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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
93 MX6 LS
A few days ago I went to a junk yard and picked up myself some JL audio speakers which were in excellent condition silk tweeter, and a flexible cone for like 15 bucks, JL Audio TR570-CX 5"x7"/6"x8" 2-Way 100W Car Speakers these right here. So after all that I took apart my door panel and installed the speaker screwed everything back in place and put the panel back (left front). Now I put some music on and the speaker doesn't have much bass response at all, and is also lacking in the mid/high range. Not sure what the problem is, my front right stock speaker is kickin' ass over there and this JL sounds nothing like my stock one.

And I can't figure out which wire is positive or negative. I've tried both ways and they sound almost identical.



I have an Alpine CDA-9884, also some subs in the trunk.

Also the speaker isn't as loud as the others.
 

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those JL speakers are more than likely rated for way more power than your radio puts out. They are also probably 4ohm speakers vs. the 8ohm speaker that normaly come in cars.

The reason your stock sounds better is because they require a lower RMS wattage than the JL's. If you were to power them with a smaller 4 channel amp from wal-mart or some other place they would sound great. Thats the problem with upgrading your speaker though. 9 out of 10 times the speakers that work are retarded in the amount of power they produce. If you had a stock 40 watt speaker you want something close to that. if its a 40 watt and you put in like 300 watt peak...probably what those are, they sound like a banjo. Make sense? Tiny penis doesn't work well with the XXL condom ;)
 
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I forget what wire is which, but usually on domestic build vehicles, the "blah" colour (tan, brown, black, etc) is usually the positive lead. The actual colour wire (red, blue, green, etc) is negative.

If your replacing all the speakers in the car at some point, it wont matter which wires you use, as long as you use the same wiring idea around the car to keep things in phase. If you reverse one, you have to do the rest the same for example.
 

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It's odd that only one speaker sounds worse than the others. Try swapping with another to see if the weak sound moves to the other speaker.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Eh anyways, they're just being underpowered I tried both in the doors and no difference. I'm just going to get an Alpine power pack, it's much stronger than the built in amplifier. It actually sounds pretty sickkkkk. Anyway guys what should I get for speakers? I noticed the stock tweeters sound terrible and are pretty much inaudible... So I wanted to put those JL's in the rear, and maybe get a component system. Any idea's?
 

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Power pack, so its kind of a simple plug and play version of a typical 4ch amp? interesting. Alpine & JL have quite a variety of signal processing equipment.

Its just those two companies that make that sort of stuff now. Back in the early to mid 1990's, that said variety of equipment was made by over 20 different companies... interesting.

Yeah your car is a 1993. For just the 1993 & 1994 model years: Mazda used these paper dome tweeters in the front. Problem is, ( untreated) Paper cone speakers in a car is a horrendous idea as they soon found out. For 1995 They changed them to a mylar composite tweeter. That doesn't do much for you though.

In a few short years, the tweeters succumed to the moisture in the air, and the paper cone distorted to an unusable state. So yeah 16 years later It doesn't surprise me the tweeters are all shot. Id leave them there, and install tweeters that FACE you directly.
The old idea of the sound bouncing off the windshield was much like Communism: It worked in theory.

However when the sound bounces off of object, QUITE a few things happen to it that I wont get into as they're very complicated to explain, and it'll over-whelm you.
Basically long LONG story short, yes replace them but with ones that face you directly, as the higher frequency the sound is: the more directional it becomes.
The crossover type/octave slope going to the tweeter also determines that.
-A 24db/octave slope will give you VERY directional sound, a 45 degree dispersion pattern.
-A 6db/octave slope (VERY rare in car audio) will give you a HUGE 180degree sound dispersion pattern, which greatly enhances your options towads mounting the said tweeters.
 

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Note: The factory radio circuit needs to be a minimum of 15A. If it is not, a separate power and ground will need to installed for the KTP-445.
Hmm... at first the 15amp requirements sure raised my eyebrow, as at PERFECT 100% effeciency, for 180 watts of collective output, they'd need exactly 15 amps. Just odd, as nothing in audio is 100% effecient.
:shrug:

Check out the Lanzar 6x8's. You wont need any additional tweeters for them.
Earthquake also makes a great 6x8's. A bit more mellow sounding then Lanzars you'll find.
 

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^520 watts :rolleyes:
Yeah thats them. Lanzar used to make great stuff, now they're crap. Their speakers are still somewhat good, but a shadow of how good they used to be many many years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sweet, they're pretty cheap too. Anyways, you have any way to explain how they sound? hahaha, I just want something that's gonna hit the notes I'm not gonna hear with just any speaker. If these are them then I'm gonna get them asap.
 

