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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have the valve cover off, the exhaust and intake manifolds pulled back, now I need to get the head removed to have it checked for cracks. I have the rocker arms out as well.

What comes out next? camshaft? cam gear?

I'm replacing piston rings also...so that'll be my next area to look into.

I'll be doing as much as I can with hand tools, but if air tools are necessary, I'll be getting them next as well.

There isn't a lot on here regarding HOW to remove this stuff...that's why I'm still asking and looking for advice.
 
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You have to remove the distributor housing and timing housing to get the cam out, but all that isnt neccecesary.

Take off your timing belt, and remove the electrical connections and coolant connections from the distributor housing. You should then be able to remove the head bolts and lift the head off the engine with the two housings attached.

They are easier to remove off (When you take your head to be surfaced) when they are off the engine anyways.
 

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Dont remove anything bolted to the head or inside the head besides of course the intake and exhaust manifolds. If you really do have them pushed back the head should simply lift out after taking out the head bolts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I've got the distributor off, no problems there. I assumed I would need to remove the camshaft to have the head checked, and also figured it would be easier to remove on the car, rather than off, where I'd have less holding it in place.

What would I normally need off the head to have it checked? Or should it be able to be checked with the cam housing, gear, and camshaft on? What about valves?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
About how much should I expect to pay to have the head checked for cracks and surfaced?

And looking for compressors...I noticed 2 electric impact wrenches? Any thoughts on that as opposed to air?
 

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I paid 30 bucks to have my head resurfaced. 50 for the block. I don't know about crack-checking pricing. Shouldnt'd be more than a few bucks extra.

As for the tools.... I've ripped apart a few 6s, Probes, and 626s (at home and in the junkyard) and have yet to "need" power tools. ALthought they do make it easier. If I had to choose, I'd choose the pnuematic tools if money isn't an issue. Elecetric for a budget. But no bolt on yer car should be able to withstand a breaker bar and a little breaker brawn.
 

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Darion said:
But no bolt on yer car should be able to withstand a breaker bar and a little breaker brawn.
In my experience the bolt will break loose or just break, sometimes the bolt breaking is a relief:), sometimes a set-back.:(
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
Head is now off...pictures to follow.

Removed all head bolts in reverse order of installation according to the factory manual, put them in separate baggies, numbered 1-10, beginning with 10 (to use factory manual as reference)

so far, can see some coolant in cylinder #2, oil in head bolt hole #1 (center intake side).

Due to bandwidth, and the fact that the site I use to post pictures directly to message boards is currently not taking uploads, I had to upload the picture to my webpage.

Use the "www" link at the bottom of any of my posts to go there, that's the first place I usually will upload pictures anyhow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Doesn't look like the gasket has a leak anywhere. There is coolant on the cylinder walls, and collected in #2. It looked fresh on the walls, I'm guessing it got there when I was shaking and removing the head.

Go here for pictures
 

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flyswat has a rebuilt head for sale, it may be cheaper to buy that head, then get yours repaired. Get a quote first before gettign the work, then check out flyswats page.
 
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The mating surface of your head is in pretty bad shape, You can see the corrosion on your water lines, it also looks like your exhaust valves are in real bad shape.

The headgasket appears to be leaking out of the center oil passage, and (in the picture at least) looks to have a break between cylinders 3 and 4. If you look at the bottom side of your head, you can see where the coolant and oil have been leaking, marked by stains in the mating surface.

Look carefully for small hairline cracks from your valves to the spark plug opening, if you see these, the head is worthless.

Turn your head over (Valves up) and fill the combustion chambers with gasoline.

I'm guessing its going to leak pretty quickly out your exhaust valves. If it does, your going to need a valve job (Or buy my head, hint hint :D )

Good luck, and make sure you do these checks on the head before you take it so a machine shop so they don't screw you over.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for the analysis, Flyswat.

No visible cracks by the valves. I cleaned it off a bit with some carburetor cleaner. I took some more pictures of the underside of the head, but it didn't look much different on the picture.

I'll do the gasoline check tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
I put gas in like you said. 1st 3 cylinders did fine, not sure if the 4th was leaking or not, because the head rocked a few times, making it go everywhere.

I did discover something...the spark plugs aren't going in all the way. Only ONE of them is in all the way, the other 3 aren't even poking out. Looked at the threading, and it looks like several threads are flattened.

Flyswat...that head, what all is included? Just in case I find that this one needs more work than is practical to get it in good shape.
 
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I'll give you the complete valvetrain (and cam) and a free headgasket.

Pretty much, put it on, put on the distributor and timing gear and drive away :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
My brother suggested rubbing alcohol to do the same thing. I tried that in all 4 as well, and though they all eventually leaked, it took some time, 30 seconds or so, and then it wasn't dripping, just wet the ports.
 
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Out all 3 valve or just the exhaust valve?



This is what the exhaust valve SHOULD look like on a good head :)

This is the head for sale BTW.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
I was mainly looking at the exhaust valves, but yes, all 3 valves eventually leaked.

The head rocked again, this time the 1st cylinder was the one that dumped everywhere. These things don't sit well on bricks, do they? :p

So, the valves should be fuzzy? LOL. I use the function on my camera for close-ups, works pretty well, as you can tell by my pictures. And those are reduced to about 36% original size, and then again reduced by the picture hosting page.
 
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