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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I thought I would do some needed body/paint repairs ( plus clutch ) to my still daily driven 95 I4 car (238k) and some paint repairs and upgrades to my occasionally driven 96 M Edition so here is my first dedicated thread of this kind . I will have some questions along the way and try to do some catching up on what has been done thus far to the cars.
Since it's cold weather ( no heat controlled area for paintwork ) I will be starting with the 96 ( given the weak pressure plate in the 95 holds out a bit longer ) . I plan to drop it a bit ,add a lip , possibly change the wheels and eventually repaint the bumpers and rear spoiler due to clear coat peeling .
The starting point with the 96 is getting rid of the noise from the Cam friction gear springs. I put a top end rebuilt lower mile ( car has 133+k ) 94 engine in it due to a low end knock ( I suspect #6 rod bearing but have not tore into it yet ) in the original engine . I do have some info saved concerning the cam gear noise but not sure where to get the correct replacement springs . Anyone have info on where I can order the parts ? Just curious , didn't they change the springs at some point to eliminate this problem ?
Pics and a bit of info of what has been done to come . Thanks for reading .
 

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Discussion Starter #2
A little catching up on the 96 M Edition. I bought this car in late 2010-early 2011 in SC and drove it home to TN. The previous owner told me the head gaskets had just been done and all seemed well until I got it home and did some proper checking. Though it seemed to run fair the head gaskets were leaking oil onto the block and a small tick became a lower end knock which I suspect was the #6 rod bearing from where the noise was coming from . I had a fairly low mile 94 2.5l KLDE from a 626 I parted out so while the engine was out I had the heads reworked , Cleaned the intake/TB ,cleaned and checked the HLA's , replaced all the seals , gaskets , vacuum lines ,water pump , timing belt & components , replaced the knock sensor and a few others , Basically any preventative maintenance I could think of . I also replaced the Clutch , PP and TOB (A few issues I ran into http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-general/242228-small-tip-some-aftermarket-clutch-kits.html#post2347119) I did the oil pump mod/shim mod ( Shimming the oil pump, 3mm, and a how-to with pics......... - ProbeTalk.com Forums) too though I am still a bit on the fence as to whether it was needed or not and used the larger Vette oil filter .
At the time I didn't consider I was using 94 Cams ( IIRC the friction spring issue had been resolved by 96 , please correct me if I am wrong ) or I would have addressed the Cam friction gear springs at that time but to be fair it has just became a bothersome issue of late .
Here are some pics of the car when I got it -
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I didn't take many of the engine swap but here is the "refreshed" 94 engine in and wired up -
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I later installed a CAI and NGK wires and replace cap/rotor-
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At the time I was convinced the VAF needed to be level for proper idle (sharp bend at front ) but I'm not so sure now so that may be another issue to be addressed . I am considering the MAF swap as well , from the reviews it seems to be a win win upgrade .
Removal of the wood grain overlays - At the time I thought a previous owner had added these but it seems that is still out for debate as to whether they could have been stock . I didn't like them so I removed them and painted the dash pieces a matte/low gloss black ( paint has held up well but is a bit shiny ) but would like to replace them later to stock . I also added white face gauges & brushed stainless bezel .Link to that project and a couple pics -
http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-appearance-mods/242714-did-bit-interior-work-today-past-few-days.html
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I tinted the window's around that same time as well -
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You can see the cars desperate need for a "slight" drop in ride height . The peeling and scuffed bumpers are visible as well . Not sure what spring/strut combo to go with but it will most likely be the most budget friendly usable option I can find . I may keep the stock wheels with a slightly wider tire or something that is similar and suits the overall look of the car ( opinions welcome ) .Basically I just want this car to be a decent looking reliable example of the MX6 .
A while back I added a Dynomax testpipe/glasspack and Raven dual chamber/dual exit muffler so I am pleased with the way the car sounds . It has a nice sound that doesn't overwhelm passengers or have a bad drone . I have a clip somewhere that I can add later of the exhaust note .
 

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I replied to you in my thread with some info about the friction gear spring if you want to go back and check it out.

I think those wood grain parts were stock or at least a factory option. I came across an m edition MX6 at the junkyard and that one had the same wood in it. I didn't realize it was an m edition till now. I may have to go back and pull the tail lights. I don't remember what condition they were in but it's worth at least having a look.

