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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

I have a '92 V6 that I'm slowly restoring and it's come to light that the shocks are in need of replacing. I don't want to lower the car, just replace the shocks to improve handling and stop the rear tyre from scrubbing when the car bottoms out. As I said the shocks are cactus!!!

Have been chasing round the usual suppliers and on line only to find that virtually every site, whilst listing aftermarket shocks, excludes the 4WS model!! Why???

Now Fulcrum are telling me they used to do a Koni shock insert mod on the MX6 shocks years ago. Price quoted as $988 for a set of rears supply/mod/fit/aligned. This also includes new coils.

What have other Gen2 4WS MX6 owners done for their cars suspension??

Appreciate any advice offered.
 

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Well don't sound right.

All Series 1 GE1 model Mx-6's are 4WS and from memory very minor difference to the 2WS GE 626 anyway. But KYB are possibly now the only provider and Monroe would make a cheap strut replacement. I haven't touched a 2nd gen suspension in a long time.

For get online - unless you know the part numbers.
better off going to

the fulcrum offer is not bad. Try - Whole Sale suspension in Sydney. I think Penrith.

but I am quite sure that you should be able to sort KYB shocks for them. 4WS model ran longer and is common enough. should be part alone around $300 or less a pair these days.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks rodhog,
the info I was finding also indicated the exclusion of the e-adjustable suspension model.
As it turns out a chance conversation with someone yesterday pointed me towards KYB. More searching turned up KYB 334083 &082 for the fronts and 085's for the rear. Best prices I can get are off line from a mob in the north coast NSW area - $334 pr for rears & $291 for fronts.

Have also been advised to replace the bump stops. So will need four KYB BSK001 bump stop kits.

Is there anything else that I should be considering for replacement as part of this action?

Again, thanks for the response and info.
 

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Might want to replace the rubbers that the top and bottom of the spring sit on.

When I did mine a few years back I got them from Mazda - can't recall how much or if they even do them still.
 

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The spring rubbers are not essential. the Main 3 things on strut suspension that needs changing when replacing the strut are. To mount - very important if they show any major cracks or failings - I've seen in recent years a few cars now separating completely. Amazingly owners still driving. On the front it's the Bearing or top strut bearing. Some Shocks come with new ones - some do not. Bump stops normally because most are depleted by the time owners change the shock.

Depending on the car other items. But Strut top mount - bearing if applicable and bump stop.
Memory serves me correctly the GD to GE's were the same the GF's were different but I think they were all the same plastic type. To be honest I use to in some cars pull them out use heavy axle or similar grease and repack. Never had any issue. I personally always used new ones but I remember ones for the GD I got from the US were steel composite.
Bumps stops - I bought universal bump stops with new gater boots. Didn't always use new gater boots as originals fit best.

Oh and your price sounds about right. fronts are cheaper because same as 626 overall. Rears are always on the high side.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well the front & rear KYB shocks have arrived. New Kings Springs coils have been ordered and should be here in a week or so.
Spoke to the loca Pedder dealer and he has the bump stop kits I need for $90 a pair.

The top plate from the set of rear struts I pulled from my rolling christmas tree ('92 wreck I'm using as a source of spare parts) have bearings in good order and no cracks evident. So I will use them for the new rear struts.

I'll check out the fronts when I pull the old ones out. If they are shot then I'll resort to the set from the spare parts car.

Getting there slowly.

Next thing to consider will be exhaust/headers and what to do to replace the stock air intake with something more efficient. Any ideas folks???
 

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nothing to gain in air intake. unless you got to ZE intake manifold but you loose a little down low and gain is only top end.

exhaust new 2.5inch cat into either 2.5inch or 2.25inch system choice is yours on noise.
a 2.5 with a more restrictive but quitter muffler works the same as a slightly noise non legal 2.25inch system.

As for headers. unlike a KF or K8 - they get massive gains due to the cats on the exhaust manifold. Yes gains are made but well here I shoot my self in the foot.

I have KL- extractor set from long ago for sale $140 in Sydney if your interested. Never fitted them to my 323.

The only issues with them and all them including turbo kits. is the Weld's crack over time.
I was also planning afterwards to ceramic coats only about $300.

Reason I didn't fit right away was going to redo them. You also should use genuine gaskets on the head.
Don't think others won't crack either in the last oh say 3 years I've seen 2 - X-force brand extractors crack on Sr20's and I 've rewelded about 5 Honda units for a mate. only 2 have came back after rewelding and that was due to me just using Mig as temporay fix. The other units I Tigged when I had access to the equipment.

But the big gains and I can tell you worth I'd say .3 down the 1/4 on a SSS pulsar have been the ceramic coatings. The reduced heat soak in the engine meant even on a night of low runners at WSID each run was with in .1 of each other. I did the same in my 626 with FE DOHC on 2nd run better launch and changes I was .4 slower. I could feel it too car struggled to rev out in 1st and 2nd.
 
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