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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So a while ago I had my brakes inspected by Sears on my 91 PGT so they could crack off 3 of my OEM locking lugs as my key broke and they informed me that my rear brakes were quite far gone. Anyways, I was planning on ordering up some rotors and pads but never got around to it and about 6 weeks later one of my rear brakes started grounding. I then promptly ordered some Brembo Blanks from and picked up some Porterfield R4S pads & SS lines with the PT discount.

I then looked into my Ford Factory service manual to make sure there was nothing unusual about the 1g GT rear brakes from any other brakes I had done and come to find out, the wheel bearing is actually pressed into the rotor. I had never done a wheel bearing before, so I went on to search both here and PT to find out how difficult this would be. I found a few descriptions in posts, but no one had actual pictures of the process so here are some to help others down the road.

These are all the passenger rear wheel for reference.

Freshly Removed Wheel

Picture of the assembled E-Brake cable mounted to the Caliper.

E-Brake cable removed.

12mm Bolt removed from the top of the caliper allowing caliper to slide back and give access to the pads. This bolt can be seen in the first picture pointing away from the wheel. Then the pads were removed by simply tapping them away from the rotor.

ACK, my old pads, the one on the right (facing wheel) is practically non-existant.

Removed the caliper from the rotor by unbolting it's 2 14mm mounting bolts in the knuckle (also seen in the first picture) and then strung it from the spring to keep it out of the way and keep stress off the OEM rubber brake line.

Removed dust cap from infront of the axle nut. Removed it by wedging a flat head screw driver between the cap and the rotor... turning the rotor to gradually break it free and not warp it.

Removed dust cap reveals axle nut. From here take a flat head and push the bent in pieces of the axle nut away from the axle so the nut can turn past the groove. Then the rotor with wheel bearing pulled off the axle.

Back side of the rotor. Need to remove the ABS ring (light gray and fairly clean in the picture). I had also removed the inner grease cap which covered the C clip which holds the wheel bearing in.

Here's a picture of my needle plyers which make removing that C clip so much easier.

I tried to remove that ABS ring with some channel locks, but couldn't manage it. People had warned me about breaking the ring but it seems pretty sturdy. Since I didn't have a press handy, I had to think something else up or just deal without having ABS till I could get the ring pressed off the old rotor.

I had an idea! To remove the ABS ring, I placed the rotor on it's back and hammered the original lug studs back through the rotor. They ended up laying against the ABS ring with about 1/2" sticking up through the rotor. Great! I hammered down on the lug studs gradually all the way around as to not put too have it go down slanted and likely break once it went far enough. Worked like a charm. :tup:

However, the ABS ring wasn't all the way off at this point.

So I took a 3/8" extension and continued pounding on the studs. Then the studs all finally fell in but the ABS ring still wasn't off... so I pounded on the back of the ABS ring with the extension directly and finally got the ABS ring off.

Here's a picture of all the smaller items removed so far.
  • ABS ring - has the teeth
  • C clip - holds the wheel bearing in
  • C clip grease cap - protects the C clip and helps keep dirt out of the wheel bearing
  • Axle dust cap - helps keep the axle nut corrosion free

My new Brembo blank with wheel bearing and new studs already pressed in.

Backside view.

Pounded the ABS ring onto the new rotor slowly using a rubber mallet and put the C Clip back in place (I re-used the original as it was in good shape).

Installed grease cap.

Installed Rotor assembly.

Installed axle nut dust cap.

New Porterfield R4S pads.

For some reason I did not remember to take a finished up picture! But on the bright side, this is the only wheel I did so far (was 33*F outside while I did this and it snowed the day before) so I'll try to remember to take pictures of a few things I wished I had taken pictures of for this writeup to add later on.

Edit 1 - Please note that when attempting to retract the piston back into the caliper to install new pads that the piston is actually threaded into the caliper. First open the bleeder to allow fluid to exit the caliper and then turn the piston clockwise so you can thread the piston back into the caliper. (Thanks to tyler886 out this important omission)

12,045 Posts
I'll reserve this post for SS line install pictures once I get to it. :tup:

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