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I own a 93 mx6 v6 i have 2 12 fosgates in my trunk and iam wondring what is the best way to stop the rattaling sound outside the car and the vibration, do u people suggest DYNOMAT or something better
STOP Rattaling/ Vibration In TRUNK
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dynamat would help. there are other alternatives that are less moeny than dynamat..
also - find out exactly what is rattling. if your rubber surround for the trunk is like mine, it could use replacement heh. also rid yourself of the plastic factory license plate holder - if applicable... that thing rattles like a mofo. then get some rubber washers and and put them in between the body and plate, and screw head and plate when u reattach it.
finally make sure there are no screws loose inside.. the screw on one of my hydrolic trunk lid lifts is loose, causing a squeak.. and also check your power antenna stuff.. that maybe loose and rattling around. check your spare tire well too.
if you still need dynamat (or similar) after checking these things, the get some... its worth it, but only if you make sure there isnt some other source of the rattles first.
good luck!
also - find out exactly what is rattling. if your rubber surround for the trunk is like mine, it could use replacement heh. also rid yourself of the plastic factory license plate holder - if applicable... that thing rattles like a mofo. then get some rubber washers and and put them in between the body and plate, and screw head and plate when u reattach it.
finally make sure there are no screws loose inside.. the screw on one of my hydrolic trunk lid lifts is loose, causing a squeak.. and also check your power antenna stuff.. that maybe loose and rattling around. check your spare tire well too.
if you still need dynamat (or similar) after checking these things, the get some... its worth it, but only if you make sure there isnt some other source of the rattles first.
good luck!
SNIP FROM PREVIOUS EF MAX POST>>
The best way to cure this rattle is, assuming that you are willing, remove the back seats and then the plastic parcel shelf.
Add some sound deadening pads to the whole of the metal shelf and then some carpet underlay to the plastic shelf. Replace and affix very firmly. This is what I did and it is now silent and I have 2 x 12" + 1 x 18" in my MX6.
It is always worth sound deadening the whole car if your budget allows for it.
The boot lid is another place to tackle so to is the rear number plate.
Whilst you are there the side panels love to be treated too and while you are on a roll say hello to the front doors.
The best way to cure this rattle is, assuming that you are willing, remove the back seats and then the plastic parcel shelf.
Add some sound deadening pads to the whole of the metal shelf and then some carpet underlay to the plastic shelf. Replace and affix very firmly. This is what I did and it is now silent and I have 2 x 12" + 1 x 18" in my MX6.
It is always worth sound deadening the whole car if your budget allows for it.
The boot lid is another place to tackle so to is the rear number plate.
Whilst you are there the side panels love to be treated too and while you are on a roll say hello to the front doors.
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188 Posts
ON my car I found that the heat sheild above the muffler was rattling. One simple solution got rid of it, four bolts. Didnt need it anymore, new muffler it doesnt sit as high as the stock one.
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i finally had the chance to re-do my system and now I have my two subs facing the back. Hearing from you guys that it gives more of a lower bass... but now I have a bigger problem. The trunk rattling noise. The rubber around the trunk is still good and I've put things under the license plate to stop the rattling.. but my trunk won't stop.. I've checked all the screws and they are on tight. From inside, the sound quality does sound better, but when i step outside.. all I hear are rattles.. you guys got anymore suggestions? and where I can find these parts if necessary.. thanks
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first off.....
first of.... not to be bashing you....take the fosgates out....they are crap! im not saying my system is the best in the world but hey... its hit 175 db with 2 12's. not bad. but... with mine...it would rattle like a mothafuxka and i spent like 300 bucks to get it going smooth. i took all the carpet out of the car and laid dynamat pro down and then put it in the roof...then in the trunk...and in the doors and under the hook of the car. so the whold car was covered in it. well almost every where...and with my car being a first gen...its a lil bit different but basically has the same consept. just a helpfull hint.
first of.... not to be bashing you....take the fosgates out....they are crap! im not saying my system is the best in the world but hey... its hit 175 db with 2 12's. not bad. but... with mine...it would rattle like a mothafuxka and i spent like 300 bucks to get it going smooth. i took all the carpet out of the car and laid dynamat pro down and then put it in the roof...then in the trunk...and in the doors and under the hook of the car. so the whold car was covered in it. well almost every where...and with my car being a first gen...its a lil bit different but basically has the same consept. just a helpfull hint.
