Mazda MX-6 Forum banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello again all, quick update on the telstar, pulled off the rusted out fenders, getting nicer ones freighted from Vic, will be going in for actual rust repair too as the sills are pretty bad and also some of the area behind the fenders. There's a spot in the boot, but at the moment it's a case of out of sight, out of mind.
13688


13690


There's plenty of little surface rust spots over the car because the paint is absolutely shot, but I've got a wire wheel for the drill and will be getting some rust converter just to cover it all up, it'll be ugly, but as long as it works, I'm happy. A respray is a big investment and 17 year old me doesn't wanna be paying 5k just for looks yet.

Trying to get the thermo fans working as the last owner tried putting them on a switch, but of course failed. The hard part is done of mounting the switch and running the wires, I just need to know where to put them (which I think I do)

And on classic young car guy style, I went out and bought a MUCH bigger turbo, along with a adapter plate for a t3 flange. (It was $60 alright! I couldn't resist!) That will be sitting for a while as I'll do all that stuff at once because that big turbo with no chip will only cause more harm than good.
13687


Tried to relocate the AFM to the boosted side as well to get more dose but silly me didn't check the piping diameter so it didn't fit and I had to put all the intake back on.
13689


I've managed to get the ebay boost tee to work now, for some reason the last owner had it turned WAY up, and it would spike immediately. (Around 10psi on the gauge in the cabin, who knows if he installed it right.) Now, it peaks at about 9, then levels off to 6 or so(again, gauge readings i know these are 7 psi stock so not sure what's going on there) so at least bow im able to fully get onto it and have a rip (private track of course, would never drive an unroadworthy car on the street ;) ) I also went and bought a hks evcs electronic boost controller which will complement the bigger turbo nicely in the future, its just fixing everything that's broken and/or sketchy.

13691


Anyways, I appreciate this forum existing, its already helped me a bunch so hopefully I can give back a little sometime. If you've got any questions or stuff leave a comment or feel free to dm me, ill try to check this at least every couple days and make posts when I can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Nice one mate! Get those badges off the guards before you toss them out. They are worth holding on to. How's the steering wheel under that monstrosity of a cover? I have driven a heap of these back in the day when I used to do wheel alignments for a job. TX5 Turbos and MX6 Turbos I liked so much I now have an MX6 turbo. I'm a rotary man but my pockets aren't that deep! Sold an RX4 coupe with a 13B Turbo for 7 grand in 1998.....it would be worth 70 grand now...ahhh crystal balls and hindsight eh?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Nice one mate! Get those badges off the guards before you toss them out. They are worth holding on to. How's the steering wheel under that monstrosity of a cover? I have driven a heap of these back in the day when I used to do wheel alignments for a job. TX5 Turbos and MX6 Turbos I liked so much I now have an MX6 turbo. I'm a rotary man but my pockets aren't that deep! Sold an RX4 coupe with a 13B Turbo for 7 grand in 1998.....it would be worth 70 grand now...ahhh crystal balls and hindsight eh?
Yeah will be getting the badges off for sure, the steering wheel looks alright under the cover, honestly haven't had a look ive got the choice to get a wheel shipped up too but I think I'll just be getting an aftermarket one later on anyways, will be getting a new dash as well the one in there now cracked like crazy, and has a dash mat from a very differently shaped car on there now haha. And yeah I've always loved rotarys too, not old enough to have experienced them while they were cheap tho ☹
 
  • Like
Reactions: Grantly

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,479 Posts
SaucyLemon, nice work so far.
Couple of suggestions:
-You should move the BOV to before the intercooler (after the turbo), that way you blow of hot air instead of intecooled air, helps lower heat soak on the intercooler unless you plan on recirculating the BOV air.

-You should look at this thread:
Billet Compressor Wheel for T-bird/VJ11
Post 9. This is the best way to set-up accurate and precise boost control on these engines.

-You don't want the AFM after the turbo in the path of boost air for a few reasons. I copied you Aussies and tried it in the hopes that having it after the BOV would keep the ECU from dumping unnecessary fuel into the engine that was measured by the air flow meter but dumped to atmosphere by the BOV. The results where:
The flap will open farther under pressure than vacuum and get worse gas millage, the flap will open and shut every time the BOV goes off making a most annoying sounds under the hood (like a turkey gobbling) and finally while spooling in 3rd and hitting 18psi on a T3 45trim turbo the Air Flow Meter sorta exploded, the black cover blew off and the back plate bowed out and leaked at both ends, the car wouldn't idle so had to ride the throttle to get it back to my shop and put the another AFM in the old location.
13717


13714


13715


13716
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
SaucyLemon, nice work so far.
Couple of suggestions:
-You should move the BOV to before the intercooler (after the turbo), that way you blow of hot air instead of intecooled air, helps lower heat soak on the intercooler unless you plan on recirculating the BOV air.

-You should look at this thread:
Billet Compressor Wheel for T-bird/VJ11
Post 9. This is the best way to set-up accurate and precise boost control on these engines.

