it's true, pulled another pulley sandblasted it and powder coated it, this one has a tiny wobble but I installed it anyway, options are to powdercoat another pump or swap all the parts in the powdercoated pump housing if it's a problem.
The wastegate wouldn't fit into it's bracket because of all the powdercoat on the comp housing, had to file down the welded flange on the back of the wastegate and beat the actuator body with a hammer (didn't want to sand the powdercoat in case I decide to run an external wastegate some day.

Cleaned the manifold gasket/heald , installed the turbo and it's hoses, to check dipstick clearance I tried the o2 housing/downpipe it wouldn't clear the power steering pump bracket which is why I cut a section out on the rusted 626, so I cut the power steering bracket.
I wanted to install the power steering belt but had to install the alternator belt, it no longer fit because of the unorthodox racing under drive pulley, I had to modify the alternator bracket for this pulley on my 88 mx6gt but the same ur racing pulley that's on my 89 mx6 gt fits the belt?
I cut the adjustment bracket bolt slider as far as it could be cut but it still wasn't far enough, I could grind out the mounting bolt hole but that adds a fail point, added 2 1/16" stainless steel washers (6 total) between the alternator lower mounting bracket and engine block moving the alternator 1/8" out and allowing the belt to achieve tension with 1/4" more travel available on the tensioner:

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All that's left is to install the knock sensor, oil pressure switch, small coolant hoses for the oil cooler and idle control valve and one rubber fuel hose and the engine is completely assembled.
Assembled by hand in a dust filled environment.

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Unavailable Products reviews of unnecessary shit I'm putting on this car:

- outlaw engineering thermo spacers (have 2 sets):
Pros- ?
Cons- every single bracket that bolts to the intake manifold has to be modified to fit with the spacers they double the number of gaskets required.
The egr pipe no longer fits.
Strut tower bars wont clear the intake.
The charge pipe is moved closer to the brake master and less room to work between the engine and fire wall.
The longer studs for the throttle body are I'll machined and have to be tapped to m8x125 to thread into the intake.
Even if installation didn't require all the work above it is still a lot of work.

-UR racing underdrive pulley (have 2):
Pros: it's aluminum and lightens the crank assembly, it has a smaller circumference and underdrives the alternator that powers the injectors,spark and entire car and the power steering system that controls your steering adding a few horsepower.

Cons: it under drives the alternator and ps the alternator belt no longer fits.
It is I'll machined and requires porting to to fit over the crank.
It has no harmonic balancer.
The factory mounting bolts don't clear the edge of the inner pulley and groove into it.

-Fidanza aluminum flywheel (have 1)

Pros: it actually fits properly, a direct bolt on. It lightens the rotating assembly freeing up a few horsepower.
Cons: it is a big job to install, it is quite expensive and I never noticed much difference between it and a tightened factory flywheel.

-AWR polyurethane trailing links (have 3 sets):
Pros: direct bolt on. Replaces worn, tired old trailing links. Not too difficult to instal. Reasonable price.
Cons: No noticeable performance improvement over stock on their own, perhaps when combined with upgraded trailing arms, sway bars, link kits, struts and coils but how to tell?
The studs that hold the hand brake cable are bare, untreated metal and rust quickly.

AWR polyurethane 97A motor mounts (have 3 sets):
Pros: good price, easy install, keep the engine from moving, when sitting idling rattles the mirrors causing a blurred view through the mirrors making it seem like the car is going fast all the time.

Cons: Require drilling holes in the bushings to allow a tiny amount of deflection and a bit of engine vibration doesn't get carried to the cars body. Will loosen every bolt and nut on the car that's not painted in (door hinges, fenders, hood ... bolts), requires loctite on every bolt.
Possibly work in conjunction with the aluminum flywheel and aluminum pulley to unbalance the crankshaft and kill the bearings.


Why install all these stupid parts even though the old 626 gt preformed perfectly without them but I decided 2 builds are more than ambitious enough so the collection of performance parts get divided by two.
A decision I may regret.
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
The reason for all this powdercoat, Por15 and bolt coating is the last 626 went from clean parts and no rust to this in 5 years:
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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Finally started installing parts in the 666 engine bay and the weather turns to rain.
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Yes I need to wash the engine bay, I have several pressure washers but the buildings garden hose has disappeared so I have to bring one to the garage.
Even installing parts on the car is a slow process, after deciding what to put on the car I have to find the right nuts and bolts, clean them (sandblast or wire wheel), degrease them, blacken them, rinse them, dry them, wipe them down, clear them, let them dry then install them...
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
double post
 
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