[SoloTimeMX6]

I've developed a tick coming from my engine a few weeks ago. I assumed it was the HLA's, to remedy the problem I ordered some AutoRx, its on its way and I have not used it yet. But the more posts I read the more I second guess my original diagnosis. The sound is coming from the rear engine on the passenger side. The reason I did not originally assume timing belt tensioner is because I replaced the tensioner arm when I did my ZE swap approximately 3 months ago. The tick is most audible at around 2000 rpm. Is there anyway I can find out what the problem is or is it mostly trial and error? also is it the arm or the bearing that usually goes bad? Any help is appreciated

Thanks
Bryan

 

[KING6]

its not the arm or the bearing, its that actuall part the forces pressure onto the arm witch keeps the belt constantly tight.

If you devolped the tick recently, its most likely that.
A good way to tell is if the motor idles higher or lower. Also in due time the belt will eventually skip a tooth or 2 and the motor will run rought.

Also, since you got the rx junk, try it and see if it does anything.

Hla tick usually sounds more like a mellow tick..
the timeing belt sounds more like a rapid tick, when revd higher it sounds like oil isnt getting to the top end..

 

[john101]

Also, since you got the rx junk, try it and see if it does anything.

Bryan, any chance we can get you to run a test of the Auto-Rx? Do a before, after clean phase, then after the rinse phase compression check. Maybe also pull the front valve cover to take pics of before and after. Also check before, during and after MPG. Since you have a used engine installed, I think the ARX is a great idea, no matter what. You don't know the service history of the ZE before you got it, and it will now get a nice long cleaning.

If it doesn't make any noticeable difference, myself and others will stop pushing the Auto-Rx as a great product. If it does work, others (who've never tried it) can stop bashing it.

If you don't have or can't borrow a compression tester, maybe we can start a paypal fund to help ya with any testing costs. Only $1-2 per person can make a difference.

 

[Fastest95PGT]

I would also never put AutoRX in my engine, but I do not mind if you put it in yours. :tup:

 

[jdk3034]

Does the sound go away upwards of 2200 rpm? If it does it could be the Friction Gear Spring.

 

[wpendl1]

its not the arm or the bearing, its that actuall part the forces pressure onto the arm witch keeps the belt constantly tight...

That would be the tentioner. The hydrolic "spring".

Since you repalced the tentioner already, I would say this is probably not it. Plus it makes a slapping type sound when going bad. It could be the friction gear spring. It is on the end of the exhaust cam, on the passenger side. HLA wil make more noise when the engine is cold and at idle.

Is it more noticable cold vrs warm? Do you hear it above 3K?

 

[KING6]

Bryan, any chance we can get you to run a test of the Auto-Rx? Do a before, after clean phase, then after the rinse phase compression check. Maybe also pull the front valve cover to take pics of before and after. Also check before, during and after MPG. Since you have a used engine installed, I think the ARX is a great idea, no matter what. You don't know the service history of the ZE before you got it, and it will now get a nice long cleaning.

If it doesn't make any noticeable difference, myself and others will stop pushing the Auto-Rx as a great product. If it does work, others (who've never tried it) can stop bashing it.

If you don't have or can't borrow a compression tester, maybe we can start a paypal fund to help ya with any testing costs. Only $1-2 per person can make a difference.

How about this, Take 2 equally treated motors with the same mileage. do the Rx on one, and change the oil on the other. Run them for another 3000 miles, tear them both down to bear bones and see wich one has more engine wear then the other. do the same test over a lengh of 10,000 miles.. with various rx's and oil changes, and show me the outcome.

nobody ever thinkss "ill sacrifice my main and rod bearings, rings and seals to clean my motor out!"

You don't know the service history of the ZE before you got it, and it will now get a nice long cleaning.

That is so TRUE! wich is why anyone trying to protect there investment and spare there self time, would drop the oil pan, remove the IM and VCS, and degrease the motor inside and out using a petroleum based cleaner (like deisel). Any one smart enough, would replace the timeing belt, waterpump, tensioner, Vc gaskets, im gaskets, and so on anywase. Theres no doubt you would have to over time.
I did it to the motor i got from hughes, and it only had 90k on it, and from the looks of it, it was babied. Although i never changed the hyd tensioner (because of cost) 2 months later i had to replace it...