Re: first off.....
Incidently did you spell 175dB incorrectly because I would love to see how you managed 175dB with just two of ANY speaker of ANY brand.
The rest of your answer is cool but to be taken serious in this section of the forum, go easy on the brand bashing and if you are going to big yourself up, that's cool too but be aware that keen eyes like mine will notice that 175dB from just two speakers is going to stretch my imagination.. thanks for your input.
UMM sorry to say but you are bashing. Why do some people feel the need ro slag off some brands just because it is not to their taste. RF make some crap speakers but they also make some very good and very expensive speaker.. you didn't even ask which RF are being used here they could well have been their budget range but in a well designed box they could probably still kick some bass.. much better to just get to the heart of your answer rather than bash anything, unless the point is a valid one based on science and not personal taste.Madrox89GT said:
Incidently did you spell 175dB incorrectly because I would love to see how you managed 175dB with just two of ANY speaker of ANY brand.
The rest of your answer is cool but to be taken serious in this section of the forum, go easy on the brand bashing and if you are going to big yourself up, that's cool too but be aware that keen eyes like mine will notice that 175dB from just two speakers is going to stretch my imagination.. thanks for your input.
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372 Posts
175dB?? ummmm riiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiight. Not with two 12's at least.. I was at a car audio competition and the loudest was 170dB.. and that's with 12 amps.. and 12 subs of various sizes.. so i don't think 2 12's would even come close to that. With a 175dB, I don't think your $300 in rattle reduction products would even stop it.
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but he might have stickers.. i heard those JL window stickers add a good 5 dB and the audiobahn stickers are good for 15-20dB easy! (the reasoning is that they stiffen the glass, so less energy is lost to vibration..)
LOL HAHAHA
i crack myself up this morning
LOL HAHAHA
i crack myself up this morning
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372 Posts
it's gonna be red and must have an R on it too!! haha.. but back to the rattling.. I know that dynomat is expensive.. is there another less costly product out there? Where do you need to seal around the truck to keep the noise down? And what's the name of the products.
I do not know what is available in the US but here in the UK there is a number of different products that will also do a similar job.
Basically you have two types of noise reduction pads.
The only decision is the product to use. In the past I only ever used DIY materials, wadding, bituminous paints, etc. Effectively to add mass to the panel(s) being treated. Adding mass does not remove vibration, rather it lowers the resonant frequency of the panel in question and thus reduces the audibility of the vibration effect. Some 'proper' sound deadening materials still rely on [1]bituminous mass loading, but [2] viscoelastic products work far more efficiently.
The basic stuff uses Bitumen Pads, this is a tar like material that helps absorb vibration by adding mass to the panel.
Then there is the viscoelastic products. This is like Dynamat Extreme.
At the end of the day I have gone over the top in my car by removing every single removable thing, seats, carpet, roof lining, stripped the trunk and door panels out and lined every visable panel with bitumen pads. In the trunk I have added loads of viscoelastic products and on the doors added additional spray stuff.
The trunk lid I removed and covered that in both bitumen pads and viscoelastic products.
The end result is that I still get the odd annoying vibration but sound quality has dramatically improved, the road noise is just not there.
From the outside it is VERY hard to hear my system but on the inside is like a musical heaven.
Dynamat is expensive and if you have tospend big dollars then I would go for some of their Extremes stuff but only afte you have experimented with some of the other DIY stuff.
Basically you have two types of noise reduction pads.
The only decision is the product to use. In the past I only ever used DIY materials, wadding, bituminous paints, etc. Effectively to add mass to the panel(s) being treated. Adding mass does not remove vibration, rather it lowers the resonant frequency of the panel in question and thus reduces the audibility of the vibration effect. Some 'proper' sound deadening materials still rely on [1]bituminous mass loading, but [2] viscoelastic products work far more efficiently.
