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Discussion Starter #21 (Edited)

Time to make this 323 look good ! Me and my son started the bodywork in April /10

My driveway with one of my 2 second gens and my ford F150.
That 2ndgen is going to be a RWD (seriously)

That Primer-sealer puts a nice thick coat that sands super smooth and hides small scratches

5 coats of Limegreen effect (Dodge Charger lime green). Turned out not bad. I learned alot about using the HVLP gun and got a shiny finish. I painted at about 10 psi.

The hood pins are actually necessary since i had to remove most of the center support for the turbo and fan.
The black is Canadian Tire Laquer which turned out really bad using the HVLP gun. Very pebbly, but wet sanding and polishing saved it.

It took most of the summer, but it was done by the end of July /10


I want to get a smaller rear bumper and possibly put a aftermarket front bumper
The origional ones (both shot) are longer and make it more like a grocery-getter. Shorter bumpers would make it look more modern
 

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Not a big fan of the lime green on anything but i think it looks pretty good on a 323. Should have got the green paint code for the mx-2 and used that instead of the charger lime green lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
I'm still here ! But the 323 has done more sittin than drivin.
Last year i raised the steering rack (posted on the thread in the 1stgen forum) to make it handle better. It handles like crap since the MX6 steering knuckles made the tie rods not parallel any more. I had terrible bump steer .

Things to do this year.. put a better pickup sensor on the crank for the MS, then push up the boost and tune it on my nearly done shop dyno.


Here is the Big thread on the 1stgen forum.
http://www.mx6.com/forums/1g-mx6-other-performance/227589-stuffing-f2t-into-323-build-thread.html
 

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What hubs are you running? The 93+ ones? I know the 88-92 ones work, and dont have any suspension issues as we used those on Piles 5 lug swap on his ZE MX3 which should be the same as your car pretty much with only very slight suspension differences.
 

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in all honesty pat^ larken is correct. the tie rod mount point is up a noticeable bit compared next to a BG unit.

im trying to get BA astina/323F front assemblies to cure the same problem.
 

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I agree they arent perfect. But the 93+'s are even that much worse. And scott didnt have any of the bump steer issues hes experiencing while driving. So that obviously doesnt explain that. Thats why i asked if he was using the 93+ stuff. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #34
The hubs (complete w/struts) are off a 1990. I had to raise the rack about an inch to correct it. On the other thread i show how i shortened the strut too.
 

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I'm about to do this 5lug swap on my 95 Escort. When measuring everything, I noticed the tie rod would be lifted considerably... so I purchased a set of .751" OD bushings with the correct taper for the tie rods on the ID, and plan to drill the spindles out to .750" and press the bushings in upside down, in order to flip the tie rod upside down, and lower it, hopefully to a point where it is parallel to the LCA... If it lowers it too far, a ball joint relocation/correction is in order, to lower the LCA. This should correct roll-center geometry on lowered cars, and correct the bumpsteer issues of all this mis-match mumbo jumbo.

I'll post my results.
 

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I have my 323 F2T all done and running. Ive taken it to the track but there are serious handling problems. She's a handful to hang onto !

I think i found the problem though. I'm using the full 5 bolt MX6 struts and hubs and i now see that the wheels actually turn out (left and right) when you hit a bump. Seems the steering rods from the rack arn't parallel with the lower A arm. The steering arm is higher than on the 4bolt 323 knuckle.

Jesiotrot, have do you have this problem ? How does your handle.

Im going to have to cut the steering arm and weld it lower.
Hi,

this is a great read and im doing the same thing with my 323 and i was wondering where you got the wiring diargrams from for the F2T ecu????
 

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the mx6 spindles ride like shit plain & simple. Your best option would be to use astina BHA spindles. or the LX protege spindles (90-94) with a modified BJ 5 lug unit (that'll match the axle spline on the f2t shaft)
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Hi,

this is a great read and im doing the same thing with my 323 and i was wondering where you got the wiring diargrams from for the F2T ecu????
I'm running Megasquirt on it. There is a bigger thread on my build in the MX6 1G forum.
 

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I think what you're trying to do is admirable, but sounds like so much work. However, if it were me, I would try fitting an F2T in a B2200. I think it would be way easier. To each hisi own.

You also might get a hold of a guy on the ClubProtege.com - By The Community, For The Community who might still have a 323 SOHC 1.6L motor I cuswtom turboed but never ran. I bartered with him to do work on my 323 GT and gave him the motor. I think it might still be in his shed sitting around. That would be easier to put into your 323. I also think another friend might have a spare 323 GT motor (might need rebuilding) in Vancouver, WA.
 
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