Mazda MX-6 Forum banner
1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello to ALL:
It has been a long time since I posted on this forum. I still have my 1988 MX6 black GT, purchased it back in 1992. It has about 240,000 miles. It still runs but I've had it parked most of the time since 2008; started it up and drove it around a few times. My son is interested in renovating it.

What are some things you all would advice on doing? For example, I know I have to change the oil, spark plugs, water, brake fluid, air filter, etc. All that was done about 3 years ago, so we will need to redo. I already have the 2 front rotors and brake pads and the fuel filter to replace. Was considering, refurbishing the front calipers and changing out the rubber brake line to the calipers. I noticed that the turbo is not engaging. It was working prior to me parking it back in 2008. What to look for there? Waste gate? oil lines? Seizing?

Also, the rack and pinion is leaking. It will leak all the power steering fluid. Would it be easier to refurbish it, buy a remanufactured one, or new one? Is it an easy fix, easy to remove?
Used to be able to go to the junkyard and find parts, but these cars can no longer be found at any junkyard. What are some good online parts suppliers websites?
I have used PartsGeek, Pelican, RockAuto, and Amazon for other cars. Any other suggestions?

Also, replacing the time belt and the water pump. The times I have tried starting it up, I have replaced the fuel pump 3 times already. The fuel pump has lifetime warranty so I just take it in and get a new one.
I syphoned out all the old gas, smelled like lacquer. Always fueled up with 93 octane when I was driving it.

Any helpful information you all can provide me would be greatly appreciated.

This past weekend replaced the front rotors and brake pads; the fuel filter, gas came out dark brown (checked the gas coming out of the tank and it was clear so it was only the filter)
Drove it around the neighborhood and i did not hear the turbo engaging, so next thing to do is run through a process of checking the turbo and its components...any ideas here?

Wheel Tire Vehicle Car Hood
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,426 Posts
Nice car.

I'm in a similar situation with the car sitting for almost 10 years now. I was really low on gas when I parked it, pretty sure the little gas there is turned into lacquer as well, so I know it's a B to clean the tank after this happens as the valves can get messed up due to the layer of crud due to the old gas.

It would be a good idea to see if the turbine of the turbo in your car spins freely. If it's seized then get it rebuilt.

It's always a good idea to squirt some oil on the moving parts before starting up after such a long time. At least you got it running again. Keep us updated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
blackmx6,
Thank you, about the nice car, I really miss driving my MX6. I went from that car to a BMW 740il. BUT I miss my MX6, it's so nimble and it has an impressive stance.
I have started, off and on, since I had it parked. The longest it has been between starts has been about 2 years. I syphoned out the old gas the first time, it was spoiled. I don't think people realize that gasoline has a shelf life of about 1-2 years then it goes bad, by design. I told my son that was our next step, to see if the turbine was free to spin and then I was going to check the oil lines to it. Does the turbo also have waterlines go into it? Can the wastegate be tested? So the rats got to the timebelt cover and the alternator belt. We tried starting it and it ran until the alternator belt snapped and it caused the timing to slip a few cog teeth. Well we reset the timing marks (OHC and CRANKSHAFT), and it started right up. Anyways, 10 years is a longer time; suggest changing out the fuel filter also. We also found out that the sunroof seal failed and we got moisture inside that later turned into mold. We were able to clean it out. Cleaned out the sunroof seal and unclogged the sunroof drains (compressed air) and we placed painters tape on the outside to minimize the amount of water going through the bad sunroof seal. Rack and pinion was leaking from one of the seals...can you get it rebuilt? I really need to get a pressure washer so I can wash the undercarriage after spraying it with several brake cleaner sprays.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,731 Posts
All gasoline goes bad but in a car that is being stored or only driven occasionally it is important to use premium gas that contains ZERO % ethanol, ethanol mixed fuel turns to varnish much faster than pure gas and makes a thicker, gummier paste than gas.
The wategate can be tested, disconnect the wastegate hose at the compressor housing and apply 10psi to the hose, the wastegate should open and stay opened.

Call your local rack and pinion rebuild shops and see if they can rebuild it, there are no new or remand racks for sale for these cars anywhere.
 
  • Like
Reactions: blackmx6

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Mazda Carnage,
I will test the wastegate and see if it is working. I will also check with my mechanic about getting the rack&pinion rebuilt.

