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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to be removing the oil pan so I can equip it with an oil drain for my turbo. With it off, what sort of maintenance can be done to the bottom end without tearing it apart? Should I check and retorque the caps? leave everything alone? dump sand in it? :)
 

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a note from when i did mine, if you have a cork gasket on there, remove and scrape it off and reinstall it with just silicon. that shit leaks bad and its not supposed to be there. also you cant access the bottom end without removing the stiffener windage tray thing, and mine was glued on so well i wasn't able to get the oil pump off lol.
 

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Mine leaks with silicone after a couple of years. :( I have to get in there and redo it. Is there any other recommended gasket? I hate using silicone.
 

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Just go to the dealer and buy there silicone wayyy better
 

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from the factory, they didnt use any gasket. obviousely you need to either clean off the surface better, or use a correct gasket maker. ive never had any issue's after sealing a oil pan.

best stuff ive found to do it, is go to a local honda dealer, and get a tube of honda-bond. stuff is top notch. but even basic black gasket maker works fine.
 

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Well, once you have the pan off and that plate, its an easy step to swap out the rod bearings...
 

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Just go to the dealer and buy there silicone wayyy better
If only there were a dealer close-by. :(

obviousely you need to either clean off the surface better, or use a correct gasket maker.
I'm pretty sure I cleaned the hell out of it...and used gasket maker. But I might have used too much or something. Who knows! For all I know, it could be the cam seal leaking everywhere. I already replaced the crank seal, so that's probably unlikely.
 

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another possibility is a warped oil pan. they are just stamped steel, which really isnt the highest quality. and as you said, you can use too much, at which point it wont seal properly.
 

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the gray silcone from mazda is great. when u do the pan, also do the windage tray also, 4 more bolts and it come off. make sure all the old slicone is removed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
do you really have to do the windage tray? Does that actually have any bearing on the performance to the oil pan seal?
 

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Its better if u do it, like megalo said its 4 more bolts and no leaks
 

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do you really have to do the windage tray? Does that actually have any bearing on the performance to the oil pan seal?
no u dont have to
 

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Bad karma if u dont it right :p
 

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the windage tray has silcone on it to and it bolts to the block and the oil pan seals up to the windage tray, plz do it or it will have to be done twice. save some time and do it while its out.
 

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Do not bend the tray when you take it off. Also drop part of the sub frame to give you more clearance taking it out and putting it back in. Nothing sucks worse than not having much room to deal with, having the entire underbody clean and finding the one spot that still has oil on it to smear the pan (gasket sealant) into while trying to line it up. :rolleyes:

Also be very careful of the bolt torque on the 10mm head bolts. Make sure you use a small wire brush on the inside of each hole (pipe cleaner type) to get out the old silicone, make sure you wire brush each bolt to get the silicone off too. It is no fun stripping a bolt into the oil pump (aluminum) when you are already done and no fun snapping a bolt off in the cast iron either. SleepCounter gave me a lot of crap when I was doing mine but I had such a disadvantage with limited time, limited space (apartment complex that did not take kindly to beater cars being worked on in luxury apartments...so I had to be sneaky and do it on weekends even though the maintenance men told on me anyways) on a gravel drive in the middle of summer. In two words, it sucked, it sucked more when I had to do it 3 times.

Also- use a good scraper, get some gasket remover, light sandpaper, alcohol or brake cleaner, and some trowels that are pliable. You want to be able to go around the gasket inside and cut through the sealant sideways all the way around the pan. It's a pain at first but once you get it through, you can wiggle the trowel side to side and slide it down the gasket as you go.

Once you have the pan off, you have access to the bolts that hold the windage tray on. Make sure not to bend the tray when you're taking it off on the flywheel side. Ask me how I know it sucks to have to go to the junkyard and get a new tray because you bent part of it too bad by getting out from underneath the car and accidentally tripping over it. :rolleyes:

Also- buy two cans of this:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au...uto_Permatex_the_Right_Stuff_Gasket_Maker.htm



PS- THX for teh karma and n00dz of monoxides mom.
 

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Very good info, Damian! Will keep all of this in mind and hopefully I don't trip over the windage tray next time I redo the gasket.

I think I might have bent the pan a little when I replaced the seal a few years back. Probably pried too hard or something. Not totally sure though. Either that or/and too much sealant, not enough intelligence.
 
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