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Discussion Starter #1
So here's the rundown.
I was planning on doing a motor swap here in a few months. I had the motor bored 20 over, picked up new pistons, port and polished the head, and got a valve job. This has been sitting in my garage for a couple of months while I have been hoarding parts.

I was driving home one day and the car just dies as im driving 50 mph. I had it towed home and I checked it out. I wasn't getting any spark due to a bad wire somewhere. Had it towed to the shop, because it was a huge headache that I was tired of dealing with. The shop found the bad connection and fixed it. They also told me that my timing belt slipped. To make a long story short, they did the worst timing belt job ever for a f2t because they sent me home with it 3 teeth off. I fixxed the timing belt and now my valves are bent :tdown: So It looks like it's time to swap

I have a few questions before I do the swap though.

1. I have heard a lot of different ways of doing it. I plan on leting the car run for 5 minutes, turn off. Then change the oil and run it for 30 min. then change the oil at 500 miles. Is this a good way to break in a F2T?

2. I was wondering if anyone on here has an ACT clutch? I picked up a good clutch from them (XT-SS) and was wondering how I should break it in. I figured with the combo of freshly rebuilt motor and a new clutch I should baby it for 500 miles (no boost). Due to the fact that I have a 16G turbo on it, I dont want to hit boost and have the clutch slip. I also want to try to break it in so that it wont chatter.

3. Can you re-use F2T head bolts? I plan on getting ARP head studs but money is tight and I need to get my car running. I figured I could re_use them during the break in period, and then put the APR studs in.

Here are a few pics so you can check it out


ACT XT-SS Cluch rated at 440 torque


decking and valve job (also port and polish not shown in pic)


Block bored 20 over

Any useful info would be helpful. Thank you
 

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1. I have heard a lot of different ways of doing it. I plan on leting the car run for 5 minutes, turn off. Then change the oil and run it for 30 min. then change the oil at 500 miles. Is this a good way to break in a F2T?

Should work, maybe excessive, but would work. I changed mine at about 200 miles or so on the first change, maybe a bit more. I did a somewhat hard break in, not as hard as I liked, but seems to have worked.

2. I was wondering if anyone on here has an ACT clutch? I picked up a good clutch from them (XT-SS) and was wondering how I should break it in. I figured with the combo of freshly rebuilt motor and a new clutch I should baby it for 500 miles (no boost). Due to the fact that I have a 16G turbo on it, I dont want to hit boost and have the clutch slip. I also want to try to break it in so that it wont chatter.

The clutch will likely need an easy break in, but as far as the engine goes, driving it a bit hard loads the rings a bit more, and they seat faster and better, but it won't hurt it to do a soft break in.

3. Can you re-use F2T head bolts? I plan on getting ARP head studs but money is tight and I need to get my car running. I figured I could re_use them during the break in period, and then put the APR studs in.

Yes they can be re used, if you can check the length...usually my rule for mine is I'll only re use them if it was initially the stock install to begin with, and I try to only ru use them once...but I have an abundance of them compared to running engines/cars, so I can just bounce around sets...
 

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The clutch would need a break-in period which will be similar to that of the engine. Don't rev it over 4k for the first 500 miles. As far as the boost, just keep it set to factory boost levels. In respect to the head studs, seriously if you spent all that money to re-work this motor dont cheap out here in the end and potential bust a head stud and set the whole project back by months. Good luck and keep us posted.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks

In respect to the head studs, seriously if you spent all that money to re-work this motor dont cheap out here in the end and potential bust a head stud and set the whole project back by months. Good luck and keep us posted.
Seriously Im broke. By broke I mean insurance is due next month ($600) and I have just enough to do the motor swap. I need my car running like..... 3 weeks ago.

That's the only reason why i was asking. That's why I said I will put the arp studs in after the break in period. Plus if Im not boosting, it shouldn't put too much stress on the studs right?
 

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As far as running in a new motor goes, use "running in oil" which is typically SAE 30 single grade wtih no additives and change it after 600 miles.

I just do "normal city driivng" avoiding prolonged idling, or constant speed driving, but yeah keep the revs down below 4k.
dont baby the engine too much, give it bursts of up to 3/4 throttle, like a firm acceleration though the gears but dont go crazy.

I've never dont anything special running in a clutch, just avoid excessive heat buildup, no hard launches or extended traffic jams.

I've always re used head bolts unless they are TTYs which F2T ones are not, suit yourself as to whether you replace them.
 

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When I put my Southbend clutch in, It was wensday and I was racing at the drag track saturday. Over a year and still have no problems

I just put new rings and bearing in my f2t and I have been beating mine to get the rings to seat right, goin great so far.
 

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in regards to motor break in, after I did my rebuild of the bottom end, I beat the piss out of it with my holset. it never hiccuped.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Update

Ok so I pulled the motor and put the new one in. Im still working out a few bugs but It should be running by monday-ish. I took a bunch of pics but here's a few so you get the idea.

The old


and The new


I picked up a dirstibutor from someone on here a while ago and I didn't look at it to closely. When I was trying to figure the spark issue out befor I swapped the motor I swapped distributors. I was wondering will a older non turbo distributor work on a turbo car? looking in the Haynes manual it says that the older mx6's/626's rotate clockwise, not counter clockwise. Here is a pic so that you can see what im talking about.

 
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