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^Ya Lanzar made great stuff. I had an old Lanzar comp 12 that I plugged into the wall and then eventually put in my g/f's car. Worked great, even up to the point when we took it out to install my old Image Dynamics IDQ. Today, I can't say much though as I don't know.

As far as Bose stuff is considered, they are actually crap. Bose has a great reputation simulating sounds, but in reality, the sounds they make you hear are nothing like how it should be heard. Your best getting a speaker that can do one job and that's it. Get tweeters for highs, mids for mids, and a sub for bass. When everything is tuned right and doing it's own job, you'll be amazed at the sounds you can hear.
 
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As far as Bose stuff is considered, they are actually crap. Bose has a great reputation simulating sounds, but in reality, the sounds they make you hear are nothing like how it should be heard. Your best getting a speaker that can do one job and that's it. Get tweeters for highs, mids for mids, and a sub for bass. When everything is tuned right and doing it's own job, you'll be amazed at the sounds you can hear.
Karma for you Matt.. that was EVERYTHING I wanted to say, but didn't because I hate stepping on peoples toes regarding their affinity towards certain brands.
I seem to be known as a guy that thinks most brands are crap, and I hate alienating people because that said brand happens to be their favorite, but yes I very wholeheartedly agree.

Bose is shit. Pure shit.

I've never in my life ever heard anybody that has heard any speaker worth in the $1,200 ++ per pair that has auditioned them, and still choose Bose. Never.

The gaps in frequency response, the differences in amplitude throughout the frequency band, the step response, the Phase linearity.... It boggles my mind people like them. They are a materialized cluster-fuck of design errors and gross in-effeciencies.

Like Matt said, Listen to how wonderfully musical and timbre a well designed and tuned system is, and you'll forget Bose like last years news. Trust me on that.

I forget the numbers (not that they're overly relevant as the ones I know are now 5 years old) but Bose spends literally twice as much on marketing as the next (same size per capita) audio company. They're approach is, "Lets not waste time or money MAKING good speakers, lets just make mediocre stuff and lead people to believe its the best out there.... period".
Thats an ideology that led me out of the audio industry as I've encountered that countless times in the car audio sector as well.



For the record, I've heard these Lanzar speakers many years ago and they are very controlled and accurate. The tweeters are very quick and decisive, the bass isn't PERFECT, but for the price they're very hard to beat speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Ok I finally decided on a set of Alpine Type R's component system. I also got an alpine 4 channel amp to power them. Now I'm not too sure where to mount the tweeters, they don't fit in the door sails these tweeters are beast. They weight like 2 pounds and the swivel haha. Either way, They're about 2 inches in diameter, and 1.5 inches deep. I was thinking I was going to mount them in the door below the sail but not sure how that'd look/sound. Also you guys know any good ways to hide the wires? I've been wiring through the plastic on the outside of the door before you enter the car but you can still see some wires while the doors open.... Hmm what do you guys think? (sorry if I sound confusing)
 

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As far as Bose stuff is considered, they are actually crap. Bose has a great reputation simulating sounds, but in reality, the sounds they make you hear are nothing like how it should be heard. Your best getting a speaker that can do one job and that's it.
Thats so true, they are extremely overpriced and most of the time i have heard them in vehicles, the bass is what distorts them. Something you would expect bose to be the shit at.

Audiobahn's aren't the greatest either, but with a good component system generally anything sounds a million times better. If you aren't going to go to car shows and show it off, i dont see much of a reason anymore to blow your cash on fancy speakers. Lanzars and Audiobahn's are like the flea market favs here. Although i really can't complain with any of teh audiobahn's i ever used. If you can get over the chrome flames and flashy blue coloring they are quite the deal.

That being said, i've been out of the car audio thing for a long time now. You can also never go wrong with Pioneers. I know wally world sells them but they are another i used to religiously rock. When i had my astro van in high school i had 2 sony xplod 6 1/2" in the front dash, 2 sony xplod 6x9's in the rear dutch doors, 2 4x10....or whatever that weird size in the rear columns was that were xplods. A jensen 4 chan amp and it was the bomb. It was an ......well now its old, but it was a blue and chrome amp that took a beating. I want to say it was around 600 watts. I also had a crossfire (shitty) amp going to 2 diamond plate 12" pioneers and then a MTX Thunder amp for my 15" Thunder4000's. My van was LOUD. But i had it dialed in pretty nice. I'll bet that 400 pounds of audio probably stole 4mpg at the least lol. Course thats when gas was 76 cents a gallon and i had a van that avg'd 436 miles per full tank.

........I miss my van still to this day.
 
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