[warrlock2000]

Greetings!

I tried a search, couldn't find much detail, so here goes...

My '91 MX-6 GT driver's power window only goes down to about 6" left (exposed) and then stops. Upon further investigation, I realised that the little button in the track (put new one in my '89 GT, R.I.P.) is not holding the window in tight. I remember when I replaced the other one, there was an Allen key slot in the back screw that holds the bastard in there. Also, the rubber track that the window slides against is a bit chewed with some pieces gone (not adding to the smooth slide-action!)

Questions: How do you access this Allen key? Guy at the dealer said grab the nice, new-looking black side that faces the outside with some needle-nosers and tighten it that way! Not fond of scratching the s*** out of something I just paid $18.00 CDN for! ALSO: Is it possible to replace that rubber piece at the rear-end of the window? If so, how?

All comments appreciated!

warrlock2000

 

[magik8]

The proper way to install the glass guides is to remove the window from the door, remove the old guide from the window, and use a type of epoxy/glue to hold the base of the guide into the window, and then tighten the torx head nut after the glue is dry. (This technique is outlined in the Mazda Factory Workshop manual.)

As for the rubber track, you can indeed replace it. But a temporary solution is to grease the heck out of the front and rear tracks along with the window regulator bead track with some lithium or bearing grease. This should help considerably. If the window regulator is clicking while the window is being lowered the regulator is likely damaged.

The power window regulators are not very well designed on this car; I paid $300US for a new regulator/motor assembly and the window still takes about 5 seconds to go up or down.

 

[warrlock2000]

Tips on getting the window/ track out?

Greetings!

Good ol' magik8...where can I get one of those manuals? All I could find up here is the Haynes repair manual, and the "GT" is only covered in the "supplement" section in the back...not a lot of help, always saying to leave some repairs to a qualified mechanic or the dealer...

Anyway, back to the point...I'm familiar with removing the door skin, been in there trying to find a location for some 8" or 6" mid-bass drivers (major customizing needed...not a lot of room) and numerous attempts to remedy this problem...already greased the hell out of it with lithium grease...still binding...I have replaced numerous side windows in the Chevettes that my ex-wife and I have been through...slam the door, the side window ends up in pieces on your lap! It was tricky, buy I've done around 10 of them...

Can you give me a rough idea how to tackle extracting the window? Does the track come out with the window? You mentioned to epoxy the button, then tighten the Allen-head screw after it dries...epoxy the button to the window glass? BTW, that rubber needs to be replaced, the gash is about 4 inches long and growing...

Thanx again,

warrlock2000

 

[linoleum]

Re: Tips on getting the window/ track out?

Good ol' magik8...where can I get one of those manuals? All I could find up here is the Haynes repair manual, and the "GT" is only covered in the "supplement" section in the back...not a lot of help, always saying to leave some repairs to a qualified mechanic or the dealer...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2439915600&category=34226

happy bidding warrlock!

 

[magik8]

As for the manual, as linoleum posted, they are often found on ebay. I would try my best to get a 90-92 one though for your 91GT as the 88-89s do have differences (especially in the electrical wiring).

To remove the window, you first need to remove the door mirror and what is called the "beltline molding", which is the trim piece at the bottom of the window sill on the exterior. (There is a screw at the end of the door and clips holding it on) When this molding and the mirror is removed, you can unbolt the window from the regulator and pull the glass out. The tracks do not need to come out. I'll scan the information regarding the window button for you later tonight.

 

[warrlock2000]

Mucho Gracia!

Thanx magik8...don't know where I'd be without you....besides broke!

warrlock2000

 

[magik8]

Here are the pages from the factory manual:

Page 1
Page 2
Page 3
Page 4

 

[delta115]

Hey, hate to have to revive this thread, but instead of starting another thread on this topic, I decided it wasn't too far dead yet, so here goes... :

I made an attempt today to remove and replace my passenger side window regulator with one that I bought from a salvage yard... unfortunately, even following the directions in the factory manual (useful as it is normally), I wasn't able to remove the window glass... what's up? I unbolted the window from the regulator, and removed that belt molding, breaking all of the clips in the process...

But I still couldn't pull the glass out, as illustrated in the manual... is there something else I need to do? I didn't want to break the glass, and I couldn't see any other way besides pulling off the weather stripping and all the other molding, but I didn 't have the patience to figure out how to do all that...
And once I got the new regulator in, not all of the bolt holes lined up, and I wasn't able to adjust it, even after putting it in and taking it out three times...a pain in my ass, I have to say... those service holes are far too small... the old one seems to be bent slightly, but seeing as the reason I'm replacing it is because it's very slow as if it's dying, I didn't want to bend the new one...

Anyway, after I finally got it in, unsecure as it was (I was fed up with it anyway, so I just said the hell with it), and tested it, it went up and down even slower than the old one had... I don't suppose they could've given me a bad regulator? Seems unlikely, but I think it has something to do with my somewhat shoddy installation job, and I'm not sure what I can do to remedy the situation... I didn't even reinstall the plastic inside properly... I put it on with duct tape, and I didn't bother putting the belt molding back on...that's how fed up I was... I did remember to put the mirror back on, hehe.

But any help I can get with this situation would be appreciated... I might try greasing the tracks, but that would require me spending money to buy some grease, and in the meantime if I could get some other answers that would be helpful. Especially on how the hell I'm supposed to get the glass out, and how I can not break any more of these damn clips that I'm sure I'll have to pay excessive costs at the dealer to get new ones... Sorry for the long post, but I'm really exhasperated...

 

[delta115]

Yeah, I know I posted far too much in that last post, but while I'm at it, I might as well put out my concerns on my driver's side power window, too... it's not really all that slow (though it could be much quicker), but when it reaches the top, it acts like it's attempting to keep going, and as a result, it clicks...loudly... I feel like people are going to think I'm shooting at them with a machine gun or something... I'm guessing the window's not seated in the guides properly, but I've never opened it up to look, and it doesn't seem to be lopsided, and nothing's been done to it that would cause that...

I'm wondering if there's some sort of stop switch that stops the window when it reaches it's highest point, and if maybe that's broken or something... I just want to see what you all think before I go taking that side apart, too... Thanks.

 

[magik8]

First off, to get the door glass out of the door, you need to slide the glass down and off of the window tracks so it is loose, and then you can get it out of the door. It's a tough process but it can be done with some patience. Getting the window back on the tracks can be a bitch as well. It took me a good half hour to get my driver's side glass back on.

Also, you NEED to grease the tracks that the window slides on, as well as the regulator bead track. Go spend the $2 and grease the hell out of them. You will likely notice a difference.

If the regulator is clicking when it nears the top, it is likely damaged, and you will need to get a different one. Try greasing the assembly first though. If you're up for a project, try taking the regulator apart and see if you can find what the problem is.

 

[Illswyn]

I found my manual on ebay for about $9 shipped

Some bookstore must have had it and cleaning out their old books. Guess they didn't know what they had