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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Guy came to my house last night with his '93 LS (stock ECU, stock engine, 131k miles and he's owned it since 123k) in hopes I'd notice something specific was wrong with the car because he's tested most things already. Here's the symptoms....

Above 30-40mph, the car drives strong while on the throttle. While coasting or at a constant throttle, the car shakes quite a bit. The coasting shake is lessened when the engine is cold, which makes sense as it doesn't slow down the same while cold (doesn't cut fuel).

Since this has started, he checked the ball joints and tie rods, discovering one outer tie rod was bad. That's been changed.

Prior to the shaking, about 6 months ago, he changed front LCA bushings, but not the rears. He said he just pulled the LCA out and pushed the bushing in (possibly with a C-Clamp, I forget). That strikes me as odd because I would think the rear bushing would keep from letting you pull it out far enough to change the front. This is making me think maybe the rear LCA bushing was/is bad and has finally gotten bad enough to cause a shake.

The strut mounts seem okay... I bounced the car with the hood open and the strut did not move at all within the mount.

CV boots are not torn.

The shake is vibrated through the steering and is NOT RPM or gear dependent. Can put it in neutral and rev while it's happening, the shaking does not change aside from shaking like you're coasting instead of shaking like you're decelerating.

Swaybar endlinks are attached and look fine. I can't speak of the bushings on the firewall through.

I confirmed all 4 tires still have their weights. He did hit a big pot hole early last week, but it was fine until just 2 days ago and he's put 140'ish miles no it since that pot hole.

Thoughts anyone? Something I'm obviously missing? The car is not drivable on the highway at this point.
 

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Are his rotors warped? I went nuts trying to find why my car was doing the same thing until I changed something as simple as my rotors. Also jack the car up, remove the tire (fronts) and wiggle the hub while checking to see if there is any play in the control arms. Just in case the bushings were done improperly. Hope this helps.
 

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I confirmed all 4 tires still have their weights. He did hit a big pot hole early last week, but it was fine until just 2 days ago and he's put 140'ish miles no it since that pot hole.
I would still have that wheel balanced bud and check a weight has not fallen off since the pot hole. Also when its on the balancing machine, you will be able to see if its warped in any way from the pot hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here's an update.

After the guy left my house a couple nights ago, he went into a parkinglot to do some figure 8's and donuts (not sliding, just full turn going around in circles). It clicked badly after a couple times around for a few more... then stopped entirely.

No longer shakes.

So it would seem it's the CVs after all, regardless of fine boots. I'd suspect the PO changed the boots a little too long after they had torn the last time (assuming they've ever been changed)... or just natural failure due to age / mileage.
 

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heres a common thing

not sure where you guys are, but sometimes you get some snow on the inside of your rim and throws the wheel weight for a loop. It can last up to three days or more if its really cold out.

i had a highway shake really bad at about 60mph with the same symptoms, independent of gear, rpm, steering. I figured it was snow and cleaned my rims out and she was golden

also, i've put in rebuilt cv joints that click right out of the box. even the one i put in last year already clicks but only if i have the wheel absolutely cranked....so i just avoid that...i certainly don't feel like doing a drivers side axle for the third time. it works fine so i'm not going to bother doing it again
 
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