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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guy's i was just wondering how everyone else's VRIS is working cos i just checked mine and they don't seem to change. I started the car and went under the hood, the 2nd actuator is open and the 1st one is closed and when i rev the engine by manually opening the throtle body they don't change their positions. Can others please check their's and let me know???
thanks.
 

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the vris closer to your passenger side opens up upon starting your car, hte other one opens at about 4200 rpms(93 pgt) so it might be a little different on yours. but just run the paper test and if u fail check hte harnesses and try the soleniods meaning plug the left harness in the right solenoid make sure it opens up and if u do this and the left one doesnt open when it is plugged then the solenod is bad, be ready to pay some money for new ones but junkyards always a good quanity of em
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
ok cool, thanks for that just a couple of questions? what did you use to hold the paper their?
And burnt when you mean "plug the harness in" you are meaning the vacum line going to it right? cos i don't remember seeing an electrical connector on mine.
Thanks guy's.
 

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The paper is held by the spring force of the VRIS actuator arm. Just check it out, you'll see what I mean.

Burnt was talking about the electrical plugs that go to the VRIS solenoids (switches that control vac flow). If you look at the last pic that Cre3d posted, you can see the plugs. They are located in the center of the rear of the intake manifold.

http://mywebpages.comcast.net/kahmeal/vris/vris_both_paper.jpg

If you unplug the left one (the one that controls the passenger side VRIS) while the car is running, the passenger side VRIS should snap shut. Unplug the driver's side plug and plug in the passenger's side plug. The driver's side plug should snap open. If it doesn't, something may be wrong with the solenoid, vac supply or VRIS actuator. Personally, if you aren't getting a CEL #46, you are probably ok.

Do the paper test before you unplug harnesses, I don't think it's necessary if your car passes the test.
 
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VRIS

I don’ know about advanced paper tests guys. My _repair manual_ says, that VRIS actuators are supposed to move when you rev up the engine with throttle pulley.
So what is the point of the paper test?

I have VRIS#1 stuck open and VRIS #2 stuck closed no matter what I do. Solenoids circuitry and vacuum hoses are fine. What else could be the problem? Any suggestions?

Thanks!
 

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Re: VRIS

impello said:
I don’ know about advanced paper tests guys. My _repair manual_ says, that VRIS actuators are supposed to move when you rev up the engine with throttle pulley.
Thanks!
What repair manual is that?

VRIS only works at WOT. If you wanna freerev the motor at WOT, well, its your motor.
-Garrett
 
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VRIS, TPS

It is Haynes Repair Manual for 626&MX-6. Should I trust it?

Can the problem be related to adjustment of TPS?

Paper test seems to be strange, since in my case the VRIS#1 actuator will be pulled in once the car has started. So the piece of paper will be gone at that moment without giving any information. There is no need to go WOT to get rig this piece.
 

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Re: VRIS, TPS

impello said:
Paper test seems to be strange, since in my case the VRIS#1 actuator will be pulled in once the car has started. So the piece of paper will be gone at that moment without giving any information. There is no need to go WOT to get rig this piece.
In that case, just put the paper on the other VRIS (closer to the throttle body...the driver's side). Go for a drive. Get the rpm's up to about 7k rpm. You can do this in 1st gear if you don't want to speed or do it in 2nd gear on the highway (start at 30 mph [e.g. getting off the ramp] do NOT downshift from highway speeds). If you feel a kick in power at about 4250-4500 rpm, your driver's side VRIS is working. The fact that your passenger side VRIS opened suggests that it is working ok. If you wish, you could also put a paper on the passenger side VRIS after you have started the car.

The test is not hard to do. It isn't rocket science.

Also, is anything wrong with your car or are you just curious?
 

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PGT97ZE said:
My passenger side cycles from open to close at idle. Is that normal?
Does your car really have a ZE engine swap using either mikeseli's ZE chip or a KLZE ECU?

I have mikeseli's ZE chip and both of my VRIS will open briefly then close immediately upon start-up. I think it's just the computer going thru the diagnostics

If your car's VRIS continually opens and closes at idle, that isn't really normal. Check your connection to see if it's loose. Is the opening and closing rythmic? or does it open and close somewhat sporadically?
 
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Re: Re: VRIS, TPS

The test is not hard to do. It isn't rocket science.

Also, is anything wrong with your car or are you just curious?