 

[Nee]

When I rev my engine pass 2K rpms, the engine seems to drown out the ticking sound, not quite sure though. I've eliminated HLA from the list because my car doesnt tick on cold start ups. What are some ambiguous symptoms of a bad friction gear and tensioner?

 

[Fastest95PGT]

Both the FGS and TBT tend to go away at higher rpm's.

 

[schwinn]

Bryan, any chance we can get you to run a test of the Auto-Rx? Do a before, after clean phase, then after the rinse phase compression check. Maybe also pull the front valve cover to take pics of before and after. Also check before, during and after MPG. Since you have a used engine installed, I think the ARX is a great idea, no matter what. You don't know the service history of the ZE before you got it, and it will now get a nice long cleaning.

If it doesn't make any noticeable difference, myself and others will stop pushing the Auto-Rx as a great product. If it does work, others (who've never tried it) can stop bashing it.

If you don't have or can't borrow a compression tester, maybe we can start a paypal fund to help ya with any testing costs. Only $1-2 per person can make a difference.

I have done "part" of this test process during my AutoRX treatment, which is just finishing up the second rinse phase. Here is what I can tell you from an objective opinion:
1) Slight HLA tick before AutoRX was silenced after 150 miles (I used M1 5w30 before AutoRX, and used Esso 5w30 during AutoRX treatment. I have also tried using regular oil in the past, resulting in increased HLA tick.)
2) Oil consumption was about 1qt every 3k miles before AutoRX. Now is about half that during this final rinse phase.
3) Might be a slight reduction in smoking after running hard - I have never replaced the VCGs and so they leak onto the exhaust manifolds, causing smoke when driven hard. Consumption is not excessive due to this leak, just a little smoke coming from the engine bay when I stop after this. I do such hard-runs almost daily.

I have kept the oil filter from the M1 5w30 fill before the AutoRX (1756 miles on that oil change interval, treatment started 7/10/04 at 152156 miles). I have kept the oil filter from the first rinse phase of the AutoRx. I am still running the oil filter from the 2nd (current) rinse phase of AutoRx. All oil filters are same brand and type. I have some pictures through the oil-fill hole before AutoRx (when I filled AutoRX the first time).

I can certainly take some pics of the oil fill hole again after this rinse is over (soon), but I don't expect much difference as it was pretty clean looking with all the M1 I have run in the past. I don't know what to do with the oil filters at this stage in the game. (I recently bought a new car to replace my beloved MX6, so I won't be driving her as much anymore...) I had thought about cutting them open and looking inside and such. I don't think an oil sample from the filter would be a fair test, but if you wanted to see UOAs I am sure the BITOG website (which supports AutoRX) would have plenty.

Any thoughts?

 

[wpendl1]

Wow, how did this post turn into an AutoRX debate???:freak:
Keroseen is my engine cleaner of choise. Just my $.02 Cheaper and faster.

 

[KING6]

sounds like your putting your motor in a washing machine with all these rinse cycles

 

[SoloTimeMX6]

The sound is more noticeable on cold start up and the sound also is lest noticeable after 2,500rpm. This is the part I replaced a few months ago http://www.rockauto.com/ref/Cloyes/Detail.html?95324.jpg. Unfortunately my power steering pump is starting to go and that is drowning out the ticking sound. Also I am a bit concerned with putting anything but oil where oil is supposed to go but i have read only good things about AutoRX, check it out on www.bobistheoilguy.com A lot of very knowledgeable people when it comes to oil.

 

[adjat84th]

I ran an AutoRx cleaning and the only thing i've noticed is less oil consumption. My HLAs have ticked ONE time so far this fall and they stopped in a few seconds, but it really hasn't gotten cold yet. I'll say that AutoRX didn't hurt anything, so it's worth a shot.

As for pinpointing your noise to either FGS or you TBT, place a long screwdriver on the timing belt cover and listen for the tick(this would be for the TBT). And then place the screwdriver on the upper part/top of the timing belt cover and listen (this would be close to your FGS).

 

[schwinn]

Although this is not an AutoRX thread, it seems to have gone down that path, so I figured this is as good a place as any to post this.

I ran into a site here: http://www.rms13.com/ from a skeptic of AutoRX. There is lots of detail and lots of pics for a before/after comparison. Long story short, even this skeptic was happy with the cleaning results of AutoRX... and he was kind enough to take pictures.

So, john101, it seems your request for valvecover pics was answered at this page... of course, I just notice that you were the poster of this link in the first place!

Anyway, I am certainly still a believer in AutoRX.