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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my second mx6 and I like to think I know the cars pretty well. But what happened on friday really embarrassed me.

With my first mx6 93 mtx. It ran like a 16.2 stock, I figured nice platform to start off with. I installed a cold air intake, testpipe, short-shift and custom 2.5" exhaust. To my amazement I hit a 15.4 and a 15.6 which I missed second a little bit so I like to think I ran two 15.4's. I was shocked how the car took these mods. And I have also come to the conclusion that it probably was just a freak motor, it had 125,000 miles on it too. Which was on 225/15 tires.

Now to my second mx6 after my friend totalled my first one while I was in jail, friggin prick. Took it to the track stock and with no vris and a humongous leak in the exhaust behind the resonator. 16.4 consistently 4 times. I figured sweet good times no having vris. So I still haven't fixed the vris, but I installed a borla cat-back and a testpipe and kinda a jimmy rig cold air intake. As well as a 65mm throttle body which ruinned my weapon-R filter, sucked the crap out of it. I went to the track hoping for high 15's and I got a 16.6 and 16.7. I was probably the most pissed off person at the track. And on one run it popped out of first gear on the launch, which turned into a 4.5 60ft. talk about embarrasing. I almost got in a fight with one prick that said I stalled. Which I didn't. This was on 205/15 tires which I think messed up my launces anyways, i need something wider.

I just don't get why I would be slower. Any of you guys have any insight on what might be wrong? I was thinking maybe I need to tighten the throttle linkage to the throttle body. Maybe I'm not at wide open throttle.

Please help me out, THANKS!
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
I just performed and Diagnostic test on it and I got code 41 which is the vris, and I expected that. But I am also getting code 16, which deals with the e.g.r. system which I have no clue why that would come up.
 

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import_killer said:
This is my second mx6 and I like to think I know the cars pretty well. But what happened on friday really embarrassed me.

With my first mx6 93 mtx. It ran like a 16.2 stock, I figured nice platform to start off with. I installed a cold air intake, testpipe, short-shift and custom 2.5" exhaust. To my amazement I hit a 15.4 and a 15.6 which I missed second a little bit so I like to think I ran two 15.4's. I was shocked how the car took these mods. And I have also come to the conclusion that it probably was just a freak motor, it had 125,000 miles on it too. Which was on 225/15 tires.

Now to my second mx6 after my friend totalled my first one while I was in jail, friggin prick. Took it to the track stock and with no vris and a humongous leak in the exhaust behind the resonator. 16.4 consistently 4 times. I figured sweet good times no having vris. So I still haven't fixed the vris, but I installed a borla cat-back and a testpipe and kinda a jimmy rig cold air intake. As well as a 65mm throttle body which ruinned my weapon-R filter, sucked the crap out of it. I went to the track hoping for high 15's and I got a 16.6 and 16.7. I was probably the most pissed off person at the track. And on one run it popped out of first gear on the launch, which turned into a 4.5 60ft. talk about embarrasing. I almost got in a fight with one prick that said I stalled. Which I didn't. This was on 205/15 tires which I think messed up my launces anyways, i need something wider.

I just don't get why I would be slower. Any of you guys have any insight on what might be wrong? I was thinking maybe I need to tighten the throttle linkage to the throttle body. Maybe I'm not at wide open throttle.

Please help me out, THANKS!
if yout hink your throttle body isn't functioning properly, just take off your intake and check it out. you can keep the car running w/out the vaf on there if you keep giving it gas. have a friend put the petal to the metal and see if it opens all the way.

as for it popping out of gear... i always have that problem with mine at the track. dont know why it does it there and not on the street? i guess it has something to do with the added traction but i just hold that thing in there as hard as i can and it wont pop out.

as for the times... what is your 60 foot when it didn't pop out of gear? whats your trap speed, and all the rest of the junk? maybe we can diagnose the problem. does the car FEEL slow to you? like... were these times a big surprise? or what...
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Here's the two best out of five.

Reaction: 1.037 Fell asleep trying to find the right launch rpm.

I1: 2.673
I2: 7.083
I3: 10.798 MPH: 66.164
I4: 13.914

E.T: 16.707

MPH: 83.069

Reaction: .782

I1: 2.622
I2: 7.145
I3: 10.863 MPH:66.295
I4: 13.972

E.T: 16.773

MPH: 82.857

I wish I would have kept the runs when I was stock but I can't find them now. I know with my first car with the 15.4 runs I was pulling 2.2's 60 fts. But My vris was working and i had 225 tires.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I also switched to a 5w 30 oil which I have never run before, somebody just said I should try it, so I don't know if that is the culprate either.
 

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do you have a new motor? if not you should not be running 5w30 its way too thin. put in some 10w30 synthetic if you care about your car. if not, reg 10w30 will suffice, but nothing lighter than that
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
trust me that's the first thing I did on saturday was take that crap out. In fact friends were telling me they were seeing white smoke come out of my car so I let one of them drive it and stayed behind and sure enough it did. It only seemed to do it when you let off the gas and pushed in the clutch but none the less it did it. No it's not a new motor it only 90k on it. but the thing seems to pull pretty good. I guess track conditions really hurt it. But I was really dissappointed to put on 3 parts that are suppose to help and I lost 3 10's doesn't make any sense. I re=did my throttle cable even though it seemed to be at wot. I guess I just need to get those vacuum chambers installed.
 

