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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi ladies and gents...

ok I have a question regarding the timing belt adjustment.

well before I take it out it was saying it has to be on the TDC before removing the belt.

I did it all as instructed in the book but now it plays funny...the cylinder 1 must be up and the arrow for no. 1 on the cam shaft pulley must be right upward. and the buttom pulley (crankshaft pulley) must be set to TDC.

Now some people told me its the "T" sign on the plastic cover which needs to be on the yellow mark on the pulley so that it is in TDC.

well I did all that and now when I accelerate its like it wants to choak or something, something perhaps to do with valves.

The timing belt was installed properly but I am thinking maybe it should have been set to "10" instead of "T" but i remember it was on T when I took it off (or i guess so)...

now this is funny and acceleration is extremely (and I mean extremely poor) and hardly the turbo will kick in and the bov reacts. Not to mention idling at over 1100rpm (sometimes 1500rpm) most of the times but rarely at 800.

I did also clean the EGR valve as well.

what could be the problem here? any expert out there who could sense what the problem is roughly?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
lol...yeah all bolts are tightened and the timing belt aint loose..I had them checked but that choaking (like a carby with too much fuel in cylinder) type of thing that happenes does it have anything to do with bolts?

about the cam sprocket (camshaft pulley) well i used a torque tool to tighten its bolt and it was fine....could that effect really happen with a loose bolt? cause whatever it is it happenes when i try to like over take or accelerate in higher revs (over 4000)...and thats when it occurs...

im totally clueless...:(

thanks heaps for the posts and replies guys....it all helps in solving the issues and overlooking previous work that has been done but no success yet...
 

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yea i aggree with time

check ignition timing.
check cam timing.

then you know where you stand.

then tell us whats wrong and us net mechanics can send you on the run around.... oh i think this i think that.... do those 2 items. then go see a mechanic if problem still arrises.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ok boys just went to my mechanic and guess what was the problem....?

the spark leads..on the dissy they were like sticking to eachother I mean next to each other with no gaps and the exhaust manifold touching it tight.....he actually touched one of the leads on the dissy and in return got a bit of electric shock..haha...but he looked at it and in less than 5 min he fixed it....

there I go one problem solved but I still have the high idling which as you guys said could be the timing whether ignition or the engine timing which I need to get into it and see how it goes....maybe a tune up would do....

FOR THOSE WHO HAVE SIMILAR PROBLEMS AND POWER ISSUES AS MINE...CHECK YOUR LEADS OR REPLACE THEM.....my car was loosing lots of power as sparkles wouldnt go into the cylinders properly and hit the nearesr metal thing to them therefore no power......

thanks all
 

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err what were you doing playing with the leads if you were doing timing belt. lol.

and about high idle. if you havent touched idle ajustments and you did disconnect battery. i think (not too sure just guessing) you reset stepper motor. it controlls engine idle and high idle speed. id first reset it by reseting ecu. disconnect battery negative for bout 1 minute. hold foot on brakefor bout 30 seconds and reconnect. start car. let it idle for a couple of seconds and then if auto put into drive with foot on brake for like 5 seconds. engine speed should set. then turn on a/c. engine speed should set again. if manual just a/c phase.

this works on mitsu magnas but should be roughly same

dont forget engine will high idle if cold

if still high idle. maybe the temp sensor is disconnected or damaged. when you were playing with leads. do first check first
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
loool...I dont know what was with the leads hehehe...well before the timing I was fixing the exhaust leak and the heat shield well has a little extra bit in the middle if you know what I mean...maybe i hit the lead a few times but no damage....well it was touching the leads constantly and on the dissy to lead caps were like seting next to each other but never thought that would be an issue...

for the idle well I know I had to disconnect the negative but I didnt cause there was no electric connection with timing belt even the book says you have to....but maybe thats why....

I will try to reset the ecu and see how it goes...

so all i do is reset and then a/c? it is a 4 spd manual.....

thanks mate for the tips..hehe I do that and will let you know how it went....:cool:

SHIFTY__1 said:
err what were you doing playing with the leads if you were doing timing belt. lol.

and about high idle. if you havent touched idle ajustments and you did disconnect battery. i think (not too sure just guessing) you reset stepper motor. it controlls engine idle and high idle speed. id first reset it by reseting ecu. disconnect battery negative for bout 1 minute. hold foot on brakefor bout 30 seconds and reconnect. start car. let it idle for a couple of seconds and then if auto put into drive with foot on brake for like 5 seconds. engine speed should set. then turn on a/c. engine speed should set again. if manual just a/c phase.

this works on mitsu magnas but should be roughly same

dont forget engine will high idle if cold

if still high idle. maybe the temp sensor is disconnected or damaged. when you were playing with leads. do first check first
 

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I think I have said a fair bit in these forums to keep leads away from metal things and use the clips on the rocker cover. I found out that problem myself too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
timtx5 said:
I think I have said a fair bit in these forums to keep leads away from metal things and use the clips on the rocker cover. I found out that problem myself too.
i know...silly me never really read that section in the forums...well I am using clips but my leads are the 9mm eagles. well my heat shield upper plates (blade thinggy) were not flatted on the manifold so it was up and touching the leads...

i learnt m,y lesson to to let the leads tyouching any metal areal near them...:p

91turbo666 said:
spark leads.......i swear they self destruct if you ever go near them. they must be single use or something:freak:
i know..I am not sure how long they were on the car as I bought the car like 2 months ago almost...So I reckon I have to change them just to be sure....a 10 year old lead still would look new if cleaned..so there is no way I could tell how long this was on...
 

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If they work, dont change them I reckon.

I had no problems with my standard ngk's, now I have been through a few different sets trying to get hte right one. A lot of the other ones just arent as good quality. Both bosch's and top guns will have the end pulled off them if you are not careful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
well you are probably right since its a good one I got its just dont know how much its done. but I guess I leave it for now and save myself some money if they are working fine...

Instead I can pay for a K&N filter or something...
 
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