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Skilz, nice work.
you are still running the vaf, you need to either keep the PCV system metered or vent it all to atmosphere.
Your PCV system is getting un-metered air and the intake manifold is sucking it in.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Skilz, nice work.
you are still running the vaf, you need to either keep the PCV system metered or vent it all to atmosphere.
Your PCV system is getting un-metered air and the intake manifold is sucking it in.
Good lookin out Mazda Carnage I did not know that. That makes since because it was plumbed that way before i started. My t3 gasket went out and i haven't had the time to change it. But when it runs it seems to stay right around 14.7 to 1 unless under boost my zombie chip adds some extra fuel to protect. it goes to about 10 to 1, at 12psi. I tried to post some pic's but it didnt work out. i tried photobucket and my email and still cant get it. someone please Help
 

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Good lookin out Mazda Carnage I did not know that. That makes since because it was plumbed that way before i started. My t3 gasket went out and i haven't had the time to change it. But when it runs it seems to stay right around 14.7 to 1 unless under boost my zombie chip adds some extra fuel to protect. it goes to about 10 to 1, at 12psi. I tried to post some pic's but it didnt work out. i tried photobucket and my email and still cant get it. someone please Help
Why does your Zombie chip add extra fuel?
The PCV set-up shouldn't effect A/F ratio's on boost, when the intake is pressurized no air gets sucked in.
It will get air from vacuum to atmosphere, the #2 and #3 cylinder will get that air, you probably won't notice it on the wideband because the O2 sensor will try and balance it out below 3000 rpm (but that doesn't mean all cylinders have proper A/F's ).
The original ZombieSS chips had boost cut removed and a bit of advanced timing in higher RPM to make more power on a dyno running a stock or T-bird IHI turbo.
It is not the best chip to run big turbo or high boost with, the old Adam Turbo chips and Jay-B chips retained factory timing (as far as I know) and are far more forgiving to detonation if you hit 12.* A/F ratio's. Not sure about the Probinator chip yet, there is one in my 626GT with 45trim T3, haven't boosted more then 17lbs because there are cracks in the turbine housing and the wideband reads air 21.9 A/F under boost. Found a Garrett replacement housing with a mint T3 60trim bolted to it for 80$.... So will soon see about the Probinator chip.

Just paste a pictures address in your next post and we will see if I can insert it.
I think there used to be a minimum number of post by a member before they could post pictures (or something along those lines).
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Im still running stock fuel setup, im suprised that the little injectors can handle 12psi. I was told the zombie chip adds more fuel under boost but i would think being that rich under boost takes some power away and hurts gas millage? Im getting ready to install my fcon setup shortly this should fix this problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It has no bogging, it runs great. I would like to get it all dialed in though. Im not having any luck with pic's. I had a few i posted about mx-6 race history. but that wont show?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
This Turbo is 57 trim , i would like to get an Adam Turbo chip or Jay-B chip. just to have around. I plan on getting a probe gt in the future so it might come in handy.
 

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Dyno plots? I wonder is your bogging out rich is caused by valve bounce.
I doubt it, He doest have enough power to cause that, its his tune. My red probe is on and completely stock motor. and 880cc injectors and bigger tune and have no issue
 

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What tune?
A chip and stock fuel system, I think it's just the factory A/F's on the wideband, I have seen high 10's and low eleven's on stock turbo's at higher boost. I have never checked A/F's at stock boost, maybe after the VAF flap passes a certain point the engine fuels rich.

Skilz, extra fuel isn't always a bad thing I notice more torque when very rich, the extra fuel is used to cool charge air and helps keep combustion temps down (until it's to rich).

When are you checking the wideband? you want to pay most attention to it a high RPM's, especially in 4th and 5th. Based on the fact it is so low in the dash you might be more likely to check it while shifting. Because of the SSQ Bov dumping large amounts of metered air out between shifts you will always be mad rich after shifting.
Unfortunately it looks like a later model HKS SSQ (or knock off), they no longer have a tension adjustment bolt, the F2T has strong vacuum (as far as I can tell) I have seen many B.O.V. that need shimming on the springs and to be set as tight as they can so they wont open at idle, there was a BOV-BPV made for Talons, it was a non adjustable direct drop in that connected to hoses so we custom fit one on a F2T, stayed completely opened at idle on the F2T but worked fine on Eagle Talons.
Even with stiff springs they will still open when vacuum rises so you don't have come off boost for the BOV to open. You can keep the needle below 0 (atmosphere) in the IN. Hg and release the throttle it opens. Stiffening the spring does raise the gap in pressure needed to open the valve but it helps minimize the amount of air discharged under low pressure.

Soooo if you are concerned about what's taking power away and causing bad gas millage then get a re-circulation fitting for that BOV

And run it back to the inlet after the Vaf and before the turbo inlet.

When it comes to BOV's I find it best to run it before the intercooler and let it discharge hot compressed air, that way the intercooler isn't cooling the air you are going to discharge to atmosphere and also the main goal of a BOV/BPV is to keep the turbo spooling between shifts, by having the BOV close to the turbo it allows the turbo to keep spooling much easier because there is less resistance between the turbo and blow off valve (intercooler/pipes).
With a BPV however I find it best to put it after the intercooler, in your case getting 12lbs at the intake on a large turbo, say 13.5lbs boost at the turbo, At 100*F inlet air temps the compressed air would be about 253*F before the intercooler, it would be foolish to run that hot air back through the turbo.
Don't know why Mazda put it before the turbo, with the stock turbo at 15lbs boost temperatures would be 310-330* F, then to compress that hot air again.
Even worse the factory BPV leaked above 12lbs boost @ the turbo so allowed a constant stream of hot air into the supply air raising inlet temps, in turn raising compressed air temps which raised inlet temps ever further....
 