Do any of you know where the hose coming out of the bottom of the charcoal canister goes to?
White Product Organ Gesture Font
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,426 Posts
There's a round opening on the top of the passenger side black metal skid plate.
It has a round opening where there should be a round white plastic push type retainer that has a thin hose connected to it. That goes to the charcoal canister. Many times that piece flies off or it snaps from the connecting part to the canister. Good luck hope this helps 🤞
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I recall, many years ago, driving the car down the highway and hearing something underneath, near the passenger side. I did not hit anything and i did not see anything in the rear view mirror. I knew that something had fallen from the car and I anticipated the warning lights coming on but nothing did. It was months later when I was changing the oil filter that I noticed the hose going nowhere and just dangling there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
If you ever have to drain the fuel again remember that there's a drain plug in the bottom of the tank on these cars. Also, once you get it running, expect it to run poorly for what could be days as the car settles back in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
If you ever have to drain the fuel again remember that there's a drain plug in the bottom of the tank on these cars. Also, once you get it running, expect it to run poorly for what could be days as the car settles back in.
WHAT??!!! there is a Freaking Gas Tank Drain PLUG!!!???, WoW, if I would have known this, I would not have had to "swished" my mouth with old gasoline when syphoning out the gas!!..thank you for letting me know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,731 Posts
If you run a full tank of 93 octane and a quality fuel system cleaner you shouldn't have any issues with the bad gas, the resin in the tank is still going to pass through the injectors, even if you change them.

On the 88-89 F2's you can change the injectors without removing the upper part of the intake manifold. It is a awkward spot to work in and requires effort to remove and reinstall the injectors, bolts, spacers and clamps but it can be done.

On the passenger side of the intake manifold there is a triangular bracket bolted between the upper and lower manifold, remove it.
Take long curved tip needle nose pliers and remove the two hose clamps from the rubber hose on the fuel return line (just move them off the rubber so they are floating on the pipe.
Remove the 10mm head bolt holding the return pipe in place behind the fuel rail. (10mm swivel head ratchet wrench) The return pipe should have some play now.
Remove the two 12mm head bolts holding the fuel rail to the intake manifold. (12mm swivel head ratchet wrench).
Remove the two black plastic spacers between the rail and manifold.
raise the fuel rail until the tips of the injectors are out of the intake ports, 1,2 and 3 are easy, #4 will require pushing the rail against the manifold with a small pry bar and tugging the tip of the injector out of the manifold port. Remove #4 last.
Install #4 first, than 3,2,1... and put everything back together in the reverse order it was removed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
837 Posts
Yes, there is! Often it will be covered by what looks like some type of undercoating that reminds me almost of RTV (might be) but the plug is there. Usually, with cars that I mess with I drain all of the gas out of the tank and then backflush the lines as best I can. It's mess, but seems to work although it could be construed as overkill.

WHAT??!!! there is a Freaking Gas Tank Drain PLUG!!!???, WoW, if I would have known this, I would not have had to "swished" my mouth with old gasoline when syphoning out the gas!!..thank you for letting me know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
92 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
If you run a full tank of 93 octane and a quality fuel system cleaner you shouldn't have any issues with the bad gas, the resin in the tank is still going to pass through the injectors, even if you change them.

On the 88-89 F2's you can change the injectors without removing the upper part of the intake manifold. It is a awkward spot to work in and requires effort to remove and reinstall the injectors, bolts, spacers and clamps but it can be done.

On the passenger side of the intake manifold there is a triangular bracket bolted between the upper and lower manifold, remove it.
Take long curved tip needle nose pliers and remove the two hose clamps from the rubber hose on the fuel return line (just move them off the rubber so they are floating on the pipe.
Remove the 10mm head bolt holding the return pipe in place behind the fuel rail. (10mm swivel head ratchet wrench) The return pipe should have some play now.
Remove the two 12mm head bolts holding the fuel rail to the intake manifold. (12mm swivel head ratchet wrench).
Remove the two black plastic spacers between the rail and manifold.
raise the fuel rail until the tips of the injectors are out of the intake ports, 1,2 and 3 are easy, #4 will require pushing the rail against the manifold with a small pry bar and tugging the tip of the injector out of the manifold port. Remove #4 last.
Install #4 first, than 3,2,1... and put everything back together in the reverse order it was removed.
Thank you Carnage...I was looking at the repair manual and it seemed like quite a chore to remove all the parts above the fuel rail. So I will drive the car over to the Exxon and fill up the tank with 93 octane gas. What quality fuel system cleaner do you recommend?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,731 Posts
Chevron Techron Concentrate Plus Fuel System Cleaner.
Not Chevron Techron fuel injector cleaner (different product, not very strong).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Pretty much every Mazda of that era was indestructible and underappreciated. No clue why everyone gravitated toward Nissan and Honda; I'd argue Mazda was actually putting out the best products at the time, but only the Miata really got any love.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top