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My first day of college is August 28th, and I'll have an hour long drive to school. I'm rebuilding my '96 Mx6 to get me back and forth to school over the next 13 months.

This is where I'm at right now:


To do list:
1. Complete rebuild of automatic transmission. (A friend is helping me with this.)
2. New timing belt and water pump.
3. New CV axles, lower control arms, and outer tie rods. (All broken boots.)
4. De-power steering rack.
5. Fix 4,000rpm idle. (The biggest problem.)
6. Clean everything up. (The car was beautiful until the transmission went out and she has been sitting in my buddie's driveway for quite a while sadly.)
7. Fix the moonroof. (Worked before it sat, maybe I need a new motor. Low priority haha.)

There are two big problems I'm going to have to solve in the next few weeks to get this car on the road. The axles are stuck in the hubs. Really stuck. I believe I'm going to need to find an air chisel to get them out. Hopefully that works, because idk what else would work. This is the mushroomed driver side axle:

Sorry for the horrible pictures, my phone is awful and it was 4 a.m. when they were taken.

The biggest problem is that last year after the tranny went out, I decided it would be a great idea to delete the power steering and the a/c. Ever since I took out all the hardware and the car wants to idle at 4k. I'm almost certain that I didn't mess up any sensors, so I think it has to be something to do with the wiring/electrical parts of those systems giving the IACV faulty signals now that the parts are gone. If anyone here has done those deletes in the past, did you have idle issues? Did you mess with any wiring/fuses? I didn't pull any fuses or wiring when I did it, so hopefully I can find the issue quickly once I have everything back together. More updates when I have time, thanks for looking and for any advice! :)
 

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Hey, Welcome to the Board.

Can't offer much advice here, but FriendsofDonr is a whore with the 4 bangers, he can probably help you.

As for your atx tranny, why not swap to mtx if you are this far in?


Anyways, keep up the work and keep the posts coming.
 

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Get rid of the slush box...
If it were me I wouldn't mess with that power steering at all. I did an ac delete and have not had any issues with idle.

I'd say there's something else going on. I had a high idle when my throttle plated didn't seal at around 2.5k. That's really the only time I've had an idle over 1.5k
If you wanna see the things I have done to my car the link is in my signature. Its been a crap shoot lately but I have a few more things up my sleeve.

Other than the idle what other symptoms did you have? Did the idle drop for a second when you gave it gas? Was there a loss in power? Did you touch any vacuum lines? How much of the ac system did you delete?

Theres not a whole lot of things deleting the ac that you could have messed up. I can't speak for the power steering delete.

On that note, do you still have the lines in or did you delete them also?
 

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Thanks for the responses guys! I really wanted to go manual, but I don't have a donor car laying around or else I would. :/

I've been looking for knuckles/hubs, but they aren't easy to find. Everything on ebay says "no abs" which is weird because I thought that was a standard feature on these cars. I'm probably going to have to take them to get pressed out and just pray that the hubs/knuckles aren't damaged.

About the a/c and p/s deletes, everything is completely gone except for the evaporator, which is capped off. I was planning on doing a wire tuck, so I wanted everything out of there.
@friendsofdonr, as soon as the engine comes on, it immediately just goes to 4k. Since everything is disconnected i'll get to redo all the vacuum lines as it goes back together, but I don't think it was that simple. I know that the IACV takes a signal from the a/c and p/s and modifies the idle to compensate for them, but idk how much of a factor it really is. Also are you talking about the throttle body gasket? I'll definitely check that area for leaks, thanks for the info. :)
 

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I was referring to the throttle plate or butterfly inside. i modified mine so that why i had an air leak around the plate. (un-metered air flow can do a lot)

The IAC may be a good place to look but I doubt its that. It shouldn't have that high of an impact on idle and if you didn't mess with the coolant and have no leaks the system shouldn't have air in is causing the IAC to act up.

The two nipples that have a small wire attached tot them from the ps and ac send a signal to the ecu to raise the idle a bit when they are engaged. Unplugged they dont do anything. so it shouldn't be from removing the system.

did you do the removal of this stuff with the engine in the bay or when it was out? I would check the nipiles on the three vac solenoids that should be bolted to the side of the intake manifold opposite the throttle body. They could be leaking or not plugged in.

