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stuff to do before sunday.

603 Views 7 Replies 5 Participants Last post by  Turk
Alrighty then, i drove around a bit today, and lucky me, on my DAY OFF i find all my problems, im wokring all tomoro, but i think i have thursday off, in which i will be trying to fix the things in my car that are really starting to piss me off.

Shifter. i need to cut and re weld this (taking it off/puttign it on is an agrivating job as it is) Because i lengthened the throw side, it hits the shift stabaliser bar, and i have to push at it to get it to go into 1st and 2nd, which pretty much makes it useless as a short throw shifter. i could live with this origionally, but its started to annoy me. IOm gonna have to cut it appart and see if making it longer or shorter will fix the problem.

tyres should probably rotate them (already have once), i dunno, theyre not as fresh as they were day one :( (january)

clutch/brakes im gonna check the lines and bleed these when i can, the clutch feels "soft" and its pissing me off, also, the brake light comes on sometimes, if this doesnt work im gonna need a master or slave (the one at the pedel right?) cylinder. (which will come from...?)

Engine started making a noise today, sounds not like a rubbing, but sort of like a rubbing... not a clicking, very constant noise that goes up wiht the revs, checked the oil and... there is none!... well there is but its down to just below the low line, this from a few days ago being at the high line!... it was running the wrong oil anyway... so, i gotta do an oil change, which will hopefully get rid of the noise... also, ill check my spark plugs, i had a problem with there being oil on the back middle one a few weeks/months ago.. theres nothing i can really do now, but i can at least give it a wipe over.

sunroof needs cleaning,
bumper needs fixing,
gutter rash on the rim needs fixing,
wash car...
all that plus any crap i find along the way..:rolleyes:
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Sounds like you got a fun filled day.. :)
I've been told, people can correct me. The ticking noise is quiet common with normal engine wear. I have it myself and my engine has been reconditioned at 130,000.
As for Clutch master and slave cylinder, i have recently purchased a new one ( $80 master, $60 slave ) but it takes 4 days for delivery which is good.

Can't help with any of your issues as i'm not familiar with Mazda engines. Best to leave it to someone that knows their stuff. :p
but sort of like a rubbing... not a clicking, :
it makes the ticking as well which seems pretty normal, the new noise only just popped up late today..

On top of that the buttons on my phone are screwing up, which is annoying... and i probably wont have my ipod fixed by sunday so im stuck listening to crappy radio music :p anyone hace a broken ipod video 30gb they wanna sell?
Ticking noise of engine is Varying

Some noise is normal - some cars for example have loud injectors - usually - Tail type - EG VL turbo etc - not the more common newer Side feed.

Reason being the tail is like an amplifier.

but most ticking is HLA - Some engines will tick a level that is louder then another due to a number of factors.
Other engines will never Tick.
EG my old KF ticked once - was not loud like missing oil just one went off- a qucik rev and two quick oil changes and slightly thicker oil. NEVER CAME BACK.

One problem is alot of people use on some engines oil that is too thin.
They think the wider band oil is better. But it can cause the noise or action of the HLA to be louder.

EG - a KL running 20-40 or more common specd 15-40. will be alot quiter then say a top range synthetic - 10-60 or 10-50.
You might think your engine needs the thinner oil but in actual fact it does not. Alot of people forget thinner oils only really came in recently as main stream use due to emissions controls and tolerances in engines desgined for less LIFE.

But in general remember if you clsoe the bonnet it you can't hear it standing up. It's proberly normal.
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Make sure the level of fluid in your master cylinders are at max. or close to it. That can cause your brake light to come on. If it's at border line for where the sensor is activated then the bouncing around of the car and turning hard left or right can trigger the sensor.
light should not come on even at min level.
It usually means IMO - as I've noticed on alot of cars I've borrowed or just bombs in general.

Fluid is water - yep it's absorbed heaps of water.

Dot 4 fluid may look like and act similar to water but when it's in the container with the swtich float swimming around due to it's chemical structure it actuall under the forces of gravity and the G's of cornering. Will normally hold the float very steady.

It's why you should not go over the max level unless you want you cap to leak fluid out.
^^ OKAY thanks for that one, i filled up the brake fluid resevoir with dot3 today (didnt do a bleed), the light isnt on anymore and the brakes and clutch feel less "make me angry" , but i did fill it to where a little is visible at the back touching the top of the resevoir, ill take some out tomoro.

TODAY i changed oil filter and oil, fixed my shifter up once and for all, checked spark plugs and cleaned the problematic one, topped up brake fluid, and, most expensive of all.... put a tank of petrol in it.

and calculated my fuel consumption for the previous tank to average 13.8L/100km, which was actually mostly "not give a shit about fuel consumption" driving style (not hooning, but enjoying the finer qualities of the first 3 gears) Interestingly enouhg 13.8 is the exact figure ive gotten after calculating my last 3 tanks as well, one of which was grandma style shift at 2000rpm driving.
I dont agree Rod. My brake light comes on when the fluid is low. I have a leak right now, and once every two weeks it will drop below the neccessary level and the light will start coming on when I put the brakes on. Fill it back up and it goes away. Im picking up a brake master(leaking) tomorrow morning and putting on the Mazda 6 calipers(also leaking) tomorrow night so then that problem should go away. But yer, low fluid = light comes on.
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