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Sub encloser idea's?

2816 Views 30 Replies 9 Participants Last post by  bmxfuel007
I just got my two ten inch kicker subs. I want a somewhat cool idea for an encloser in the trunk. nothing too expensive. any idea's guys???
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hahah that's insane!
With a small box, you should be able to stuff them into each of the rear most "compartment spaces" of your trunk. It'll look clean, and tidy, and you'll still have a perfectly usable trunk afterwards. Installs like the one above are great, but for show cars, not to be driven as daily drivers. Unless you dont mind a HUGE waste of interior space for little more then a "cool" factor.
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i like your idea, small and tidy and nice, thanks :D
Just find out what kind of volume the subs require, and work with that. Its best to have a bit of a bigger box then what would fit: AND have great sound... then only go for a VERY small box, and have to deal with very shallow and poor sounding bass, as the box is too small for the subs. Thankfully Kicker subs typically require small boxes, so go with a small sealed. I'd recommend about .7 ft3, which is (I'm pretty sure) along the lines of what Kicker recommends, as for a sealed, they recommend .5 to 1.0 on the sealed boxes for their 10's. Just dont forget to find out the NET internal box volume, exluding the thickness of the wood, and the volume loss from the subwoofer itself.
If you do accidentally end up with too small of a volume of box, you can always use poly fill to simulate a bigger box. Depends on how much trunk space you want to keep. or you can always go the spare tire delete route and put a sub enclosure in there. Always looks badass... well as long as you make it pretty

Just find out what kind of volume the subs require, and work with that. Its best to have a bit of a bigger box then what would fit: AND have great sound... then only go for a VERY small box, and have to deal with very shallow and poor sounding bass, as the box is too small for the subs. Thankfully Kicker subs typically require small boxes, so go with a small sealed. I'd recommend about .7 ft3, which is (I'm pretty sure) along the lines of what Kicker recommends, as for a sealed, they recommend .5 to 1.0 on the sealed boxes for their 10's. Just dont forget to find out the NET internal box volume, exluding the thickness of the wood, and the volume loss from the subwoofer itself.
If you do accidentally end up with too small of a volume of box, you can always use poly fill to simulate a bigger box.
Yeah poly fill works wonders. I have 12's in mine and I didnt want some huge box taking up my trunk So I got a really nice, small, sealed dual chambered box , fillled about half way with poly fill, screwed on my CVR's and voila. Boom she goes. And you dont necessarily have to buy poly fill from an audio store. I was in a fix so I bought poly fill for less than $5 from the arts and crafts section of Wal-mart. Its really just the stuff they use to fill pillows. But good luck man hope everyones info helps!:tup:
shallow mount woofers have gotten a lot better since they came out. An enclosure in the spare tire well with a grate over it can sound amazing. Plus, it evens out some of the weight of the car and it's east to slap loads of dynamat in the spare tire well to prevent vibrations. Keep a car of fix a flat in the back seat and a AAA card in the glove compartment. With the right amp and box, one of those will be enough, and in some cases more than two in a different set up. You cal even sell one for the extra cash to put up for a quality enclosure

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Thats a pretty clean set up dude. Is it yours??
nope, not even from an MX6. But the install is exactly what I'm talking about for the spare tire. Although I would have used a sturdy mesh grill with metal braces so you can actually put stuff in your trunk
Yeah I was thinking the same thing.. Haha I was paying attention to the set up so much that I didnt even realize it wasnt a 6. Im still an old school guy when it comes to enclosures. I mounted my amps and caps in back of the seats, hid the wires, and just use your run of the mill sealed box:tup:
True about the polyfill, but its not the be-all, end-all answer. It does help, absolutely, by helping the sub perform as if it was in a bigger box, but you will notice a difference in the sound quality, and the low end signal reproduction that is characteristic of a proper sized box, VS one thats too small but was compensated by Polyfill.
:shrug: Perhaps not so much with the Kicker subs, as they have been designed their subs since the early part of this decade to work with whatever sized box: and still sound good. As nobody enjoys buying or building one off boxes for subs, and later having to sell or throw out the box because the subs were blown, or they want to switch around the setup :tdown:

Polyfill is fantastic for aiding a cancelation of standing waves inside the box, which (in laymens terms) create sounds that dont exist, by frequency waves bouncing of the back of the box, and coming through the speaker cone again, typically compounding with other frequency waves.
This CAN be a good thing, actually an AWESOME thing if competing in SPL competitions, as you can calculate the time it'll take for those refractions to return, and get that to compound with the sound waves that are being reproduced real-time.
Its kind of a way for smart people to cheat, but not really. :D
For serious stereo tuning, this is a fantastic trick few know about, other then the guys with $500k ++ installs and 1 million watt RMS vans etc.

