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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok, I have a question for you. Don't know if you can help me, but I am hoping someone on here will have some knowledge of this and maybe some insight as to what is wrong. I had a no-win situation here. I had raced a Mustang GT and was coming up to a red light. (I beat the Mustang) I hit my brakes and nothing. All this happened in a split-second. I thought I have two choices here, either hit traffic going accross the street or downshift into 2nd going 80MPH. Well, I don't want to hit someone, so I downshifted into 2nd. Well, the tach maxed out at 8000RPM's. It still runs, but sounds weird sometimes now. I replaced all 4 plugs, cap and rotor that very day. Tried that, just in case. Not it. When on boost I can feel it hesitating sometimes, like I'll have it floored, and it'll be ok, then I can feel it lagging for a sec, then it stops, then does it again, very irraticly though. But it sounds funny all the time, all RPM's I mean, even before turbo spools up. I don't know what I did. Some suggestions I have had from friends are 1: I messed up my valves; 2: Bent my turbos impeller, or fan, whatever it is called; 3: blew my turbo seals.. What do you guys think? None of the people who told me these things have turbo cars, all have Honda's, actually. (damn Honda's) Please help me if you can, I don't know what is wrong. I am afraid it may be something really bad, but can't seem to find a shop that I trust. I get mechs. telling me this and that, and trying to rip me off. My usual mech. doesn't work with upgraded cars. He does everything, just won't doesn't know about cars like mine with aftermarket stuff done to it. He won't touch it. Please help me!!! Thanks.
 

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First off I think you did the right thing by shifting into 2nd...good quick thinking there.

The people who told you the turbo is screwed don't know jack about turbos obviously. Forget about that, the turbo is not mechanically connected to the engine in any way...

I think you have a valve train problem. Take off your valve cover and look for broken bits...like springs or rockers. I don't know exactly what would break first but I'm pretty sure it would be the valvetrain that would snap. I believe the internal parts of these motors are strong enough not to break during a quick spin to 8000 rpm.

Another thing to check is your timing belt. It might have stretched going so fast and skipped a tooth.
 

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I would post this over on probetalk if you have not already; reason being that you might get a wider range of responces. Not really sure what would happen.
 

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Was your E-brake not working? Why didn't you use that instead of downshifting? Just curious. Probably would have been a better way to go.
 

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From my personal experience - 80mph and ebreak = car out of control. (at least if you pull up to fast - never tried it again slow :))
 
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Instead of taking the engine apart, with my novice experience, I would try to do a compression check on each of the cylinders. This will let you know a little more about the shape your valves are in. Does the car emit any blue smoke from the exhaust? If so that would indicate engine damage, but the range of damage might be another avenue. good luck.......
 

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What was wrong with the brakes that they totally wouldn't work for you? You didn't mention whether you got it fixed? All four corners failed? I sure wouldn't want to drive that car anymore. That's a HUGE problem that I'm sure you don't want happening again.

Personally, I think you're goona need some major engine work. The engine is not made to take that kind of stress. I have heard of a guy absolutely demolishing an engine in a brand new Integra Type R by accidentally shifting into 2nd instead of 4th on the highway while racing.

Oh, one more thing. You're telling me you beat a Mustang GT in your '88 Turbo? Sounds fishy to me, unless the 'stang was bone stock and had a crappy driver.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ok, first off it was a previous gen Mustang GT, not one of the new ones, and I am running right on 12psi of boost. We were both going about 10mph when we hit it. I just plain whooped his *ss. I have beaten others of the same generation. Now, the reason my brakes failed was b/c (as I found out) I had a leak in my rear left brake caliper. I guess it had been leaking out, and when I slammed em on there just wasn't enough fluid left to make the brakes work. I eased it to my house, and have since got a used caliper, and had to put new pads on the front, they were just gone. (Axxis metal master pads, by the way). I now have good brakes, and have driven the car approx. 300miles in this condition. On a side note, I used to rev my 92 Protege to 8000rpms all the time the same way I did this car, never had any probs with it. It was a 1.8L SOHC. I am pretty sure something in my valvetrain is messed up, as someone else has already posted to this message. I don't have any smoke coming out, so nothing major is broken. I think I may have bent a valve or something. If I had broken a rocker or something, wouldn't I now have pieces of it floating around in my engine? Well, not now, oil filter is there, but you should get the idea. (Actually, come to think of it, I should look into my filter and check for that) Well, anymore help will be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone.
 

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First of all Magik, Mustang GT's are slow. I've beaten lots, including my brother with a 90 GT with BBK cold air intake, Flowmasters with 2.5 inch pipes and H pipe, and Jacob's Electronics Ultra Team ignition. If you can't beat one and you're turboed, then you don't know how to drive, or your car is a P.O.S. Know what you're talking about before you post.
Second, I'd guess something with the valvetrain too. The valve cover is easy to take off, just ten 10mm bolts holding it on. I think if something was that wrong, you'd see it. If there are pieces of metal, they'll get stopped by the screen in the oil pan. They won't get up into the engine unless they're small enough to go through the screen and the oil filter. I dropped an HLA <long story> and a washer that goes with the head bolts into the oil passage in my engine, and they're still there as far as I know.
And don't let these guys give you any shit about dropping it a gear instead of doing this, or doing that. You acted quickly and probably avoided an accident, so, you did the right thing as far as I'm concerned.
 

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First of all Magik, Mustang GT's are slow. I've beaten lots, including my brother with a 90 GT with BBK cold air intake, Flowmasters with 2.5 inch pipes and H pipe, and Jacob's Electronics Ultra Team ignition. If you can't beat one and you're turboed, then you don't know how to drive, or your car is a P.O.S. Know what you're talking about before you post.
Well, I'm not doubting that you beat him Texas, but I have seen some damn fast modded 4.6 and 5.0L mustangs (sub-10 second quarter mile!).... so I wouldn't say they're ALL slow.... especially the newer Cobras (96+ has 305-320hp stock!)
 

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I'll 2nd or 3rd the opinion of shoving it into 2nd gear, even if it would have blown out the tranny!

Metal is worthless compared to human life! Good job.

Well, it is DEFINETLY a valvetrain problem. I doubt you broke any thing, I'd be willing to bet you messed up the valve springs...they'll go usually before any thing else.

Before doing anything, do a compression test--that is pretty easy to do, all you need is a compression guage with the appropriate fitting to screw into the spark plug hole.

Let us know!
 
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