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Discussion Starter #1
Had a safety/emissions inspection done today, and ofcourse the ball joints on the left rear was out of whack. Assuming I have to replace the lot, are these parts even available anymore? hard to fix?

Also, ABS.. anyone got a trick to get the light to work "properly" (e.g. flash on when you turn on the ignition, then turn off again when you start the engine) without actually reconnecting the ABS system? Mine has been disconnected for years, and i doubt i'll get it working again if I try. Not that I can afford new sensors either...
 

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I got my rear ball joint replaced a year ago. Parts were availible through USA dealer. If you can't get them i will check here for you.

Have you contacted a dealer in your area?

Best bet on the ABS is to pull the light out of the dash. I got sick of the black electrical on my dash.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I'm gonna check with my dealer. How much did it cost you? I also need to check if its only one or both, so I can order the right parts...

Also they check that the ABS light goes on when you turn on the ignition, so I have to do something clever. That is, the actual ABS light isnt in my dash, but my regular brake warning light doesnt light up when i turn on the ignition unless I pull the e-brake. Thats not good I guess?

Sigh. This really has been a [shizzle] day...

Project at school going to hell in a handbasket, parking ticket at school due to me forgetting to move the parking permit slip from my 4WS to the mazda 6 i drove to school today, and now I have to source parts and get everything lined up so I can get the car through inspection before end of december.

The one highlight in this whole shebang is that the only faults were mechanical, no body rust issues or anything like that.

Significant problems (aka. plates off if i dont fix it before end of december):

- Handbrake wire sluggish and sticks on (right side)
- Handbrake - >50% difference in braking power between left/right side
- ABS warning light non-functional
- Slack in the ball joints, rear left
- non-oem steering wheel not entered in the pink slip

Also, as usual, they complained abit about the plate lights not working, but who cares :D
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The mazda6 handles like a nervous deer, the stereo is crap, the seats are crap, i cant get cold air in the face at the same time as i get warm air on my feet + windshield, and did I mention the 6 is a base model 2.0 with an auto trans? slow as [shizzle]...

If my 626 4WS had AC and cruise control, there would be exactly NO reasons for me to prefer the mazda6 over the 626 4WS. Except ofcourse the fact that the 6 is a lot safer to crash in... :D
 

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man. the JDM 6's must be garbage. even with all my upgrades to my 626gt with the mx6gt seats, and tons else. it cant compare in any way to my mazda6 daily. other then straight line performance that is. id sell off my fe3-t 626gt before my 6. of course my 6 was actually built here in the states, so is a bit different then the JDM built ones.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's a base model, and im pretty sure there's something odd in the suspension, but my parents refuse to have it checked out properly. Also, you probably have a proper engine (not the anemic 140hp 2.0) in your 6, that helps.

I do hope you have something other than the base model seats aswell, or even the mid-level upgrade seats, because they are, in a word, CRAP. I get lower back pain from driving a mazda6, I dont get that from driving my 626 with GT seats. go figure.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ok, update from the mechanic. Its only the stabilizer balljoint that is loose... less parts to swap, yay me.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Fucking hell.

$390 for the part i need... (G238-28-300B) at the dealership in .no, thats WITH a rebate. nuts.

checked it in the UK via a friend... £144+VAT

But I'm gonna inspect it abit closer to check if its just the bushing thats goner, always possible to get a new bushing made for a heck of a lot cheaper than $390...

Also I haven't been able to actually FIND the ABS light in my dash, so the mechanic must have had a bad day. Gonna fix what I have to and get it inspected again somewhere else.
 

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241.38 Just called my dealer here local and they want 241.38 for it. That is retail here in usa. I think he said it only takes a week to get it. I think i could get 10% off too. Try raysseacoast mazda. They have a website and i can't remember the url.

If you want to me get you one and ship it, just ask.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The bushings (top and bottom) on the arms on both sides are goner, doubt I can get just the rubber bits for them loose, so I will need to swap them.

I'll jump on that offer later, gonna take off the plates for now, I don't have the time, energy or cash to fix the car right now, it'll have to wait untill summer. Fuck trying to fix this bullshit when its -20C outside.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
-1 front fender and headlight.

I hate driving in town during the winter, old fart had to brake hard for a pedestrian in an intersection and I slid right into him. meh. What I get for not keeping enough distance.

At first glance, it looked like only plastic/glass damage, but I'm not so sure anymore..


"oops"




Notice the support stud for the rad? its not supposed to sit that low in the bracket.









 

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Discussion Starter #16
Looks like the beam that goes in front of the rad is bent slightly inwards, but according to a friend who's been dealing with this kind of damage a few times, its easily fixable.

- I have a spare fender
- New indicator light / headlight is less than $150 new
- No damage to the radiator or drivetrain/suspension as far as I can see so far

Basically, of all the ways i could have hit someone, this is about as good as it gets when it comes to damage, very little(or no) plate damage.
 
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