It only works on specific frequencies that need to be tuned to, as EACH frequency has its own wave length. 20hz are great sluggish waves that are 20 meters (60 feet) long per cycle. While 20k hz are only 2cm long waves. (Which is a bit less then an inch.)

Anyways... a bit of "Box know-how" There... hopefully that makes sense, good to know for anybody interested in competing... if there are any reading this.
:shrug:



Back when I had my last MX6 (the one that now belongs to Xtreme17/Shawn,) I put my 1/3rd Octave (Active) EQ that little "cubby hole" that I spoke of. Fit like a glove, and looks awesome. I put the amp ( as well as other signal processing equipment) on a rack that hangs underneath the rear shelf itself, suspended upside down for easy acess. I also installed 12volt fans (from a computer) on a seperate rack made of 1/2" aluminum bars that cool the equipment, as hanging upside down in a closed air enviroment isn't too good for 2500 watt RMS amps too cool themselves.
It worked great though, Just crawl upside down (facing the rear shelf) in the trunk and everything is there. Fucking PITA to install though... URRGHH!!! Wont do that again. :(
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I put the amp ( as well as other signal processing equipment) on a rack that hangs underneath the rear shelf itself, suspended upside down for easy acess. I also installed 12volt fans (from a computer) on a seperate rack made of 1/2" aluminum bars that cool the equipment, as hanging upside down in a closed air enviroment isn't too good for 2500 watt RMS amps too cool themselves.
It worked great though, Just crawl upside down (facing the rear shelf) in the trunk and everything is there. [fizzle]ing PITA to install though... URRGHH!!! Wont do that again. :(

You know I was thinking of doing almost the same exact things to mount my amps! But im the type who changes his audio equipment like underwear....once every month or so :rolleyes:...haha. So I really didnt want to drill holes for an amp when amps come in various dimensions. SO I just stayed with the classic approach. :shrug:
^ I made the amp rack big enough to accomidate two big amps, the distribution block, the RCA signal booster (that brings it up to 10volts RMS, which is a great way to make your amps sweat like NEVER before :lol: :D) and a bit to spare for whatever else. You'd be surprised of how much room there is once you lay on your back with with a measuring tape. It was tricky to make all that work along with the rear strut tower bar, but it is very much possible.

What you can do is have a 3/4" MDF board attached to the main "rack" itself. My main rack was also make of 3/4 MDF since I knew I'd also ticker with shit and swap it for other stuff. That way when ever the secondary board is too tattered from all the screw holes, you can just change it out for a new one.
^

Hmm. I think I will try that as soon as I get bored with my setup! Im guessing the amps hidden up there makes it harder for thieves?? Ive already had my amp jacked AND it was mounted to my seat. They busted my pesky rear 1/4 window to get it =(
yes Sir. particularily if you do a great job of hiding the wiring, and even carpet over it.
I had the wires running to a home style stereo output jack on other other "cubby hole" of the trunk, and ran the wires from that jack to the speaker box. Great for swapping out subs, as I did that all the time.
shallow mount woofers have gotten a lot better since they came out. An enclosure in the spare tire well with a grate over it can sound amazing. Plus, it evens out some of the weight of the car and it's east to slap loads of dynamat in the spare tire well to prevent vibrations. Keep a car of fix a flat in the back seat and a AAA card in the glove compartment. With the right amp and box, one of those will be enough, and in some cases more than two in a different set up. You cal even sell one for the extra cash to put up for a quality enclosure

too bad our trunks leak
too bad our trunks leak
Actually mine is now watertight, PM me for details
I had the wires running to a home style stereo output jack on other other "cubby hole" of the trunk, and ran the wires from that jack to the speaker box. Great for swapping out subs, as I did that all the time.


Smart! Never thought of doing it that way! If I have time this weekend i'll go buy some mdf and see about doing it the Graham_A_M way :tup:
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