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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok, well ive been complaining about the feel of my brakes a lot lately so i finnally did something about it, i found someone with a probe gt that was in the process of being dismantled for peices for his 626, and ni asked for the rear brake assembly. i ended up being allowed to take the entire rear end for 50 bucks, well here's the install instructions for anyone wanting to switch from rear drum to rear disk, which solved my petal difficulties...

1. lift the rear of the donor car and support at the pickup points just in front of the rear tires (( or with a lift if you have one ))

2. remove tires and disconnect the strut assembly from the hub, also dissconnect the brake hose from the steel line and disconnect from the strut itself.

3. disconnect the trailing arm from the unibody up underneith where the rear seats would be.

4. follow the emergency brake cables on both sides dissconnecting the holding brackets, these are 10 mm bolts for the most part except where they bolt to the trailing arms which are either 12 or 14 mm.. i dont remember which. then also dissconnect both of the cables from the spring loaded assembly at the handbrake, you'll want the exhause pipe cold for this because its directly above it.

5. look at the back side of the crossmember and youll see a small connector for the passenger rear brake line, its a 10 mm bolt that holds it to the cross member, take out this bolt.

6. put a jack under the middle of the crossmember with just enough pressure to keep the jack at the member but not lifting on the car. at either end of the cross member are a pair of 14 mm bolts holding the member to the unibody, remove these 4 bolts and the member will ballance on the jack.

7. lower the jack slowly so that everything pulls free easly ((spelling )) and wheel that off to one side.

8. repeat 1-7 on the donor car, its easiest if you get the entire cross member, lines, and emergency cables so that you dont have to buy any new parts, and also you wont have to dissconnect the control arms.

instalation of the new member is 1-7 in reverse, just be careful in putting in the 4 support bolts for the crossmember as it is easy to get them crossthreaded, you may have to raise and lower the crossmember as you thread in the bolts in order to get things lined up well.

it took me about an hour and a half to get the rear end out of the PGT, but it had cinderblocks holding the rear off of the ground and they were imbedded in the dirt, so there wasnt much room, thankfully it hadnt been there too long so nothing had damage from being exposed,and there wasnt weeds growing in anything, once i had my car up in the driveway, it only took maybe an hour for removal, and perhaps 45 minutes for install, and it really helps with the braking capabilites..
 

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Well... Thats seems like alot... Now I don't feel so bad with the comparable little work I did to mount my rear discs.
For those that prefer a slightly easier way (minus the removal of the crossmember!) here ya go.

You will need the e-brake cables, rubber brake lines, rear discs and calipers (duh), and the axle hubs that mount to from a GT.

(pick a side)
1: remove the bolts holding the trailing arm and lateral links to the rear axle hub

2: disconnect the rubber brake line at the connection on the frame from the metal line.

3: remove the two 17mm bolts holding the axle hub the strut.

4: remove the e-brake cable from the entire car. (now garbage)

5: remove the rear drum and axle as an assebly. (now garbage)

6: see how far you can toss it down the street.

7: in reverse order of steps 1 through 5, install the disc axle hubs, discs, calipers, and e-brake.

8: perform steps 1 through 7 on the opposite side.

And you now have rear discs excellent for rear-end maneuvering, 180s, side-way cocked stops, etc. Have fun (in less time, with less work)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
acctually, removing the whole crossmember took less time, i tried just taking the hubs by dissconnecting the trailing arms, but the bolt was tightened down hard enough, and with my relatively small body mass i was unable to break it loose, it really figures out to about the same amount of time in the end i suppose, just depends upon your arms strength :shrug:

either way, you end up with the same results
 

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The long bolt that goes through the spindle/hub, now that one is a bitch. I had a three foot lever and lifted the donor car off the jack trying to break it loose. Had to torch it eventually, maybe the donor car I got mine off of was just a little rusty, nobody else seems to have had that problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
which is exactly the reason i took the entire cross member.. only 4 14mm bolts todeal with that needed only a socket and ratchet.
 
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Junkyards Mods

Hi all,

I just finished this upgrade on my car over the weekend, with some help from the guys at SCPOC (see www.probetalk.com ). Thanks guys.

Picked up the parts from a junkyard in Wilmington, lots of 1st Gen Probes and MX-6 there...found parts for mine on LX.

For the most part, upgrade goes as described above (unless you forget to pull the E-Brake Cable, which is different from the old one).

The $50 rear-end is going to be few and far between, especially at the yards (they nickel and dime for every little thing). All in all, I spent $100 at the yards for spindles, calipers, rotors, pads, and lines. I also bought new rotors, bearings, pads, and hardware for mounting the pads for another $185+

For this to evolve into a quality upgrade, prepare to spend some money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
heh.. yeah.. that is a good point, the only reason i got it so cheap was that the guy's wife blew the trans, and he was parting it out in a grab for quick money to fix his 626, so i got a real steal.
 

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I got mine for 50 bucks too, I took the struts and spindles, and got the lower tie bar. There are indeed cheaper ways then a junky.
 

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nice 4 year old thread

damn even thirdcherry posted in this thread, too bad he got rid of his car 3 years ago and got a nissan Xtera for it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
wow... and here i thought this thread had not only died but also turned to dust
 
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