PB Blaster and Air Tools are your friends.
Rear lower strut bolt stuck...suggestions?
I've been changing the struts and shocks. I've got 3 installed and I can't seem to get the bottom bolt off. I tried pounding it out with a hammer. Jacking+pounding. Pry with a screw driver and then larger pry. Can't seem to get that bolt out and I'm about to cut the bolt since I have a replacement. Is there any else with this problem?
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^If that doesn't work, use lots of heat and air tools. Should come loose after that.
Did you get the bolt out?? I'm assuming you got the nut off and the bolt isn't spinning or backing out?
Well, I going to try some PB Blaster and leave it on there for a few hours. The stuff is a penetrating catalyst claims to eat through a styrofoam cup within two minutes.
gasoline will eat thru a styrafoam cup in about 20 seconds..
but i had that exact problem when i did my springs. the one bolt on the back just would not move. tried heat, huge ass leverage bars, everything. nothing worked.
brought it to a friends shop with an impact (and a good wall mounted spring compressor, not the shitty rental type..) and got the whole job done in about an hour.
but i had that exact problem when i did my springs. the one bolt on the back just would not move. tried heat, huge ass leverage bars, everything. nothing worked.
brought it to a friends shop with an impact (and a good wall mounted spring compressor, not the shitty rental type..) and got the whole job done in about an hour.
PB Blast didn't work. I even tried jacking a wrench. That [email protected]#$ didn't move for nothing. I don't have my torch on hand but I'm gonna torch it up tomorrow and use an impact. I wanted to avoid messing with the brakes but I'm gonna remove that also so I can get to the bolt. If I resort to my last option I'll be taking offers on 3 good Tokicos Blues and one damaged one.
Just split the nut using a nut splitter and you're laughing...I wouldn't waste anymore time on it if I was in that situation. I just did my front tie rods, stabilizer links and control arms, and had to do it for the crown nut on the outer tie rod, and on the inner tie rod jam nut...just do it and get it over with bro.
I didn't manage to do much about that stupid bolt today but stare at it. Ended up greasing up my mounts and grinding one of the top mounts that came with the coilovers since it didn't fit into the strut right and was clunking everytime I turned the wheel. But I did get a hold a buddy I know who owns a tire shop since I needed to change my tires also. I'll be hauling that there sometime tomorrow. I'll get that thing out one way or another. I didn't even think about splitting it. Karma to you.
I ended using a very high compression impact gun at the tire shop. The bolt was seized pretty tightly but took the bolt right out in 5 minutes. I guess tools make all the difference. Now just gotta reassemble my rear brakes. Karma to all.
I would head to a hardware shop and get 8 new bolts to install your suspension with. Something like a grade 8.8 or higher. Might as well do it right the first time.
Yeah I know I should replace the bolts. Hate to go through all that again. Thanks for the help.
I would not replace the bolts. I'd use all the old ones which are designed for the job and only replace that one. In fact, I'd buy a used single bolt from someone on the board to replace that last one.
A couple reasons not to replace the bolts with general grade 8 is that the stock bolts have a correct length of non-threaded portions so they are less likely to snap and if you don't fully fill that hole, the strut *could* move up/down on the knuckle.
Also, upon re-installation, first use some high grit sand paper on the smooth part of the bolts and then put a little white lithium or axle grease on them so you never have this issue again.
A couple reasons not to replace the bolts with general grade 8 is that the stock bolts have a correct length of non-threaded portions so they are less likely to snap and if you don't fully fill that hole, the strut *could* move up/down on the knuckle.
Also, upon re-installation, first use some high grit sand paper on the smooth part of the bolts and then put a little white lithium or axle grease on them so you never have this issue again.
I agree with Jeff, its the right way to do it. But then again, most people seem to have the attitude "if it fits and works, its good enough" around here.
-Tyler
-Tyler
When handling bolts, I personally find it best to run a medium-high speed brass wheel over the threads and shank of the bolt. It cleans them up rather nicely 
True, and use anti-seize to make sure it doesn't happen again.
Only reason I suggested replacing is because I bought mine for $18 total for all new bolts in the exact specs as factory. Brafasco, which is local to me, had the exact ones needed, just a little longer thread, but the non-threaded section is to a T, perfect.I would not replace the bolts. I'd use all the old ones which are designed for the job and only replace that one. In fact, I'd buy a used single bolt from someone on the board to replace that last one.
A couple reasons not to replace the bolts with general grade 8 is that the stock bolts have a correct length of non-threaded portions so they are less likely to snap and if you don't fully fill that hole, the strut *could* move up/down on the knuckle.
Also, upon re-installation, first use some high grit sand paper on the smooth part of the bolts and then put a little white lithium or axle grease on them so you never have this issue again.
It's not "if it fits and works, it's good enough", it's that it's new, it's overkill, and it's cost effective.
If you can't get them cheap, then just replace it with a used one.
That's what the axle/white lithium I already mentioned is for.True, and use anti-seize to make sure it doesn't happen again.
Right, of course. It's just that I don't use grease for any nuts/bolts unless it's called for. I figure anti-seize is made for this specific purpose. I just have a fear (probably unfounded) that grease might promote the nut backing out, whereas anti-seize probably wouldn't...dumb, I know.
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