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Discussion Starter #1
I tried to install the 626 rear sway bar this evening and I managed to get every bolt undone except the ones that connect to the rear sway bar and the stabillizer links. I was using an impact gun and they were just spinning. Then I tryed the allen key thing on it and no dice. So how the hell do you get them off!?

Thanks,
Matt
 

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Yup, cut em off. That's about the only way. I tried everything to get my old ones out, eventually just cut them. They probably need to be replaced anyway.
 
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Discussion Starter #4
You cut the nut off? I was thinking of cutting them off too, but wasn't sure.
 

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Hey All just a note about the MX6 & 626 sway bar. I was at the dealer and I inquired about the MX6 and 626 sway bar. They are the same bar according to them, as they both have the exact same part number.
 

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You need the 2001 626 swaybar.. it's a 16mm as apposed to our 12mm.
 

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Yeah you gotta cut em off.
When my drivers side one broke last year there was no way in hell I was going to get that nut lose. It was rusted to shit. Just take a hack saw and go nuts.
When you replace them though, get '95 Nissan Altima endlinks. They are designed better so if it ever comes time to remove them for any reason, you could probably get it done. The Altima links are direct replacements...no modding required!

-Daryl
 
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Discussion Starter #9
Ya I used to work at a Nissan dealer, so I still get cost on these things. I'll be picking a set up soon as I really want to get this done!

As for the sway bar, yes, you need the 2001 626 bar and bushings and then the 95 altima stab links....Wow, just looking at that it make you realize how much of a conversion car the MX6 is...lol
 

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Well upon checking with the dealer the MX Swaybar and 2001 626 is different but the price is like $180 and the 626 is $56. Why would there be such a big difference in price if the 626 is a heavier bar?
 

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^^^I don't know, but don't complain....probably the cheapest handling mod you can do to these cars.

By the way...Can you use front Altima stab. links or does it have to be rear?
 

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The rears from a 2001+ 626 work as well and are again 1/2 the price of the ones for the MX6. I just got prices today from Mazda.
 

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did anyone try using needle nose pliers to hold their spinning links? i loosened mine, but then they kept spinning. i was able to get the pliers to grip just inside the rubber and hold the bolt while i continued to loosen it. no need to cut and replace, they tighten to spec just fine. :shrug:
 

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John, i broke out my pliers and did the same thing. It sucks, but it will atleast let you get the damn bolt on . I would try that just to see if you can get that bolt off and then go to a nissan dealership and get the 95 rear endlinks so you ever have to deal with the stupid allen bolt crap ever again!
 

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malibuflavor said:
Is this all cheapier and better than buying one of those sway bars they sell on ebay?
You're probably talking about the Strut Tower Bar. The Rear STB makes a nice difference in tightening up the rear end by tying the towers together. The 626 sway bar is an upgrade (16mm vs 12mm) for our rear sway bars. A sway bar helps keep the car flat in turns and will make the steering more neutral with less understeer. There is a good sticky post on probetalk regarding sway bars. The 626 bar is the cheapest sway bar upgrade (~$32 + $15 for bushings). Get a RSTB (any cheapy on ebay should be the same as most) and a 626 sway bar for a nice rear end upgrade.

FYI: the upgraded 626 sway bar is from 2000-2002 models.
 
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