Since recent my engine is lacking power. Paper test is easy and useless in my case.
The VRIS1 is activated already and does not hold the paper. After all, If VRIS takes intake adjustments anly at 6000+ – this is not right. It is supposed to do several adjustments in lower RPM range.
 

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Re: Re: Re: VRIS, TPS

impello said:
Since recent my engine is lacking power. Paper test is easy and useless in my case.
The VRIS1 is activated already and does not hold the paper. After all, If VRIS takes intake adjustments anly at 6000+ – this is not right. It is supposed to do several adjustments in lower RPM range.
VRIS #1 is supposed to be activated at idle. There are 2 stop posts at each VRIS actuator, just put the paper on the opposite stopping post for VRIS #1. VRIS #2 is closed. So put that on the closed stopping post.

Go for a drive. VRIS #1 and VRIS #2 will be open at 4250rpm. They both will close simultaneously at 6250 rpm

Do you have any CEL codes?
 

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Re: VRIS, TPS

impello said:
It is Haynes Repair Manual for 626&MX-6. Should I trust it?
Not really. I read what it says to remind me to do things, like disconnect the battery, but most of what they say is either blatantly obvious, unnecessary, or plain wrong.

-Garrett
 
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Re: Re: VRIS, TPS

skiingman said:
Not really. I read what it says to remind me to do things, like disconnect the battery, but most of what they say is either blatantly obvious, unnecessary, or plain wrong.

-Garrett
Wow. Are all books that way?

In my case the manual was ok. My VRIS did not work properly because of TPS needed to be adjusted. When I have done this according to the manual, both VRIS actuators started to move when the engine reves up. Just like it was said in the manual. Problem fixed.

Regarding paper test. It can verify the only fact that VRIS#2 is opening (or not) at some (??) RPMs. That is not much.

Paper test says too little. If not nothing. There is some place for the paper test in our life. ;) But this place is not the diagnostics procedure for VRIS.
 

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Re: Re: Re: VRIS, TPS

impello said:
Wow. Are all books that way?

In my case the manual was ok. My VRIS did not work properly because of TPS needed to be adjusted. When I have done this according to the manual, both VRIS actuators started to move when the engine reves up. Just like it was said in the manual. Problem fixed.

Regarding paper test. It can verify the only fact that VRIS#2 is opening (or not) at some (??) RPMs. That is not much.

Paper test says too little. If not nothing. There is some place for the paper test in our life. ;) But this place is not the diagnostics procedure for VRIS.
Not all books. Haynes manuals are what I was speaking of.

What part of the paper test do you not understand? It will let you know everything you need to know....

Obviously you don't understand the paper test....
-Garrett
 

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The paper test is great for telling you whether the vris actuators are "actuating" or not....but if the test fails, then the paper test doesn't really help you in diagnosing a problem. I like the Haynes manual's description for testing the vacuum actuators and solenoids. It pretty much makes sense and the tests it offers give you a more specific criteria to work with.

Usually I read the Haynes manual first, then stay confused for a while, then talk to guys on this site, then read the manual again and it makes more sense. That is my own general timeline.

Mike
 
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Re: Re: Re: Re: VRIS, TPS

skiingman said:
Not all books. Haynes manuals are what I was speaking of.

What part of the paper test do you not understand? It will let you know everything you need to know....

Obviously you don't understand the paper test....
-Garrett
I understand every detail of paper test.

Here its constraints:
1. Normally, VRIS1 activated at idle. Paper Is gone when you start the engine. BUT, even though it is activated (retracted), it may never move back. (I have seen such cases) So, paper test says nothing in this situation.

2. People in this forum suggest driving at low gear at up to 6500 rpm…. Well, the paper may be gone… but when? At 5000, 6000? Who knows? The test is useless again.

You can figure out some thing with paper test. But there is a bunch of situations when it says nothing.

Reasonable suggestion is to use light bulbs sitting on the hood.
The manual recommendation will do just fine too...

There was no way it could help me to fix my VRIS.

I fixed it using the manual. The root cause was the TPS sensor adjustmet.

Good luck!
 

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Well I just did the paper test and Solenoid #2 failed. CEL was on and notified me of the problem. My question is, how do you replace it? I have the Chiltons manual and so far have yet to find ANYTHING other than a diagram showing the VRIS system. But has no explanation on how to fix it if it malfunctions.
Can someone help a brother out?

I am not keeping the car long but I need to fix a few things before I can sell it, this would be one of the things needed to be fixed.
 
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