i got a t25 turbo lastnight. its been sitting on my friends bedroom floor for about a year and he didnt no what it was. all he knew was it was a turbo. any ways.a little bit more research about if i can use the same oil lines and replacing the waste gate assembly and some more time and money then it should be fun. yay
t25
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Im sure someone else here will know for sure but AFAIK there is a t25 and a t25g difference being one is ball bearing the other is sleave bearing, both are nissan turbos. As you were saying, do some research there are a few threads on this forum about it. Also just a heads up you will need to modify the existing oil/water lines as they will be different from the stock IHI. Not to mention a new exhaust manifold.
Things you will need to do to fit to a F2T:
3 flanges. 1 for the exhaust housing inlet. 1 for the dump pipe. 1 for the compressor outlet. You can get these cut up for about $50-60. Including one for the inlet.
Get a gasket set to suit the T25 from GCG Turbo's in Sydney. They are $50. you get 5 gaskets. exh housing in, dump, oil drain, compressor in, and compressor out. You can take these to a profile cutter.
4 flanges. 1 for the exhaust housing inlet. 1 for the dump pipe. 1 for the compressor outlet. 1 for the compressor inlet. You can use a standard 2" 2 bolt exhaust flange to mate it the the compressor housing.
You can get these cut up for about $50-60.
Take the turbo and an F2T oil feed line to a line and fittings shop. Get a nipple that will fit the oil line and the turbo. Take some water line of the same diameter to that off the standard setup also. Get some fittings that suit the centre cartrige.
You can use a standard exhaust manifold, and get the flange welded on. As for the compressor outlet, if you intend on using the standard rubber hose, get a 1.25" length of 1 3/4" dia pipe welded to it.
The same applies for the compressor inlet, but with 2" piping.
For the dump pipe, it is best to use some 2.5" piping. Get it crush shaped to fit the shape of the turbo housing. Once the exhaust place has done the initial bend down past the A/C compressor, flair it out to 3".
Rough costing will be close to $800.
3 flanges. 1 for the exhaust housing inlet. 1 for the dump pipe. 1 for the compressor outlet. You can get these cut up for about $50-60. Including one for the inlet.
Get a gasket set to suit the T25 from GCG Turbo's in Sydney. They are $50. you get 5 gaskets. exh housing in, dump, oil drain, compressor in, and compressor out. You can take these to a profile cutter.
4 flanges. 1 for the exhaust housing inlet. 1 for the dump pipe. 1 for the compressor outlet. 1 for the compressor inlet. You can use a standard 2" 2 bolt exhaust flange to mate it the the compressor housing.
You can get these cut up for about $50-60.
Take the turbo and an F2T oil feed line to a line and fittings shop. Get a nipple that will fit the oil line and the turbo. Take some water line of the same diameter to that off the standard setup also. Get some fittings that suit the centre cartrige.
You can use a standard exhaust manifold, and get the flange welded on. As for the compressor outlet, if you intend on using the standard rubber hose, get a 1.25" length of 1 3/4" dia pipe welded to it.
The same applies for the compressor inlet, but with 2" piping.
For the dump pipe, it is best to use some 2.5" piping. Get it crush shaped to fit the shape of the turbo housing. Once the exhaust place has done the initial bend down past the A/C compressor, flair it out to 3".
Rough costing will be close to $800.
this 1 has m24 with ar .48 on it. would it be worth puting it on? thanks for the help SABBAi. my mate works at a machine shop so his like ill do flanges for nothing.as long as i help him with his mightyboy. i still havnt baught the turbo yet i told him im not gona buy it unless it will be worth while. it has literaly been a paper weight for the last year lol
The T25 will give you an improvement over the stocky. Having said that, you will be able to run the standard ECU up to 10psi without probs. You will find that the top end is much improved - Doesn't run out of puff quite so early.
Mark, how big is the .80 A/R inlet housing? It shouldn't be much smaller. Does it look like the pic above?
One problem you may have, is that the wastegate actualtor hits the water line that runs along the block. you will have to modify the rod anyways, as you need to rotate the housing anti clockwise by 1" to line up with the stock positioned piping.
Mark, how big is the .80 A/R inlet housing? It shouldn't be much smaller. Does it look like the pic above?
One problem you may have, is that the wastegate actualtor hits the water line that runs along the block. you will have to modify the rod anyways, as you need to rotate the housing anti clockwise by 1" to line up with the stock positioned piping.
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