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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I just wanted to thank everyone here for the great info that Ive learned in the last few months..... its really been a great help as is the info at elitecaraudio.com.

So far, Ive put in a Kenwood Excelon HU (I do like the performance/specs of this but the user interface is poor....). I run this through a Coustic active crossover to split the front stage into midbass and mids/tweets. This feeds a 4 channel amp, which Ive used to bi-wire my JL Audio XR653s. I read up on kickpanels and glassing and went for it, I now have a nice front stage with mid/tweets in the kicks and the midbass in the Raammatted doors. This works to supply a fantastic front stage, thanks to MX et al!

Now that I have a real good front stage, Ive discovered what everyone else has been suggesting all along, I need a Sub! D'oh!

So, I have a 1st gen MX and want to install a single Sub for mostly SQ type listening of Rock (Allmans, Dead, etc) and Jazz.

Ive been leaning towards the JBL BP600.1 from Ikesound, does seem like a lot of juice for the price. So, what suggestions would you experts make for a single Sub powered by an amp of this class? JL Audio/Aidre/whatever. Assume a ported glassed box in the trunk with raamatt as needed.

Also, my 4 channel amp is rated at 30 amps and I see the 600.1 can pull up to 57 amps. I guess if I go this route I will need to add a second battery or can this be avoided? Also, can I connect both amps to the same 4 guage power line to the battery or do I need to run a second power line for the sub amp?

TIA!

Starkbier
 

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looks like you have done some homework and also have been having some fun,,,, what you can do is install a 2ga from the battery to a fuse block in the engine compartment,, and then run it to the trunk, to a fuse distro block ,, and then run a 4 ga to both amps,,, also you can improve things by increasing the size of the negative battery cable to like 2ga or larger,, and also the angine ground ,,, and also the cable from the alternator,,( these are known as the magic 3),,,,,,,,,,

as far as amps go the jbl will be a good choice if you are not competing,,, but if you plan to compete,, then get a class a/b amp for your sub,,, and if you have the money check into tru technology,,(being on EC im sure you know the reputation tru has)

my choice of sub would depend on money and power,,,

jl audio 10w6v2,, less than 500watts of power,,,
jlaudio 10w7,, more than 500watts of power
image dynammics idmax,,,, 300-1500watts of power

and all depends on enlosure size and type,,, but i would stick with a sealed box unless you tune the ported box really low,, like 28hz or so,,,,,,,,,,,

also if you want to go IB with our sub,, then the best choice would be the idmax,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, i plan on doing this,,,
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
jaejw1, I meant to thank you too, you inspired me to build the kicks and it worked out great! Also, all of you afraid of cutting the doors in a 1st gen, sheesh, it was so simple. Just get a basic metal jigsaw blade and it cut like butter. Now my door mounted midbass rocks!

I will do the upgraded wiring trick, had read that part in one of the stickies. Did this remove the need for a second battery for you?

As for subs, Im also considering the Elemental Designs E12 series, either the E12A or E12O.44 series. Seems like a nice sub that fits in a tiny box at a good price.....

Prost!

SB
 

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well all i did was upgrade my negative battery cable,, and before i did that it seems as though my amps would clip at full tilt,, and now they dont,, i have to do the other 2 though..
 

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If in fact you use the 600.1, you should be fine with the stock charging system and upgraded wires - assuming your existing battery is in good condition.

How much bass do you want? The 600.1 is a LOT of power, and could get you more than you want very easily. Of course, I'm a firm believer in the addage "you can akways turn it down" - therefor there's no such thing as too much. :D

On that note, a single JL 15W3d4 in a ported box is hard to beat for SQ/SPL combination, is less expensive than the badass 10's and 12's, and would LOVE that power. With teh sub volume on the deck down, it'd blend nicely, with it up - well, your neighbors would hate you. :lol:

If you don't need 140 + Db, get the 300.1 instead of the 600, and a smaller 10 or 12 like the W3v2 or the ID's (not the MAX, lol). The Elementals have a great reputation, I haven't worked with them personally. I for one am unimpressed with the Adire Shiva.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
As usual, thanks MX!

I like bass, and have totally changed my mind concerning subs. But I also like my strong up front midbass and do want something to blend the midbass with the sub and keep focus on SQ over SPL.
I do listen to the Dead a lot and would love to hear the real Phil Lesh bass bombs, so the single 15 is appealing.

Keeping the electrical system stock is a big plus for amp/sub choice. I know the JBL D class amps are sub amps, is there another good amp option I should consider that could power my rear deck 6" midbass speakers and also run the sub? I guess come to think of it, the JBL 600.1 could do both, or would this just not sound good and pull the front stage back? Remember I can use the active crossover to keep the frequency in check.

Prost!

SB
 

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well now since you are talking major sq.... you might not want to get that class d,,,,, yeah class d aare for subs only because they cant play any higher than those freqs,,, that is why they made the class t..... but if you buy a decent class a/b,, it will sound better than the class d,,, not unless you spend some ungodly amounts of money for this class d... like xtant,from what im told,,,,

put it this way,, i used to own a jbl 1200.1 and loved the output of it,, but as far as sq,,, my lil ole mtx 2150x beat it hands down,,, and now i have a tru technology and now i have better control than the mtx,, with the output of the jbl...

since you wanted something to keep up with your midbass drivers,,, also i wouldnt keep my midbass drivers on the rear deck,, put them in the doors,, but if you have them for rear fill,, make sure you hve the levels set correctly... you arent supposed to hear them... but they can raise your front stage....
 

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If you're bii-amping the fronts, you should be just fine. Run the highpass for the midbass between 60 and 80, and use a lower slope, like 6 or 12 db. Set the crossover on the sub to the same freq, and use a 24 db/oct filter.

Come to think of it, I don't think the JBL 600.1 has a 24/db filter. If you use it, cross the sub as stupid low as you can, like 50 or 60. Match it with the fronts, and HP them at 24 db if possible - if not, they should be OK at 12. ;)
 
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