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Problems turning F2 or KL mounting for RWD

2041 Views 17 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  ls six
Obviously this has been done by a couple of people over the last several years. I don't recall, and can't seem to find via searching, what issues were run again by turning the motor so the transmission faces backwards.

Specific issues could be related to oil slosh and coolant flow. I can't think of any others that would be significant, but feel free to mention any you know of.

The KL, for example, has it's oil pickup about the middle of the lowest part of the pan. Turning backwards I believe would cause the pickup to be in the front 1/3 of the pan, which I think could be too far. How does this compare to the F2 pickup location?

Pictures for illustrative purposes would be great.
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Baja Wes has done a KL swap in to Baja Bug. He would be able to tell you any oiling problems with the pick up.
On the F2 side, Mazda had a factory RWD version used in B2200 trucks.
might look at some of this guys work
Joyful Noise Racing
I could be wrong, but IIRC from pictures years ago, Baja Wes had the engine mounted with the engine facing (timing belt side) the rear of the vehicle. I would be mounting it facing the front.
On the F2 side, Mazda had a factory RWD version used in B2200 trucks.
I know this, and would plan on using a B2200 transmission in the RWD application if it went with the F2.

SAdrmmr04, extending the oil pickup tube and possibly adding a slosh wall are both things I had thought about doing. I'm not sure about the necessity of the coolant mod though. I suspect those were primarily for the space limitations on their Miata.
My take on the oiling system.

Ultimate Oil Pump Info - ProbeTalk.com Forums

Moroso Custom Oil pan and while your at it Wet sump/Vac pump, Then you don't have to ever worry about loosing vacuum in the crank case.

Moroso Custom Oil pans.

http://www.moroso.com/photo_gallery.asp

This pump has Dual pressure out ports (you can feed each side of the block), as well as a large vacuum section (you can run a Vac line from each valve cover then into a Y to the pump) and good for any amount of RPM you want to throw at it. Way higher flow them stock.

Peterson Fluid Systems : Wet Sump Pumps
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Unfortunately, I haven't been able to find a complete list what was different about the truck version, but here are some things I can confirm:

1. The oil pan is different but the gasket is the same, suggesting there's no issue bolting it on.
2. The pick-up assembly is definitely different.

I have not been able to confirm if the block is different or not.
Thanks Matt for your investigation. I think that your #2 will require #1.
Another issue would be the distributor and intake, as both of them would be up against/through the firewall.
When you don't have a distributor, it's not an issue. ;)
I'm sure an intake from the B2200 would work, since the TB sits over the valve cover.
And the KL is a good idea to use the Millenia curved neck IM.
The steering rack is the biggest problem i see.
Anyone dare to move it ?
As far as the F goes, I think Matt meant use the sump and pickup pair. The blocks do differ, but it is minor. Some of them are drilled and tapped for configs they didn't use, so you may be ok. On my fe3 swap i had to drill and tap and extra hole to use the ute pickup on the fe3 block.

About the ute sump... it's just a normal sump and will work OK for normal driving etc, but all normal sumps suck balls when you give the car some serious shlt.

If you haven't seen it, check out my sump thread on diyefi, it's not perfect, but it's fairly good :

DIYEFI.org Forum - View topic - Oil Control (AKA Sumps) (no 56k)

where the engine started life and where it ends up are irrelevant unless you ignore the issues.

Fred.
Good read fredio. :tup:
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What transmission would you use with a KL series?
An RX7 trans or a B2200 trans with an RX7 bell housing is supposed to bolt up using a few of the bolts.

I don't think anyone has converted a 2nd gen to rwd yet using a KL, have they ?
Freds right about the stock sumps but turning the KL would simply make the pan a front sump design and as long as it'll clear what ever you have planned for a subframe/X member you'll be fine.

The stock cars dont have any noted issues with turning right and they can pull more G in a turn than accelerating.


A modified or fabricated pan would be best though.



I see no issues with the cooling system beyond re routing. Remember to keep the filler/rad cap higher than the rest of the system.


The IM is symetrical so using spacers it's possible to rotate the IM 180 degrees and have the TB facing forward. That depends on your application of course.
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