-You don't want the AFM after the turbo in the path of boost air for a few reasons. I copied you Aussies and tried it in the hopes that having it after the BOV would keep the ECU from dumping unnecessary fuel into the engine that was measured by the air flow meter but dumped to atmosphere by the BOV. The results where:
The flap will open farther under pressure than vacuum and get worse gas millage, the flap will open and shut every time the BOV goes off making a most annoying sounds under the hood (like a turkey gobbling) and finally while spooling in 3rd and hitting 18psi on a T3 45trim turbo the Air Flow Meter sorta exploded, the black cover blew off and the back plate bowed out and leaked at both ends, the car wouldn't idle so had to ride the throttle to get it back to my shop and put the another AFM in the old location.
View attachment 13717

View attachment 13714

View attachment 13715

View attachment 13716
Wow! only reason id be moving the afm is for the noises anyways, since i dont have the adapters i probably wont bother, that silicon piping gets surprisingly expensive surprisingly quick. For the boost gauge, I knew the proper location, just havent been bothered to trace the line just yet as i have bigger things to worry about that if the boost gauge is reading correctly. That post was a good read though so thanks for sending that through. I would say itd be safe to assume its in the wrong spot though haha you never know with these unfinished project cars. With moving the BOV, i dont think ill bother as im not really using it anyways (The flutter is just too good) im honestly not sure why it isnt woring because the nut on the top is only hand tight, but maybe thats still too tight for it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
keep up the good work! love the "figure it out as i go along and have fun with it" attitude you got going
That's exactly the plan! long term project that can just sit there for however long and when I want to its always there to just spend an hour or so on. I think once the rust is "fixed" (or covered up in some spots) and the battery is relocated, intake sorted, and front pads changed it will most likely be good for rego. Maybe if I'm lucky it'll be ready the end of this year? I guess we'll see haha never know what im going to uncover on this thing.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,479 Posts
With moving the BOV, i dont think ill bother as im not really using it anyways (The flutter is just too good) im honestly not sure why it isnt woring because the nut on the top is only hand tight, but maybe thats still too tight for it.
Was thinking about your post a few days ago and though to add this.
- I never mentioned boost gauge in my post but did link a post referring to properly installing a boost controller.
This is information and experience I picked up or learned over the years, as with everything you read on the internet you can ignore it and not read it, read it and ignore it, add it to what you have learned or use it as a starting point to research things for yourself. (the 4th option is the path to automotive knowledge and enlightenment).

There is a good chance the previous owner got the Vacuum lines reversed. I have often seen the air filter hose connected to blow off valves and the BOV (air pypass valve) hose just hanging.
13739


The air bypass valve vacuum line has engine vacuum and boost.
The air box vacuum line just supplies air to the Solenoid valve (ERG Vent), no vacuum or boost signals.


Without an air bypass valve or BOV the turbo builds pressure in the charge pipe between shifts and this pushes on the compressor wheel and turbo's bearings, although the factory turbo's aren't very good and you have an upgrade...

The F2T has high engine vacuum and it has been my experience with every type/brand blow off valve that the maximum setting often isn't enough, the adjustment screw decides when the BOV opens and on average they will open if you rev the engine gently to 2000rpm and release the throttle.

Most BOVs (yours looks like a Greedy or Turbonetics style) have a valve or cup with a spring behind it that sits against the boost in the charge pipe, the adjustment screw adds tension to the spring, these types of BOV's use boost pressure from the vacuum line to hold the valve or cup closed under boost otherwise at X psi boost the valve/cup gets pushed opened and releases boost pressure to the atmosphere wasting fuel, hindering performance and taxing the turbo to maintain boost.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Was thinking about your post a few days ago and though to add this.
- I never mentioned boost gauge in my post but did link a post referring to properly installing a boost controller.
This is information and experience I picked up or learned over the years, as with everything you read on the internet you can ignore it and not read it, read it and ignore it, add it to what you have learned or use it as a starting point to research things for yourself. (the 4th option is the path to automotive knowledge and enlightenment).

There is a good chance the previous owner got the Vacuum lines reversed. I have often seen the air filter hose connected to blow off valves and the BOV (air pypass valve) hose just hanging.
View attachment 13739

The air bypass valve vacuum line has engine vacuum and boost.
The air box vacuum line just supplies air to the Solenoid valve (ERG Vent), no vacuum or boost signals.


Without an air bypass valve or BOV the turbo builds pressure in the charge pipe between shifts and this pushes on the compressor wheel and turbo's bearings, although the factory turbo's aren't very good and you have an upgrade...

The F2T has high engine vacuum and it has been my experience with every type/brand blow off valve that the maximum setting often isn't enough, the adjustment screw decides when the BOV opens and on average they will open if you rev the engine gently to 2000rpm and release the throttle.

Most BOVs (yours looks like a Greedy or Turbonetics style) have a valve or cup with a spring behind it that sits against the boost in the charge pipe, the adjustment screw adds tension to the spring, these types of BOV's use boost pressure from the vacuum line to hold the valve or cup closed under boost otherwise at X psi boost the valve/cup gets pushed opened and releases boost pressure to the atmosphere wasting fuel, hindering performance and taxing the turbo to maintain boost.
Yeah im assuming its hooked up wrong, just havent really looked into it as the electronic boost controller i will be getting put in will give me a boost reading anyways, so I will most likely be getting rid of it altogether. Im happy enough with the gauge readings for the time being, as the accuracy isnt so much as important as just knowing whether your at too much, or too little boost. ( came inhandy troubleshooting when the car was running like shit a while back because it popped a intercooler pipe off)

And thanks for that diagram, the engine bay is a bit crammed in these things with all the rubber hoses going everywhere, will help me make a bit more sense of whats going on. think ill be going to a mechanic and getting the boost controller done along with the turbo and most likely a 5th injector setup just to save me the hassle and also getting it all done at once saves on labour.

The bov isnt anything special, probably 1 step up from an ebay one (from supercheap auto, aus version of O'Reillys i guess) Havent worried too much about adjusting it as the flutter really doesnt cause any noticeable damage to the lifetime of the turbo and i have a spare stocker for it along with the new much bigger one haha.

Oh and i also might have to get the bov to recirc for rego but not sure yet might just make it look like its legal and then see what they fail it on cause im honestly not sure how strict they will be
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top