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import_killer said:
Took it to the track stock and with no vris
What do you mean by no VRIS? I know our cars have VRIS, and from what I understand and feel while I drive the car is it feels like VTEC when you hit 4400RPM.

So how can it not work? Mine feels better on some nights compared to others.

Explain what you mean by that please.

Juggalo
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
When I replaced my valve cover gaskets I pulled the intake manifold off and snapped one of the vaccuum chambers. The solenoids work off vaccum unlike vtec. That's what I mean no vris. I just mean it's not working right now. I'm going to fix that tomorrow. I got new vaccum chambers and it's ready to roll.
 

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import_killer said:
So I still haven't fixed the vris, but I installed a borla cat-back and a testpipe and kinda a jimmy rig cold air intake. As well as a 65mm throttle body which ruinned my weapon-R filter, sucked the crap out of it. I went to the track hoping for high 15's and I got a 16.6 and 16.7. I was probably the most pissed off person at the track.
Try resetting the ECU, with the "new" mods, the ECU may need to re-learn.

It wont hurt to try!
 

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Your VRIS system won't effect your times that much at all, maybe a tenth or so if they aren't working properly. Just tie them open if you think they aren't funtioning correct.

You may be pulling code 16 because of a vacuum leak. That is usualy why that code goes off. That could be why your VRIS system isn't working either.

Check all your hoses, etc.

Also your 60 foot times are pretty bad. Get those back down to a 2.2 or 2.1 and you should be around a low low 16, high 15. If you are running on 17's, that will also slow down your times a lot!! Put your stockers back on there and run w/ them instead.
 

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mxmissle9 said:
do you have a new motor? if not you should not be running 5w30 its way too thin. put in some 10w30 synthetic if you care about your car. if not, reg 10w30 will suffice, but nothing lighter than that
I use Royal Purple 5w - 30 synthetic and my car has 116k on it :shrug:
 

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thats fine and dandy. it's just not the best choice to run such a light oil on older motors. are you going to tell me i'm wrong? or were you just stating that is what you use and you've not thrown a rod, ect... yet
 

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mxmissle9 said:
thats fine and dandy. it's just not the best choice to run such a light oil on older motors. are you going to tell me i'm wrong? or were you just stating that is what you use and you've not thrown a rod, ect... yet
No I wasn't saying you are wrong at all!! I think as long as you have a healthy motor, it isn't going to hurt anything. And it keeps your HLA's from tapping so much haha.

But in his case, he should prob run 10w - 30. I change my oil every 1500 - 2000 miles since I race so much.
 

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do you notice that the oil is pretty discolored after only 2000 miles? when i changed my oil a couple weeks ago it had been close to 6000 since i'd changed it, but supposedly you're able to go that long using synthetic. i think never again will i go so long, because it was almost black.
 

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mxmissle9 said:
do you notice that the oil is pretty discolored after only 2000 miles? when i changed my oil a couple weeks ago it had been close to 6000 since i'd changed it, but supposedly you're able to go that long using synthetic. i think never again will i go so long, because it was almost black.

I only notice a little discoloration in the oil. I just like to keep fresh oil in my car since Im at the track at least once or twice a week :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I noticed mine was pretty black after 3500 miles. I think it just had castrol GTX 10w30. I'm gonna change the oil and maybe if I get around to it fix the vris. I understand that the vris doesn't make that much of a difference in my time but it would take some stress off knowing it is working properly. Could there be something wrong with my top end that I might be able to figure out. I hit fourth gear pretty good at the end. With my first one I almost wanted to wring out third cause it was so damn close.
 

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Re: Re: track problems

Juggalo said:
I know our cars have VRIS, and from what I understand and feel while I drive the car is it feels like VTEC when you hit 4400RPM.
Juggalo
Juggalo if you can feel VRIS #2 open at 4400rpm by a seat of the pants method, then your VRIS #1 solenoid is probably no longer working. You can take an Ohm Meter and measure the resistance across the two solenoids with it unplugged to see what the resistance is. If it s a high resistance (Mega-Ohms not ohms) then it is bad and needs replacing. They both have the DSM symbol on them FYI.

The one on the left is solendoid #1 and is black if memory serves correct. It goes to the back of the motor near the firewall. you will see the arm that retracts there.



Import Killer:

I'd get the VRIS system working, and see if you are running lean due to a larger TB. You might not be getting good power anymore. Check to see if your Fuel Injectors are good... you can do this by unplugging the spark plugs and fuel injectors, taking out one fuel injector at a time, plug it in, and crank the motor. Make sure it sprays and does not leak or is clogged. Also, check your Spark Plugs to see if they are fouled b/c of the white smoke. If they are, replace them.

Once these things are done, it is easier to speculate about something else.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
That's the first thing I thought when my buddy drove my car and I saw white smoke. I just can't believe after just a throttle body and cold air intake could make the car run lean. How will I know if my fuel filter is clogged or something like that?
 
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