How/what did you use to tint your windows? DIY or professionally done? I had tinted my own windows before but I always had trouble with the rear windows.

Overall your car looks great though!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I use to tint but back/neck problems now limit how often I can do it . I did tint the window's (LLumar 20% tint I had left on a roll) myself with the exception of the back glass. I did not have a piece big enough to cover it all in one piece so when checking around local shops for prices ( I don't order it by the roll now but still wanted to use LLumar tint ) I found it would be just as cost effective to let them do it .
Thanks for the info/part numbers and for the complement . I hope you find those M Edition tails , You may want to check for the door seals as well .
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The more I think about it I may just do the maintenance work the M Edition needs , drop it and touch up & detail the paint and leave it mostly stock. May just go with a touch bigger tire and use the stock wheels.

Now for the 95 base model ( I4 5 speed ) . Besides a good drop it needs a few dents fixed and painted which I hope to do this spring . The car has 237k miles on it but still no smoke or oil leaks , it does need a clutch but I have a kit ready to go in it . I have thought a lot about rebuilding the I4 and boosting it . I would have some research to do , most of the turbo builds are V6 cars .

The passenger side is where most of the body work is needed . Dents are circled and aren't too bad but there is a big slab of filler that has to be worked out. From looking inside the car behind the panel all that was put there to cover a fist size dent and quarter sized hole . The rocker has some issues as well but not bad . On the drivers side there is a fist imprint behind the gas filler lid and small dent behind the door . The hood has a spot of filler too and holes for the hoodpins so I hope to replace it . The roof has a couple small dents just above the windows . From what the previous owner told me most of these dents were caused by hitting or kicking it....IIRC he said the one behind the gas lid fractured his hand . I started a bit of cleanup under the hood when I replaced the VCG but it could be better . More to come ...Hopefully :wink2:
 

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The white gauges look nice. After having them for a while, how do you like them ? With those and the wood gone, the interior looks good. How did the mileage get to be
132,000 if you just put them in ?

I have a white mx6, was wondering what those white gauges might look like in mine. Where did you purchase them from ?

Can you post a photo of what the white gauges look like at night ?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the conformation TPW , After I found out they could have been stock it had me concerned but I am glad to find out mine were aftermarket . I do like it better without them .
epxepx , I have had them in the car since 2011 , I was just going back over what I have done thus far to the car(s) to get the build thread up to date . Here is a link to the original thread from when I first put them in , there are more links and details here - http://www.mx6.com/forums/2g-mx6-appearance-mods/242714-did-bit-interior-work-today-past-few-days.html with more pics . I still like them as much or more than I did when I first put them in . I like the good visibility of the white faces during the day too .I plan to leave them but I want to add a relay just for peace of mind . I used the wire going to the dash dimmer switch so they would come on/go off with the headlight switch but it is slightly lower than battery voltage (possibly because of the ECU/PCM ). I plan to let the wire going to the dimer switch activate the relay and use a fused wire from the fuse box as the main power for the relay to the glow gauges . As it is now the glow gauges don't power on ( I have a a few inverters to rule that out as the problem ) with the headlights/dash lights unless the car is running and the only reason I can find is the wire I used to power the glow gauges ( wire going into the dash dimmer ) has around 11.5v until the car is started , then it moves up to 12(+)v and the glow gauges work as they should . Sorry for the long reply but just trying to be as detailed as I can if you plan to run them . Alternatively another power source could be found for the gauges but I don't want to run a wire through the firewall or tap into the headlight switch itself . You can find them on eBay for around $20 - 1995 Mazda MX-6 glow gauges | eBay .

I plan to add trim rings to the gauges , I thought about using black trim rings and keeping the stainless bezel or removing it and just going with the chrome trim rings .
I appreciate the comments and hopefully there will be a lot more updates as spring arrives , a lot of snow and cold weather right now .
 

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Are these only for manual transmissions ? I looked at some, and they said manual transmissions only. I have an automatic.

