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How do i relocate the battery from the engine bay to the trunk? What gauge wire do i use? where should i run the wiring on the exterior or interior? Some detailed instructions would be nice or pics... thanx
 

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ttt somebody help this fellow mx6er
 
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ok the first thing you should do is call summit....they will provide you with a safe box to put it in in your trunk, they will also provide the wires(4 guage) i believe you get 20 ft power and 5 ft ground. just be carfeul. just take the new positive and conect it to the old positive. the drill a hole in your front firewall and run it from behind the pedals back to the trunk. if you have a stereo in your car dont run rca's or remote(lead on) wires on the same side you run the battery's positive. the ground wire to the battery can be connected to any bare metal(preferably a screw) the connect the ground then the new positive. btw, if you dont want to spend your money at summit just go to a hardware store and pick up about 30 feet of 4 guage wire....20 ft in red, then the other 10 ft in black so you can tell the difference. but mount it down so it doesnt roll around and put dents in your trunk.
 
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does the negative need to go all the way front to rear - or just earth really well to the body at the battery and in the bay where the old negative terminal is??
 

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If you are running 2 batteries {for a monster stereo or something} you need a "Magic Box" {I cant think on the name}and you have to wire both the batteries back to it. But if you are just moving it you can just earth it locally to the battery{in the boot}
C-YA
 

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I dissagree, Ive wired up more than one battery in vehicles for stereo applications you dont need no additional things, its possible to wire up both batteries without all the extras

As for battery locations, make sure you mount it in a decent accessable spot, make the ground wire as short as possible to a solid secure part of the chasis.

+ve Connection should be at least 4 Gauge. If your using the batter to power an amp put an inline fuse on the Possitive running from the amp to a fuse distributor block and run smaller cables from the fuse block.

If anything shorts out the fuses are usually the first to blow and make them easily accessable.
 

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If you connect two batteries in parallel without a Voltage/current regulator, you can and probably will over load/burn out your alternator.
Just for arguments sake, imagine you drained your batteries {left the lights on, cranking the stereo at a party or something} but not completely flat, there's still enough to start the engine, when you run the motor it would be like having a completely flat battery, that takes longer to charge up, you would be putting a massive load on your alternator for longer than it was designed for!, that’s the worst case scenario, but it would be happening a little all the time.
It is basically the same as fitting to big a battery.
The best thing to do for more voltage 'grunt' is fit a one fared capacitor, have you ever noticed the lights dip when the bass kicks? Well what the cap does is charges up ...and when there is a heavy draw {ie when the volts drop } it discharges toping up the system..
But you probably all ready know that...
The other thing you have to be mind full of is ventilation for the battery you really don’t wont nasty corrosive vapours wafting about the inside of the car...
Any way excuses me for rambling..
PK
 

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If you were to be using dual batteries you would be stupid to use the standard alternator in the first place...
In every vehicle that Ive installed dual batteries the alternator was replaced with a larger more powerful unit.

Just like when designing a mega system which need lots of spark to pump those sounds you wouldnt dare use your existing alternator, capacitors and larger batteries and thicker cable isnt going to help much when driving down the street and your lights at night are dimming to the beat of your tunes.

Ide think someone would be stupid to add an extra battery and not replace the alternator with a larger more powerful unit.
 

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I dont understand why you want to relocate the battery in the first place. The only reason I've heard of people doing it is to put additional weight in the trunk to assist rear-wheel drive cars in take-off. That or maybe you need a bank of batteries, say you want to put hydraulics on your 6'. . . .
 

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STUPID HEY?
VooDoo said:
I dissagree, Ive wired up more than one battery in vehicles for stereo applications you dont need no additional things, its possible to wire up both batteries without all the extras.
If you were to be using dual batteries you would be stupid to use the standard alternator in the first place...
HMMM ?.....SO DO YOU NEED ADDITIONAL THINGS OR DON'T YOU ?:confused:
 

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Howdy gorrillaballs
In some cold air systems some poeple like to bring the air in from the front left wheel arch {requiring the battery to be moved}..
C-YA
PK
 

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OK P.K. this is what i was thinking, I assume you would instantly change to a larger alternator when adding a second battery.

Because normaly the second battery is added because you dont get enough power from your existing battery and alternator.

So when you say your adding a second battery you would also change the alternator because if the alternator wasnt doing the job with your existing battery how is it possible to do its job in supplying enough power to another foreign device (aka 2nd battery).

If your alternator could supply enough power to the original battery and devices you really wouldnt want to add another battery would you??

By adding the MAGIC ABOX with 2 batteries and no new alternator your still gonna be in the same spot. Magic box isnt needed new stronger alternator is needed.

:E
 

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Granted. If it could supply enough power you wouldn’t need another battery, but we are not talking about a continuous load like spotlights and alike, we are talking about 'monster stereos'. The load from a stereo is pulsating {usually when the bass kicks in}, and the alternators output is constant, which, in the periods with no bass, is enough to keep the batteries topped up!!

BTW: You can upgrade your existing alternator by connecting the regulator in delta {rather than star}. This gives you a higher current output at higher revs {3000 and above}, but it gives you virtually no current at lower revs {from idle to 3000}.
 

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Relocated battery

I have a little safety concern about battery moved to the trunk.
As anyone know ,when running wires trougth the firewall and the coupe you probebly want to add a fuse to prevent a fire in case of a short but where can i find a fuse big anougth to handle the massive amount of current needed by the starter (200-300A)
I dont evev wanna consider to move my battery if i cant fuse the wire from the battery to the engine compartment

A little story:
At a local car stereo contest (NASCA) a guy was told to take his car and dissaper at once by one of the judges why??
The stupid fool had fastened the main power wire from the engine compartment to the trunk with plastic strips to the exhaust system of his car.
 
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