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I was able to start a Garage finally. and i add some pics of my build. Check out my Garage and tell me what ya think Everyone?
Looking good.
What's with the stock manifold? looks like you had a flange installed and a wastegate fitting but went with the Ebay manifold, did you have the turbo flange re-welded when you had the external wastegate welded on?.
The exhaust wrap is a good Idea since there is no heat shield, but the ebay manifold welds have been known to melt and leak...
Also did you spray the exhaust wrap or is it DEI Titanium wrap?

400 foot pounds torque at the wheels.
What kind of clutch are you running? (If you swap clutches, change the cranks rear main seal)
I would highly recommend pulling the transmission apart (can be done on the car), remove the differential and have the differential shaft welded on both ends of the housing.
The differential shaft does not move, welding it does not change how the diff performs.
The shaft is held in by a tiny role pin, under high torque launches and heavy engine loads and hard turning the role pin shears off and the differential shaft floats around in the diff and chafes against the transmission housing until it either cuts through it or while spinning upward comes out of the diff far enough that it hits the edge of the transmission housing smashing a hole through the aluminum and destroying the transmission pinions.

-For those with the stock role pin holding the diff together. If you ever hear chafing coming from the transmission at idle, check the transmission fluid for aluminum bits. If there is aluminum then the diff shaft is probably loose, if you catch it in time a simple dis-assembly, complete cleaning and welding of the diff shaft can save the transmission.

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You will definitely want to do some suspension work, getting 3 times the factory horsepower is a lot easier then getting 3 times the factory handling out of these cars. You will notice after a certain amount of power on stock suspension the car will bounce and dip on accel. and decel. making the car a bit difficult to handle at WOT unless your in a straight line.
Solid sway-bars and polyurethane bushings/link kits make a big difference.
Good struts and springs make a nice difference but choices are limited shy of customizing or spending 1000$, tokico blue's are discontinued. 2nd Generation STAGG brand struts from Ebay perform as good as tokico and cost 150$ for 4 (rear's need a bit of work to fit).


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-I also recommend running a heavier weight motor oil, 10w-40 or 20w-50 and change it at or before regular intervals.
-Run a quality thick Gear oil in the transmission, some people disagree and prefer ATF fluid but the gear oil protects the diff pinions much better than ATF.
-Finally the head gasket, what is the age of the engine 24-28 years old, when was the head gasket last changed? was it ever? if so what did they use?
Years ago a member here SleepCounter once said when you change the head gasket on an F2T it's never the same, I always found that weird, I can assemble F2T from pieces and make them run like factory, swapped many dozen heads all with good results. What I think he meant was once the head gasket goes the engine will never be the same, to that I agree, in my experience if you over heat once with an F2T you burn the crown of the pistons and warp the head...
Felpro head gaskets are cheap and reliable, you can undo all the vacuum sensors from the firewall, anything connected between the head and block/engine bay and lift the head, intake, turbo all together, clean both surfaces and reassemble with new gasket. I have done this job in a little over 2 hours, with someone to help lift the head and shopvac the block while I scrubbed the surface.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
Yes i had the stock manifold fabed to hold the new turbo but i liked the ebay header a lot so had it fabed up. I still have it, i might sale or keep it for my probe i plan on getting. i did not know that i needed to spray the wrap. The clutch is good for over 425 foot pounds. I tried a thick oil in my Trans and i couldnt shift it so i went back to a synthetic atf.
 

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I ran 110w190 or 115w 185 gear oil and the only trouble it caused was at about -20* Celsius the car had a hard time starting.

Never had a shifting issue though.
I Run 85w 90 gear oil constantly without issue.

Although all my suggestions sound annoying, they are all precautions that save you from far more frustrating outcomes.
Just don't want to see you give up on an amazing built engine because ancient gaskets or seals fail. The fact that on engines this old the gaskets can hold up all these years is impressive. 24 + year old gaskets and seals holding up is crazy, expecting them to handle higher power is insane.
 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
I ran 110w190 or 115w 185 gear oil and the only trouble it caused was at about -20* Celsius the car had a hard time starting.

Never had a shifting issue though.
I Run 85w 90 gear oil constantly without issue.

