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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I just had my mx towed home. I was driving along and all of a sudden the engine starts running like diarrhea so i pull over and look under the hood, sure enough the spark plug second from the distributor is dangling by itself....i had noticed when the engine was running before that the plug would shake around looking a little crooked and make a ticking noise, and when i would make a little tension on the wire as to straighten it the noise would go away. so something isn't right down there.

i guess you could say its good timing since my mechanic wants my car at 8:30am (6 hours from now lol) as he was going to fix my 'half shaft' to stop the crunching noise i posted about like last year .... he also seems to think it's the source of a jolt that comes from going on or off the throttle. but hes going to have a suprise when i show up with a tow truck tomorrow :angel:

so uhh. what do you guys think? is this something major or...just a loose spark plug?
 

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Sounds like you had one that was cross threaded and blew itself out, it happened to me in my first GT and sounded like a cannon going off. I would check the threads on that hole and go from there.
 

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Sounds like they never tight the spark plug down ,with all the vibration it started to turn around working his way out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I was downstairs waiting for my mechanic to roll around today and I had this one guy passing by ( apartment complex, lots of foot traffic) and he noticed me just standing by my car waiting so next thing you know this random guy comes out with his tools and tries to put the plug back in for me. so with him standing over the hood I tried to start it and the thing just shot right back out, and the plug came flying out of the boot and across the parking lot, almost hitting the guy in the face, that could've been a pretty serious injury but I'm pretty darn sure the threads are stripped. and now my mechanic has to go back and forth between his shop and my parking lot, apparently he says he can fix the threads, I heard him say something about a tappet, and some grease, lol I wasn't fully listening im so damn tired. anyway just an update for anyone who may care, also siflyby i may take you up on those helicoils but I want to see what happens by the end of today.
 

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There is no way to Helicoil a whole on the head ON the car! All the metal debris into the combustion area is bad joo-joo!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
^^Time for a new head!:(
fack!!! any estimate on what these may go for, and where i could get one, i'd like a nice port+polish if i'm going to replace the head.

I love my mx but is it worth it? im totally bum for money right now. I dunno what to think. My mechanic still seems to think he can fix it, apparently hes got some tool coming in and I have to wait till tomorrow so he can fix it and drive it up to his place. :shrug:
 

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fack!!! any estimate on what these may go for, and where i could get one, i'd like a nice port+polish if i'm going to replace the head.

I love my mx but is it worth it? im totally bum for money right now. I dunno what to think. My mechanic still seems to think he can fix it, apparently hes got some tool coming in and I have to wait till tomorrow so he can fix it and drive it up to his place. :shrug:
Well, there's two things that could be done to fix the plug hole (as long as the hole isn't too messed up). It can either be heli-coiled, or your mechanic could use an insert. Inserts aren't as reliable, but they do work.

As for a head, there's usually at least a couple for sale here on MX6.com, or you can try ebay. Your cheapest option would probably be to try and find a good one in a junkyard.

The labor on the head itself to fix it and make sure it's good for installation, could run from $400-$600. The actual labor if you pay someone else to install it, could run you another $500-$700 easily.

If you really love the car, then it's worth it to pony up and get it fixed. If you just need transportation, then you could find another car for as much as repairs will cost.
 

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OK lady's.
You can Helicoil a spark plug hole with the head still on the car and you don't need a new head.

Darrez
Your mechanic thinks he can fix it because it can be fixed.

Here is how it's done:
Spark plug repair - Google Video

Because your head is still on the car your mechanic should remove the valve cover and back off both rocker assembly's (to make sure all the valve are shut).

He should put the car in neutral and turn the crank (with a 21mm socket) until the piston is about 1 1/2" away from TDC, then take brake cleaner with a long nozzle and spray the face and edges of the piston and piston wall through the spark plug hole, then move the piston 1/2" higher.
With a compressor and a long nose air wand, blast air into the spark plug hole to dry up the cylinder.
After threading the hole (before installing the insert), wear goggles and insert the air wand nozzle back in the spark plug hole all the way to the back of the piston face and cylinder wall and blast the aluminum bits out.
If you want to be extra careful take a small piece of rubber line and duck tape it to the nozzle of a shop vac and suck out the inside of the cylinder.

Install the insert then air blast (and and shop vac) again.

Helicoils will let exhaust escape around the threads.
 

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OK lady's.
You can Helicoil a spark plug hole with the head still on the car and you don't need a new head.

Darrez
Your mechanic thinks he can fix it because it can be fixed.

Here is how it's done:
Spark plug repair - Google Video

Because your head is still on the car your mechanic should remove the valve cover and back off both rocker assembly's (to make sure all the valve are shut).

He should put the car in neutral and turn the crank (with a 21mm socket) until the piston is about 1 1/2" away from TDC, then take brake cleaner with a long nozzle and spray the face and edges of the piston and piston wall through the spark plug hole, then move the piston 1/2" higher.
With a compressor and a long nose air wand, blast air into the spark plug hole to dry up the cylinder.
After threading the hole (before installing the insert), wear goggles and insert the air wand nozzle back in the spark plug hole all the way to the back of the piston face and cylinder wall and blast the aluminum bits out.
If you want to be extra careful take a small piece of rubber line and duck tape it to the nozzle of a shop vac and suck out the inside of the cylinder.

Install the insert then air blast (and and shop vac) again.
You are right, the repair can be done with the head still on because mine was repaired in that fashion by my local mazda dealer. The main thing was that you have to in a way flush as much of the debris out of the hole as possible.
 
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