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Heya all :wave:

I dont post here much, but i do lurk a bit :muhaha:
Thought id express my thoughts on 1gen TB boots. (yes "rant" is another word)

We all know they split, thats a given.
Everytime i see someone ask what MX6s are like i usually see it come down to 4WS is expensive to fix (we know that) and the TB boots split.

Why is the TB boot such a big problem?!?!
I split mine 2 days ago, drove it for a day off boost (i work nights and CBF looking at it for one day!!), rung the local Mazda joint this morning when they opened. Got it delivered by 10am for barely $100.
I see people (elsewhere) go on about how much of a problem they are etc etc

My thoughts: If a 16yr old bit of rubber fails and cost me $100 to replace, im lucky!! Some of these people should own older cars, whingers!! Im building a RX3, ever tried finding an aerial for one of those things?? Maybe a rear bumper, or a centre console, or a steering wheel etc etc
From the impression i had i thought the TB boot was going to be a $200+ effort IF i could source one from Mazda at all. Was i wrong!!

If you are one of those people, please keep your comments to yourself, you may ward off an impressionable prospective owner from buying such a nice car coz of a measly $100 TB boot that gets replaced every 15yrs.
(/rant)

On another note....
After doing a search for TB boot info a few days ago i noticed a Q that wasnt answered from memory.

Q: How does a car hit boost cut if its LEAKING air??
A: Most factory turbo cars dont run a MAP (Manifold Air Pressure) sensor, they run a MAF (Mass Air Flow) meter. Difference?? A MAP sensor will read what boost pressure the manifold has, easy!! The MAF on the other hand reads the amount of air being sucked into the motor and figures out boost from there. So if it sucks X volume of air, it must have Y amount of boost.
NOW, if you split an intercooler hose and your baby is leaking air on boost, your turbo will suck and suck and suck (yeah baby thats the way....) until the wastegate opens at the given manifold pressure (lets say 10psi if a manual bleed valve is fitted and tweaked up). For the manifold to reach 10psi with a leaking hose the turbo has to work overtime. All this sucking (oh yeah....) makes the MAF think that the car is overboosting coz its now sucking in more air than the motor "should" be using.
We know the factory boost cut is set around 12psi, so when the MAF reads more than X volume of air is being sucked in, the ECU freaks out and makes you headbutt the steering wheel (ie boost cut = motor loses power for second or so).

Hope it helped someone.
Im off to go for a drive and see if the heavier hose clamps fitted to the new TB boot have unbalanced the cars dynamics. (jokes...)

Mark :D
 

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Hey God, long time no read.
I agree.

If anything, I think the turbo coolant hoses are more of a pain in the arse than the TBB. Not meant to be worked on with adult hands. TBB doesn't bother me, replaced it 5 years ago, at $80 it would have to be one of the cheapest things you could buy from mazda and also one of the easiest hoses to replace.
 

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The main problem with the TBB (in my experience) is that people dont' replace them properly so they keep splitting. People who still have the stock IC piping don't bolt the pipe from the IC to the TBB down, so it twists with the engine as it revs... hence ripping the boot. So people end up going through an endless cycle wondering whats wrong.

I personally just replaced it with silicon hose and mild steel piping.
 
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