Although all my suggestions sound annoying, they are all precautions that save you from far more frustrating outcomes.
Just don't want to see you give up on an amazing built engine because ancient gaskets or seals fail. The fact that on engines this old the gaskets can hold up all these years is impressive. 24 + year old gaskets and seals holding up is crazy, expecting them to handle higher power is insane.
Thanks Again. I will be addressing as much of these problems as possible. As you know i have A LOT of time and money invested at this point. So Reliability and longevity is most important. This is my second mx6 gt, I owned a 91' Back in 2000 and wanted to do this to it but my Daughter was born and money got tight. and it rusted out here in chicago. so i sold it for $300. This one i have now will never see salt, I plan on dialing it in over the winter. Thanks for all your help
 

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hey fellas I'm having a problem I bought a 1988 Mazda MX6 GT. I'm trying to upgrade the turbo what kind of trouble can I go without blowing the motor
 

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Discussion Starter #26
Find a specialist that can build you an exhaust manifold to hold your new turbo, don't waste money on the ebay manifold flanges are always warped and metal is to thin. If done right you could do it all for between $2000-$2500. Good Luck
 

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hey fellas I'm having a problem I bought a 1988 Mazda MX6 GT. I'm trying to upgrade the turbo what kind of trouble can I go without blowing the motor
That depends on your budget.
I agree with skilz about not using the Ebay manifold, Just buy a Mild steel T3 turbo flange from ebay or wherever and have it welded to the factory F2T exhaust manifold.

-Standalone and E85, the rods will be the limiting factor. (?Hpr)
-Standalone and pump gas, timing will be the limiting factor (Probably 400hpr)
-Stock ecu with chip and fuel management, Factory timing restriction (300hpr with effort).
-Stock ecu, chip, fuel will be your limiting factor, if the factory turbo could take it 18lbs boost would be the limit, with a t3 45 trim 15lbs boost, 12 or 13 on a 60trim t3 and so on... Upgrades like P&P, higher CR pistons, larger exhaust and intake pipes all promote better air flow and consume more fuel resulting in less boost...

Cheap build:
Gaskets 120$
Clutch 350$
Exhaust 250$
Pipes and intercooler 250-300$
Bov or Bpv 50-100$
Junk yard turbo 200$
wideband 200$
Chip, FPR, Fuel pump 160$
Oil, coolant, transmission fluid, fittings, lines, cleaning supplies, surprises 450$.

Yup I guess I agree with Skilz.
 

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Carnage, you said timing was the limiting factor for pump gas. Any idea what the max timing that has been tried and pushed is for the F2T? I've searched a ton of times and can never find out. Even comparing MS maps for timing all yields relatively modest timing maps


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Carnage, you said timing was the limiting factor for pump gas. Any idea what the max timing that has been tried and pushed is for the F2T? I've searched a ton of times and can never find out. Even comparing MS maps for timing all yields relatively modest timing maps


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I do not know how much timing can be pulled, every ones build is quite different and many run higher compression pistons which will limit the amount of maximum boost they can run on pump gas.

As you increase boost, cylinder pressure increases, you back off timing to reduce the cylinder pressure. At a certain point reducing timing can no longer reduce cylinder pressure and temperatures they will get high enough to ignite the air fuel mixture early (detonation). At this point the options are higher octane fuel, lower piston compression or water meth injection.

-Higher octane fuel, well the sky is the limit but it's not cheap and usually illegal for street use, you can go from race fuels to alcohol fuel blends right up to Nitromethane but tuning to make the most power possible on the higher end race fuels results in short engine life.

-Lower compression pistons will allow for more boost before hitting the timing wall, the small loss of block horse power and small lose in hpr per pound of boost are less then the power gained from flowing more air on the same timing (provided the turbo can supply it).

-Water meth injection has great cooling property's and helps keep cylinder temperatures down reducing the chances of detonation, allowing to run more timing or giving you a bigger timing window to tune in but eventually either there will be a limit to how much water/meth and fuel the air will soak up or pulling timing will no longer relieve cylinder pressure and the rods will fail .

-E85 has great cooling property's and from what I have read (when tuned properly) the horsepower wall will be cylinder pressure on most vehicles before reaching the saturation limits of the charge air.
 
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