Why would they only be for manual transmissions ?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Most of the ones I have seen are for automatics , well they were when I was tying to find mine . I see what you mean I went back and looked at eBay. I did find a few -
1. 93 97 MX 6 at Blue Indiglo Reverse Glow White Gauges | eBay
2.Autoconcept Reverse White Face Blue Glow Gauge 93 97 Mazda MX 6 MX6 LS RS At | eBay
3.93 97 Mazda MX6 626 at CF Reverse White Glow El Gauges | eBay
4.I think these are the cheapest ones price wise - BEM 1993 1997 Mazda MX6 MX 6 626 at Auto w RPM Tach Reverse El Glow Gauge | eBay .
 

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I bought some of those white gauges off ebay. They arrived and look okay. The power pack comes with 4 plug ins, the 2 open wires (red and black), and has another wire with 3 leads into a round rheostat.

I guess I could replace the rolling rheostat now on the dash if it comes out easily, and this one fits in the slot. If I want to keep the rolling rheostat, do I still just attach the red wire to one of the wires coming out of it - and just let the new round rheostat dangle inside ?

Or I guess you can attach the red wire to a long lead from one of the parking lights too, for power.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I wouldn't recommend using either ( in or out of the dimmer switch - orange is constant batt voltage while pink/gray is variable coming out of dash dimmer ) for main power to the glow gauge inverter . I ran mine using the orange wire going to the dash dimmer switch so they would come on/go off with the headlight switch but it is slightly lower than battery voltage (possibly because of the ECU/PCM ). As it is now the glow gauges don't power on ( I have a a few inverters to rule that out as the problem ) with the headlights/dash lights unless the car is running and the only reason I can find is the orange wire I used to power the glow gauges ( wire going into the dash dimmer ) has around 11.5v until the car is started , then it moves up to 12(+)v and the glow gauges work as they should . I plan to add a relay and let the wire going to the dimer switch activate the relay and use a fused wire from the fuse box as the main power from the relay to the glow gauges . You will need to keep your rolling factory dimmer switch for the back lighting in the odometer , other dash lights , ash tray ,heater control ect. . You can just run a wire from the parking lights or even tap into them ( parking lights ) at the main light switch if you want . Any bolt screw going to metal in the dash will work for ground just clean it good . Here is a very crude example of the way I plan to rewire mine so it comes on with the headlight switch . -

I would add be sure your gas gauge does not move while installing the gauge faces because it will not reset itself. If possible fill it up before getting started . You can find somewhere under the dash to mount the glow gauge dimmer , I put mine beside the hood latch pull .
 

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Thanks for that. To keep it simple for me:

- for power, can I just run the new red wire to the parking light ?

- then I will have 2 dimmer switches, the existing one and the new one, both serving
different purposes ?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Sorry , I over complicate simple things sometimes ;) . Yea the simplest and easiest way is to run the new red wire to the parking light and find a good ground under the dash . The existing dimmer will continue to control back lighting for the dash lights and the new dimmer will control the color & brightness of the glow gauges . Post a pic if you like when you get them installed , hope it goes well .
 

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Discussion Starter #16
There are some on eBay ( 1995 Mazda MX-6 | eBay ) and these Trim rings are nice (92 97 Mazda MX6 MX 6 626 Cronos Alu Gauge Dial Rings | eBay ) , I am considering finding some in black and adding them . I cant find the link from where I bought mine but I do seem to remember the were cheaper on eBay . They have adhesive strips on the back ( two sided tape ) that hod them in place . I will post if I find more info .
 

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My car is white, with a tan leather interior. What color bezel would go good with that ? I think it would add a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The stainless / chrome / aluminum would look nice . Now that I think about it the white one may look good as well , especially if you painted a black ring/stripe around each opening to break it up a bit , does that make sense ? I can try to make an example pic if you want . . The good thing about the white one is it can be repainted another color if it doesn't look right .
 

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I bought the aluminum one. I think it will go well and break up the white area a bit, and match the car. Didn't want to try the chrome one, just don't like chrome much.
 

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I was looking for the colored bulbs and colored gelcaps for the small bulbs that go on the fuel and temperature gauge.

I found the colored bulbs for the tach and speedometer. No store had the gelcaps. I checked with Oreillys, Autozone, Advance Auto.

How can I make the small bulbs colored without gelcaps ?
 
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