The basic stuff uses Bitumen Pads, this is a tar like material that helps absorb vibration by adding mass to the panel.
Then there is the viscoelastic products. This is like Dynamat Extreme.
At the end of the day I have gone over the top in my car by removing every single removable thing, seats, carpet, roof lining, stripped the trunk and door panels out and lined every visable panel with bitumen pads. In the trunk I have added loads of viscoelastic products and on the doors added additional spray stuff.
The trunk lid I removed and covered that in both bitumen pads and viscoelastic products.
The end result is that I still get the odd annoying vibration but sound quality has dramatically improved, the road noise is just not there.
From the outside it is VERY hard to hear my system but on the inside is like a musical heaven.
Dynamat is expensive and if you have tospend big dollars then I would go for some of their Extremes stuff but only afte you have experimented with some of the other DIY stuff.
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188 Posts
I know it has been said a thousand times, but dynamat would help. Also look for any loose peices, lisence plate and the lights above it, also with mine I notices the heat shield above the muffler was rattling so i got rid of that.
On another note 175db with 2 12's=BS. I am not putting down Fosgate at all. In fact everything I got is Fosgate except the head unit and eq. I hit a 152.2db with 2 Power 12's and 2 Power 1100a2's. So my guess would be it must be those stickers!
On another note 175db with 2 12's=BS. I am not putting down Fosgate at all. In fact everything I got is Fosgate except the head unit and eq. I hit a 152.2db with 2 Power 12's and 2 Power 1100a2's. So my guess would be it must be those stickers!
I found the best stuff to stop rattling etc is spray on sound deadener...
dynomat is ok, but the spray on sound deadener is great , you spray it on where ever your going to mount speakers etc or where ever you have rattle, and then if you like you can spray over with any other paint...
You can also get a brush on deadener....
dynomat is ok, but the spray on sound deadener is great , you spray it on where ever your going to mount speakers etc or where ever you have rattle, and then if you like you can spray over with any other paint...
You can also get a brush on deadener....
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5,550 Posts
I found that my rear window ledge (inside the cab) was vibrating .The plastic was buzzing on the metal under neath I just pumped it full {slight exaggeration} with silicone between the 2 surfaces. It also needed the little clips that go around the rear seat belts as they pass throe the trim gooing up….
And we have a similar sub system 2 12 facing back in ported enclosure ..And they do shake the sh!t out of the car!!
And we have a similar sub system 2 12 facing back in ported enclosure ..And they do shake the sh!t out of the car!!
G
Guest
·Audiobahns can hit very hard. I have one 12" in a big ported box, and even though I haven't measured it, i can feel thos sound with my hair and stomach. The guys at TheZeb managed to get one Alum 12 to hit 150dB or so they said.
I'm kinda glad to hear that MX6's also have problems with rattling (j.k). You should hear my probe rattle. The entire rear end of the car rattles including bumper, lights, side moldings, outside door panels, hatch cover, rear speaker wells, EVERYTHING.
Oh and my paint sucks too.
I'm kinda glad to hear that MX6's also have problems with rattling (j.k). You should hear my probe rattle. The entire rear end of the car rattles including bumper, lights, side moldings, outside door panels, hatch cover, rear speaker wells, EVERYTHING.
Oh and my paint sucks too.
i got the same problem with the back dash rattleing. is the expand spay the best for that and would it expand too much and pop the plastic out.
I took off the rear bumper and put inslaation in the gaps and in the trunk behind the carpet. really helped also try putting the little chair pads-the things that go on the bottom of the feet- on the back of the plate thats stoped my plate from rattling, sounds fine outside of the car it is the inside that buzzs.
I took off the rear bumper and put inslaation in the gaps and in the trunk behind the carpet. really helped also try putting the little chair pads-the things that go on the bottom of the feet- on the back of the plate thats stoped my plate from rattling, sounds fine outside of the car it is the inside that buzzs.
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