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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Alright my car is a 91 mx6 lx. It came with pyle audio speakers all the way around which are fine. I'm going to buy two dual voice coil 1600w lanzar vibes (12") and put them in a sealed box. I am just about to order a panasonic head unit, with a pyle audio 4000w mono channel amp. I don't plan to use the full potential of it. But the price is right for the amp. In addition, I'm fairly certain that this amp is dramastically overrated to maybe 3000w's peak power at very most.

My problem is that I am unsure about what to do about my stock electrical system. I researched about caps and it seems that they wouldn't really benefit me unless I have everything else sorted out. I am going to get a better battery soon as I get the money. It will be atleast a month or two before the system actually goes into the car so I have time to buy the needed stuff. Also I have a 4 gauge wiring kit for everything. I'm wondering is there anything else I should look into that might help? Does anyone know if dual batterys would benefit me or would they be a waste of time? Also I do have one question about a capacitor that I have found; it says it's 3.0 farad. Do you know if that would be big enough to handle the amount of power that the amp would draw?
 

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well the amp is more like 150 watts RMS (being TRUE RMS power), 600 peak.
"4000 peak" if a bolt of lightning from Zeus himself strikes it.
The subs are about 200-300 RMS too. It CAN handle 1600 peak watts, if only for a millisecond, nothing more really.

All in all the Pyle amp will draw about 25-40 amps, at its continuous highest possible output. Which is well within what your cars alt. can dish out. No you absolutely do not need dual batteries if you seriously plan on running that set-up.
May as well skip on the power capcitors as well, as the aid they give to the amplifier will not be required by the amp, as it does not have the dynamic headroom to make use of what benefit a capacitor can offer.

EDIT: come to think of it, I didn't fully answer the question.

- yes a 4 gauge wiring kit is plenty for that amp in question
- even a weak battery is fine for that amp, as its power draw will be minimal. Dont waste your money furthermore, as you seem to be doing that enough already with smashing quality components such as Pyle to begin with. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks guess I'll just take the money and and buy a better amp. Do you know where I can find instructions with pictures on how to wire two dual voice coil (4-ohm) subs down to 2-ohms? I am looking but can't find a complete guide.

Thanks for the help again.
 

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Sure, I'll answer that tommorow, I have to run out the door really quickly, but i'll answer that then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Umm I cant find where to edit my post. According to pyle the amp which is a PLA4300D it is 400w rms at 4-ohm, 700w at 2-ohm, and 1200w rms at 1.3-ohm. I know you said that it would be only 200-300w real rms but do you think it would be more if wired at 2-ohms?

Sorry for the double post.
 

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^:lol: no I dont. I'll even tell you how to measure it yourself, so you can verify the numbers yourself. :tup:
Welcome to the wonderfully splendid world of car audio, where everybody and anybody can potentially lie to inflate whatever numbers they choose to, all in the manner of selling units. Its an amazing business model.
:lol:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Cool deal. Yea I figured it would be pretty much trial and error kind of deal. I'm just looking for a direction to get started with. My brother has an account on here as well, he has two kicker CVR's and just bought a hifonics brutus or w/e amp. He is not to helpful since I don't trust my money to be tested with his "claimed" knowlege.
 

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^ I'm against Pyle, Pyramid, Legacy, Sherwood, Swiss audio, Rockwood, Mobile Authority, Jensen, Audiobahn and a couple other brands. Some of those said brands are divisions of a parent company, as in Legacy, Pyle and Pyramid are the same thing, but with slightly different models between the divisional brands, and different exteriors. A lot of them share the same internal circuitry. For the subs you'll see the same sub re badged amongst the divisions.

I find they all very very heavily inflate numbers to create sales, which is very unethical to me, and is difficult to work with as without testing them of their capabilities, its impossible to properly determine what they're possible of, and how to do a decent job configuring a system without doing lots of guesswork.

Everybody has their favorite brands, Some people LOVE Kicker, others like Rockford, some like Pioneer, i have my favorite brands too... but all in all, if you want a great amp that has a great bang for the buck, stick with MTX amps, or Kicker. Alpine makes decent amps too.
You really can't go wrong with anything those companies offer, either present day products or products of many years gone past.
I myself still use a Kicker amp from 1992.

Just go with that. The Lanzar subs really aren't too good, but if they're available to you and at a reasonable cost, you may as well go that route. However there are many many many other subs out there that will offer a better deal if you want both sound quality, and a set-up that packs a wallop.
I'd say keep looking for better stuff. You get what you pay for, honestly. Pyle is very cheap for a reason, please trust me on that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah after reading your post I seen a deal on two kicker comps for 100 dollars so I bought them. I wish I could reward you with something except money or I'd be broke by the time I asked all of my questions.
 

