Looking good.I was able to start a Garage finally. and i add some pics of my build. Check out my Garage and tell me what ya think Everyone?
What's with the stock manifold? looks like you had a flange installed and a wastegate fitting but went with the Ebay manifold, did you have the turbo flange re-welded when you had the external wastegate welded on?.
The exhaust wrap is a good Idea since there is no heat shield, but the ebay manifold welds have been known to melt and leak...
Also did you spray the exhaust wrap or is it DEI Titanium wrap?
400 foot pounds torque at the wheels.
What kind of clutch are you running? (If you swap clutches, change the cranks rear main seal)
I would highly recommend pulling the transmission apart (can be done on the car), remove the differential and have the differential shaft welded on both ends of the housing.
The differential shaft does not move, welding it does not change how the diff performs.
The shaft is held in by a tiny role pin, under high torque launches and heavy engine loads and hard turning the role pin shears off and the differential shaft floats around in the diff and chafes against the transmission housing until it either cuts through it or while spinning upward comes out of the diff far enough that it hits the edge of the transmission housing smashing a hole through the aluminum and destroying the transmission pinions.
-For those with the stock role pin holding the diff together. If you ever hear chafing coming from the transmission at idle, check the transmission fluid for aluminum bits. If there is aluminum then the diff shaft is probably loose, if you catch it in time a simple dis-assembly, complete cleaning and welding of the diff shaft can save the transmission.
You will definitely want to do some suspension work, getting 3 times the factory horsepower is a lot easier then getting 3 times the factory handling out of these cars. You will notice after a certain amount of power on stock suspension the car will bounce and dip on accel. and decel. making the car a bit difficult to handle at WOT unless your in a straight line.
Solid sway-bars and polyurethane bushings/link kits make a big difference.
Good struts and springs make a nice difference but choices are limited shy of customizing or spending 1000$, tokico blue's are discontinued. 2nd Generation STAGG brand struts from Ebay perform as good as tokico and cost 150$ for 4 (rear's need a bit of work to fit).
-I also recommend running a heavier weight motor oil, 10w-40 or 20w-50 and change it at or before regular intervals.
-Run a quality thick Gear oil in the transmission, some people disagree and prefer ATF fluid but the gear oil protects the diff pinions much better than ATF.
-Finally the head gasket, what is the age of the engine 24-28 years old, when was the head gasket last changed? was it ever? if so what did they use?
Years ago a member here SleepCounter once said when you change the head gasket on an F2T it's never the same, I always found that weird, I can assemble F2T from pieces and make them run like factory, swapped many dozen heads all with good results. What I think he meant was once the head gasket goes the engine will never be the same, to that I agree, in my experience if you over heat once with an F2T you burn the crown of the pistons and warp the head...
Felpro head gaskets are cheap and reliable, you can undo all the vacuum sensors from the firewall, anything connected between the head and block/engine bay and lift the head, intake, turbo all together, clean both surfaces and reassemble with new gasket. I have done this job in a little over 2 hours, with someone to help lift the head and shopvac the block while I scrubbed the surface.