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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I found out after playing with the damn car for a while a couple of things. First, if you fail at rigging up vacuum lines, you're gonna get the code. Which means that if you've tried to hook up the boost sensor solenoid hose straight to manifold vacuum, the light is gonna come on. If you link it with the FPR vacuum line, you're gonna get the code. If you run a KLZE manifold, you're gonna get the code. If you have a malfunctioning map sensor solenoid, you're gonna get the code.

Let's talk about the vacuum lines for a second. Each one of those ports that's on the '96 & '97 have a real purpose. Ironicly enough, you have the same amount of ports on the '98+ G4 manifold so please if you swap manifolds, truely consider the G4 as the only swap. Ok, so you've seen the vacuum line that comes off the #6 runner, right? That's specificly for the FPR solenoid. If you never noticed or never cared, there's a vacuum line coming off the the EGR port running up along #5. THAT LINE IS SPECIFICLY FOR YOUR BOOST SENSOR SOLENOID!



If that line isn't hooked up, when the solenoid is activated for the boost sensor to read the pressure drop off of the EGR being open, it won't know because it's seeing manifold vacuum from from a source it's not supposed to be seeing.

And last but not least, the connectors. Mostly all of us on these forums have a CAI. I know I do. Half of my clients does as well. What some people don't understand is that when the code comes on, the first thing they wanna go change is either the boost sensor of the solenoid or both. One thing I have found out is that if you go unplugging things without finding out their definately location, the car might start running funny. I know ya'll have put the car back together only to find out that when you crunk it up and when the idle finally set, it mystereously started misfiring. So due to instinct, you change both the intake and throttle body gaskets hoping that's gonna solve the problem. But it don't. So you change the spark plugs, you change the coil thinking that it is about to go out and you check the cap. New wires, nothing's happening. Why so? Well, turns out that had you'd pay attention to the connectors, you'd notice that fuel pressure regulator solenoid was connected (accidentally) into the boost sensor solenoid and visa versa. Common mistake turns out. The way you'll know the difference is that the fuel is brown while the boost sensor connector is black. The main reason why the car starts misfiring is because the solenoid is being opened up when it isn't supposed to, which is at idle. The boost sensor sees the vacuum and tries to adjust fuel trim in addition to what it's seeing from the VAF meter. The end result? It dumps fuel at idle and the MIL light comes on for not only your 1195, but also a P0300 multiple misfire. I hope this helps ya'll. Learning on my own (with some buddy's help) sure helped me.

EDIT: Here's the rest of the pictures! They show exactly how the entire assembly should be installed


 
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No one told me about this
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Great info this should be a sticky added with another other info in regards to Vacuum lines and such
 

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No one told me about this
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1,426 Posts
Great info, this is should be a sticky added with other info in regards to vacuum lines ect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Updated: I added pictures and all so you'll know how to hook everything back up.
 
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