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^ :lol: its fine buddy, dont worry about it, I dont mind taking the time to help people.
Keep your money. ;)
 

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^ Its really really hard to tell without the actual performance specs on these.
To be able to tell EXACTLY, I'd need very hard to find specs, called the T/S parimeters. T/S is short for Thiele & Small. Basically the last names of the two pioneers of audio that created proper ways of measuring characteristics of a speakers design & performance.
With those I can put the specs into a program I have on my computer and graph out exactly (with pin point accuracy) of exactly how it'll perform in any given possible box.

Without those specs, I can't do any of that, merely speculate.
The Clarions have an extra 75 watts of RMS power handling, so on a very poorly educated guess I'd say the Clarions would.
However there are countless things that need to be taken into consideration, such as how low the subwoofer is capable of going (in ANY box), or many other things. To look at its power handling and try to guess from there is foolish in all honesty, since its like saying, would a 12cylinder engine have more power output then a 10cyl engine? Who knows without any further data. It would just be a guess.
If you can find the T/S parimeters, then send them to me VIA PM and I'll crunch some numbers and come up with the best possible box design for both subs (or how to improve your existing box for the best SQ and output), and better be able to answer the question.
For the T/S parimeters, I'd suggest emailing the companies tech department, since as of about 4 years ago they started the trend of not posting the numbers.

EDIT: oh yeah, its pointless to draw it out until I know what amp you'll be using, and what subs you end up getting. If you're planning on DVC 4ohm subs (and two of them of either manufacterer) and already have an amp, sure I'll do it but until I know what your planning on using, Its kind of a waste of time since what I can take the time to draw may not be used depending on the configuration.
 

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Clarion Canada | APX1300

Thats my amplifier for my subs, nothing but clarion gets pumped outta my mx6 lol.

It has 2 sets of posi/nega terminals. currently my sonys are SVC so its just:


Im confused with the DVC wiring, as all wiring diagrams i find online only have one set of posi/nega terminals on the amp, but mine has 2
 

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^ I find that very odd that your amp suppossedly has two sets of outputs, as it says right on the website that its a monoblock amp.

:confused: If you could take a close up picture of both sets of speaker outputs, like I say thats really odd,
:shrug:
Actually re-reading that, it says there is a "speaker level input" on it, so that must be what it is, as in: in the event of an install where there are no RCA's to use, you can potentially hook a speaker up to it, and use the live full power speaker to provide the signal for the amp to amplify.
Perhaps mistakenly using that input to hook your sub into might be what you've been doing.

its odd that for a monoblock amp it can't do below 2 ohms it seems.
hmmmm..... this really isn't making too much sense at all.

Anyway, those subs are essentially 375 watts RMS each, with both coils in parallel doing a 2 ohm load, your amp can dish out a max of 400 RMS, at 2 ohms.
Seems like the best bet is to just use one sub, or stick with your current Sony's.
Since the amp can't do below 2 ohms, your only other option is to run a hybrid series/parallel circuit of which I spoke of helping that other guy. In that case I can show you how using a drawing, but with two subs, you'll do either 4 ohms or 1 ohm. You can't do both and run 2 ohms on a single channel amp. Since your amp will dish out only 300 RMS into 4 ohms, I dont see the merit of having 750 watts of available power that your subs can handle, only being fed by a 300 watt RMS amp.

EDIT: hmm... actually you can get away with both subs running a 2 ohm load, but you'd do that by only using one of the two coils on each sub, so with that, you'd end up using both subs to present a 2 ohm load, but that still doesn't fix the serious power issue, as that amp is nowhere near capable of pushing both subs properly.
 

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Yea, i thought it was weird to, but ive been running it like that for 2 years and it seems fine. I just took pictures but it wont upload...

But ya it says mono input then it goes + + - - right under it.

I think you bridge the 2 together to make it 2 ohms or something? i dont know

Anyways, ive never had a problem with a "lack" of power to subs.

Also, at bottom of that amp page it says:

"

CEA 2006 Power Ratings

500W x 1RMS [2Ω@14.4V ≤1% THD+N]

300W x 1RMS [4Ω@14.4V ≤1% THD+N]

S/N 68dB (Ref:1W into 4Ω)
"
 

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well send the pics to my email at Gmonette (at) canada.com and I'll take a look and have a better understanding of what to do.
 
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