Do you/ Did you have any check engine lights or codes?
 

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My friend (henceforth referred to as FSC) says he's about 75% done with the transmission now. He spent pretty much the entire day cleaning out the filthy old case and pounding in new bearings. Other than that, I didn't really get much done today. My control arms and tie rod ends came in, and I pulled the steering rack, but didn't open it up yet.



I really wanted to do the timing belt/water pump today, but when I got the valve cover off I was met with an overabundance of rtv from whoever put it on last. Feels like I spent all my time scraping that crap off, and I've barely put a scratch in it. :( All of this work is going on in FSC's garage, and unfortunately he had business to attend to and we had to call it a night fairly early. We both work all day tomorrow, but we should have the engine/transmission/engine harness all together very soon. Hoping to get the old axles pressed early next week, and the new axles should be here Monday or Tuesday. Having a deadline is stressful! FSC also noticed a badly dry rotted vacuum hose on the back of the engine, and decided that we're going to replace all of the vacuum hoses since many of them are likely 17 years old. :)
 

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did you do the removal of this stuff with the engine in the bay or when it was out? I would check the nipiles on the three vac solenoids that should be bolted to the side of the intake manifold opposite the throttle body. They could be leaking or not plugged in.

Do you/ Did you have any check engine lights or codes?
Everything was in the bay when I did the deletes. I did find that one of the vacuum lines by the intake manifold was badly dry rotted and will be replaced before the engine fires up again. Good lookin' out, I really hope that was the issue. :tup:
 

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You shouldn't hammer on the ends of the axles, they mushroom like that. In stead thread the nut on so its flush at the end , what I like to do is place a impact socker on the nut and whale on it with a hammer. If its possible you can thread it on backwards so its flush, and you have the larger surface to hit. Then smack it with the hammer.

You might be able to save those but it would take a dremel., you would need to dremel the mush room down and get the nut back on to hit with a hammer.
 

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The axles finally came out, unfortunately one of the bearings wasn't very psyched about it so I had to order a used hub assembly from ebay. The tranny's back together, just waiting on one seal before we can start putting the whole thing back together. I'll try to get pictures of the steering rack as I take it apart tomorrow. Have to make a huge allen key first. :)
 

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Never mess with your steering rack. Never. There are specialty tools required, and you will likely mess it up. Just leave it alone. Haha.

My car finally runs and drives normally as of last night. Hint to anyone who ever wants to rebuild their transmission using some parts from junkyard transmissions: don't use the diff out of a Contour's CD4E in your own, because it will make a terrible chatter and you'll have to take out your tranny again and start over...

New problem: When i went to put gas in it, the pump kept shutting off after every $0.30 or so worth of gas i'd pump, acting like it was full even though it was completely empty. Tried moving the nozzle further into and out of the filler hole, but it didn't help at all. I got sick of pumping gas thirty cents worth at a time, so i left a bit frustrated and with about 4 gallons of fuel. Any ideas? I'm hoping it's something that i can clean and i don't need a new filler neck. :(
 

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Thank you sir! Lots of good ideas there. :)

I'm beginning the search for all the parts needed for a manual swap now. The junkyard i went to yesterday was pretty barren unfortunately. The only 5-speed mazda was a Protege, all the 626s and Probes were stripped. A manual from a '96 Protege LX won't fit my '96 MX6 correct? :)
 

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I'm planning to drive to school and need to make some modifications, like KVR Performance brakes and Tokico shocks. I also want to paint it in Vintage Red. Less time now for my school or homework essay writing service though I've online classes, so finally, I have time for the car: I don't have a to-do list yet, because it looks fine so far (it's been garage kept for the past 18 years. but my grandpa cleaned it up and managed to replace some old parts).
Hi,
Do you use it now? What about the modifications? I've got my '93 Mazda MX-6 LS from my dad and I'm planning to commute to college after the quarantine. I'm planning to get a new steering rack too, but the prices are high for a good one.
 

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Hi,
Do you use it now? What about the modifications? I've got my '93 Mazda MX-6 LS from my dad and I'm planning to commute to college after the quarantine. I'm planning to get a new steering rack too, but the prices are high for a good one.
Zombie Thread Resurrection lol
 
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