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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
G'day,

I have been considering changing the F2T head to a worked FE 8valve head and have been doing plenty of research and thinking about it. i found in an earlier post that the head studs and water jackets all line up, Im wondering if the timing gear will match.

I am still considering this, as most engines go harder with a smaller, more worked head. (265 with 245 head, 360 with 340 heads, 202 with 186 head, need I go on?)

So anyone that could give me GENUINE advice would be appreciated.

Thanks :D
 

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I'm not sure about the engines you've mentioned....they are all old skool V8's right?

Thinking purely in terms of airflow...you want the head that will flow the most possible air. I would imagine the 12v F2T head would flow more than the 8v FE head. If you are going to work the head, why not just work the F2T head?

I guess if you're really keen, you could flow test both the FE 8v head, and the F2T 12v head both stock, and see which is a better starting point?

But in reality, are you at the edge of the limits of the F2T's head flow? How much power are you chasing?

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
265 and 245 are Hemi 6's

340 and 360 are Mopar V8's (I Guess you can tell Im a mopar fan!)

202 and 186 are holden 6's

This theory of smaller head - stroked block has proven results, although it will probably bump the compression up a bit (Ill compensate with the head gasket)

The 8 valve FE has much thicker ports to allow more work to be done, while retaining strength to rev it a bit harder with good valve springs to cope.

Bottom line is...... I probably could get the same results with the F2T head, but I like doing things a bit differently. I guess this is why I have this engine in a van.... But Im still weighing up the options to decide if I will do it.
 

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Thats also like putting 302 heads on a 351 v8.
works well and go likes hell due to the comp ratio being up the area of 10:1 and higher.

then they blow the engine due to the high comp ratio.

i think if you we're going ot do any head swap and wor kit as awell, make sure your bottom end is bulletproof before you start running high boost levels.

but you sound like you know what your on about, so good luck :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah my idea is to get a little bit more compression and advance the timing a bit, see how that goes.

Can anyone answer my original question of the timing gear matching? I know the top gear is identical in diameter and teeth, i just have to check that the belts are the same number and surely that will give me the OK that they will match. I cant think of anything else standing in my way!!

Am I sounding crazy to anyone yet?
 

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Studtly said:
I cant think of anything else standing in my way!!
Except logic.


Studtly said:
Am I sounding crazy to anyone yet?
Where's the "wave" smiley when you need it?
Using the other heads you mentioned only had advantages of raising compression. If that's what you want skim your block or head, or get your head welded up, but don't reduce flow more than it is already. What's wrong with just giving a MBC another click?
 

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:wave:

Here it is Crusty ;)

And ditto for me too...

You're going to a heck of a lot of trouble to try and get a little compression and timing advance.

I'd concentrate on getting the F2T working better, little more boost, different turbo, etc etc etc

Pete
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
thanks for the constructive criticism guys :D

Ill let you know how I go, and what I decide to do. There are also other reasons why I am doing this, which will all be reavealed in good time!
 
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