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Also what Zombie chip do you have?
I have a couple and the car is definitely leaner with a Zombie chip then an adam or J-B chip due to the timing advance, the difference is greatest in cold weather with the Zombie chip I have seen 11.8 A/F's turn to 12.6 A/F's on cold nights or after adding just a bit to much boost. It is also unforgiving at 12.6 when it comes to pinging/detonation due to the timing advance, this makes boost spikes more dangerous.
With the other chips A/F's seem more constant and easier to work with, accidentally boosting with 13 A/F ratio's for a few seconds doesn't result in a tow truck home ride home.
Transferred the sending unit with walbro pump from my 88gt to my 89gt, I ran the tank bone dry tuning the fuel on extra injectors/fuel pressure regulator. Kept turning up the injectors the A/F's kept rising was boosting pretty high in the 14's A/F and then the 15's A/F the fuel gauge read 1/2 full ... This was on an Adam chip, the engine survived a couple more years until I increase boost to the point that timing, pressure and temperature would cause detonation no mater how rich I made it on that fuel or how cold charge air was. The point of water/meth injection or octane additives or timing control ...
As a mater of fact I would say the probinator chip might be good as well, I am running one in my 626 and 2 years ago when trying to adjust/get working a Halteck F5 injector controller (That didn't work) I was running about 18 lbs with high 13 A/F ratio's for a couple minutes and the engine survived.

So if you have a regular Zombie SS chip stay below 12 A/F ratio's at high rpm.
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Also what Zombie chip do you have?
I have a couple and the car is definitely leaner with a Zombie chip then an adam or J-B chip due to the timing advance, the difference is greatest in cold weather with the Zombie chip I have seen 11.8 A/F's turn to 12.6 A/F's on cold nights or after adding just a bit to much boost. It is also unforgiving at 12.6 when it comes to pinging/detonation due to the timing advance, this makes boost spikes more dangerous.
With the other chips A/F's seem more constant and easier to work with, accidentally boosting with 13 A/F ratio's for a few seconds doesn't result in a tow truck home ride home.
Transferred the sending unit with walbro pump from my 88gt to my 89gt, I ran the tank bone dry tuning the fuel on extra injectors/fuel pressure regulator. Kept turning up the injectors the A/F's kept rising was boosting pretty high in the 14's A/F and then the 15's A/F the fuel gauge read 1/2 full ... This was on an Adam chip, the engine survived a couple more years until I increase boost to the point that timing, pressure and temperature would cause detonation no mater how rich I made it on that fuel or how cold charge air was. The point of water/meth injection or octane additives or timing control ...
As a mater of fact I would say the probinator chip might be good as well, I am running one in my 626 and 2 years ago when trying to adjust/get working a Halteck F5 injector controller (That didn't work) I was running about 18 lbs with high 13 A/F ratio's for a couple minutes and the engine survived.

So if you have a regular Zombie SS chip stay below 12 A/F ratio's at high rpm.
Im not to sure what zombie chip i have. But i also have a ecu with boost cut only that ill be using with my Fcon and a set of 460cc redtops. I would like to see some numbers like this car in this video https://youtu.be/2MdRsu5ZA6M?list=LLS_3XFxQ-rwY6UF2GdwlC_Q
 

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I would like to see some numbers like this car in this video https://youtu.be/2MdRsu5ZA6M?list=LLS_3XFxQ-rwY6UF2GdwlC_Q
Yet another F2T engine with terminal valve bounce, look at the graph it starts at 4000rpm.
That is one of the worst I have seen.

And no, the valve bounce is not caused by how much power you're making, it's caused by weak stock valve springs and high exhaust manifold pressure.
The smaller the turbine housing and the higher the boost you're trying to run, the worse it gets.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Over the winter I'm going to pickup a extra engine so I can build it to hold some good boost. I'm wanna build a low budget monster with dual valve springs and forged rods. any ideas?
 

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Please define what you mean by "Monster"
-Do you want a car that will do nothing untill 4000 rpm and then rip the steering wheel out of your hands, or
-Do you want a driveable car that will make usefull boost below 3000 rpm pinning you into the seat right off the lights.

Depending on what your turbo actually is you could be going either way.
If the compressor is a genuine T04E 57 trim you have a ~450hp capable turbo. The turbine side will decide which of the above scenarios will apply.

I know which one I'd prefer, either can make a lot of hp and torque but your decisions on the spec will differ.

Dual valve springs = YES!!!!

Forged rods = The stock rods already are forged, however the stock rod cap bolts have proven to be a failure point at high rpm high power. Replacement of these when doing an engine rebuild is pretty much required, At least with brand new stock bolts.

Forged piston = Yes, but only if you want some insurance and the ability to alter your compression ratio. Good tuning will net you a lot more insurance than forged pistons.

Cam = Not required but if you can get your hands on an FE4J cam then that will extend torque curve a little and free up some more hp. Do not bother with regrind cams, stick with Mazda, they know what they're doing.

Tuning = Proper control over the fuel and ignition advance curve is preferred. There's only so much you can do with a chipped ECU. Sure some have had good results with add on controllers but these are hard to find for our engine nowadays.

Engine = a decent rebuild and balance is preferred but if the engine is low miles and well cared for then it's probably not required.

Porting = For the cost/effort it's probably not worth it, if you do it yourself then it will probably make 0hp difference. If you pay a pro to do it you might get 5-10% extra hp for a full port/polish/seat cut. It's much easier and cheaper to put an FE4J cam in or run 1-2 more psi boost.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The Street Sweeper

I was able to start a Garage finally. and i add some pics of my build. Check out my Garage and tell me what ya think Everyone?
 
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