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Has anyone welded a flange to stock turbo manifold or drilled and bolted one up.
I have welded a mild steel TD05 flange to a factory manifold and made a custom F2T manifold with DSM turbo flange.
I have welded many T3 mild steel flanges to factory manifolds over the years with no issues.

Personally I prefer T3's over 16G's big 16G's and 20G turbo's, despite the mistubishi turbo's high flow ratings I find they create a lot of heat due to the large blades and small housings they run.

You won't be able to bolt the flange to the factory manifold because the center hole of the TD05 flange is very large. But it can be welded to the factory manifold easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have welded a mild steel TD05 flange to a factory manifold and made a custom F2T manifold with DSM turbo flange.
I have welded many T3 mild steel flanges to factory manifolds over the years with no issues.

Personally I prefer T3's over 16G's big 16G's and 20G turbo's, despite the mistubishi turbo's high flow ratings I find they create a lot of heat due to the large blades and small housings they run.

You won't be able to bolt the flange to the factory manifold because the center hole of the TD05 flange is very large. But it can be welded to the factory manifold easily.
I was wondering about heating the manifold first before mig welding it im looking at other turbos even something roller bearing gt3582 or similar.
 

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I was wondering about heating the manifold first before mig welding it im looking at other turbos even something roller bearing gt3582 or similar.
I don't bother heating the manifold, I use flux core wire (no bottle) I set the weld temp high and work a bead all the way around, then I turn the welder up higher and melt through the first weld with a second weld, this heats the cast and keeps the welds from cracking , I do this both inside the flange and outside the flange. I have welded many shitty cast manifold cracks (Honda) using this same technique, when the weld start pooling red you have the right temperature.
Snap the factory studs of with a hammer, grind the factory turbo mount area down 1/8" to 1/4", grind the rusty edge to shiny cast (inside and out) and weld on the flange.

Going with ceramic bearings isn't the best investment with the F2T, the long piston stroke make these engines breath best at low rpm and make for very little turbo lag at low rpm. With a T3 60 trim/ 60 ar compressor, stage 1 48 ar turbine I get full boost (30psi) at 3200rpm in any gear and spin the tires off in 1st 2nd and 3rd, would I want to spend more $ and have boost come on at 2800rpm? Hell No.

GT3582 flows up to 70 lbs per minute, good for 700bhp maybe 650 at the wheels, you want to make 300 whp, sizing the turbo properly is the first step in your build The GT3582R compressor with 70 ar housing runs at peek efficiency from 33lb/min at 25psi to 49lb/min at 39psi and breaths well at higher boosts.
God knows what engine size and rpm that requires, the rpm range and flow potential can be changed based on turbine housing A/R but they only come with A/R's from .63 up to 1.06.
Take a V8 and put on a giant turbo that flows 45lb/min at 5psi than take a turbo half the size that flows 45lb/min at 10psi, as long as boost temps are controlled evenly and the smaller turbo breaths to redline the smaller turbo car will be faster even if the lager turbo car makes more peak hpr.

The F2T has a factory red line of 6250 rpm, you could raise it to 6500 or 6800rpm running stand alone but above that i doubt the head would last long or make worth wile power gains.

Power isn't decided by boost psi but by air volume, mass and density, the more of it and sooner you can force it into the engine the faster your car will be.
 

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I'm not to fussed what goes on it the cheaper the better as I ride bikes alot more.
Than might I recommend a radical idea:
Don't bother with the FE motor if your goal is 300 wheel hpr.

Reasons:
-Is the Mazda FE3 better than all other 2.0l 16v turbo charged 4cylinder engines ever made? No.
-Is the Mazda FE3 ready to run 300whp from factory? Maybe with the right tuning.
-Is the Mazda F2T engine, transmission and ECU capable of 300whp? Yes
-Cost and work of sourcing an FE3, rebuilding it, Stand alone, Tuning, converting it to turbo... for 300whp worth it? No.

I recommend:
-performance clutch.
-2.5" intercooler pipes, larger intercooler or inlet and outlet on the factory unit.
-2.5"-3" exhaust.
-Larger fuel pump.
-Extra injector controller (1200-1400cc extra fuel).
-Boost cut removal ecu chip.
-T3 flange welded to manifold.
-Large T3 or T3/T4 turbo flowing 35 to 50lbs/min running .48 A/R turbine housing.
-Water/Methalhydrate injection 400-600cc.
-Boost control.
-Good or poly control arm bushings.
-Bigger sway bars.
-EBC red or yellow front brake pads.
-New trailing arm and trailing link (not the same as link kits) bushings or parts (they play a larger role in preventing the rear end from dipping than coils, struts and sway bars do on launch, at 28-32 years old no rubber bushing hold their form.
-Cheap motor mount stiffening, pull the 3 transmission mounts one at a time, trace the opening in the rubber out on paper or cardboard, add 1/16" to the trace thickness and cut that shape out of a factory exhaust rubber mount or piece of rubber, insert a rod in the mount bolt hole, bind the rod up, and stuff in 1 piece of rubber, bind the rod up and down or whatever it takes to center the rubber, repeat for the top space, and the other two transmission mounts. Listen to me now and believe me later, the rubber wont fall out, supporting much of a 550lb engine they are always under load, up or down. the results are close to poly mounts without all the engine vibration. Don't do the passenger side engine mount it will cause the knock sensor to trigger.

Durability mods:
-New Felpro head gasket, oil pump gasket, valve stem seals, cam gasket and rear main seal.
-Pull the pistons and clean them and the rings with super clean.
-Have the differential shaft welded to the differential housing (this doesn't change or lock the diff it just keeps the shaft the gears spin on from breaking loose and shooting out the transmission housing.).
-Run moog ball joints with grease fittings, tack weld the ball joints to the control arm.
-Drill the ball joint hole (M8 I believe) to the size needed to use a strut to spindle bolt (M12 i believe), put two washers on the strut tower bolt, pound it through the spindle hub.
-If you run bigger sway bars the front poly link kits will snap, if you use a lager stronger bolt and nut they will tear the link kit cup out of the control arm. Have the cup on the control arm welded to it and have an X welded out from the cup, run 1/2" diameter link kit bolts and lock nuts, drill the control arm cups and link kit cups and bushings to 1/2" use 1/2" I/D black iron plumbing pipe for sleeves.
-New shifter rod bushings and bolts will give you better shifts and keep the shift rod boxes moved by the shift gate in the transmission from wearing out(keeps the shift gate ball centered in the transmission and also reduces wear on the 5th gear shift fork and keeps it from popping out of 5th) or maybe that's running Gear oil instead of ATF in the transmission anyone who tells you ATF reduces shock and friction wear as well as Gear oil, they are full of shit, always run 80w90 high pressure gear oil in the transmission.
-For 300 whp run minimum 10w40 conventional motor oil, preferably 20w50 (these engines like to run rich, thicker oil helps keep fuel from getting down the cylinder walls and keeps more fuel out of the oil helping lubricate everything better and longer, change your oil when the fuel smell from the oil gets to strong, harder you drive the shorter the interval.

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Where you asking about window motors?
pull door skin, unplug the 2 prong window motor connection and deliver 12v + and minus to either side of the motor plug, than reverse + and -. if the widow doesn't move the motor is shot or the bead track is shot. look for front window 626 motors, they are the same as mx6 but because the window is smaller they last much longer. you need to use the Mx6 bracket and bead assembly with the 626 motor if I recall.
 
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