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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
im thinking about getting a tranny for my mx6 from mazda recycling out in cali. is it hard to replace the tranny? anyone ever done it? let me know
 

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Tough question to answer without knowing what your skill set and tool supply is. Breaking the axle nuts loose takes a long bar and real care. Read the book and it is not hard compared to most American cars I have wrenched on. I swapped engines and trans on our mx6 over a weekend. I had more trouble sourcing new exhaust gaskets than doing the work.
What kind of trans are you looking for. I have an MTX setup for sale in Ohio which would be much less shipping than California.

Kory
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
well think of this way.... if i need it i most likely have it, my dad was a master tech and my brother and my friend ken are mechanics. im looking for a i4 mtx tranny....can u beat 400 shipped? and how many miles are on it?
 

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Chaos311Clarity said:
well think of this way.... if i need it i most likely have it, my dad was a master tech and my brother and my friend ken are mechanics.
Then it should be fairly easy for you. I think you can probably do it in a day with help. The trans is removed from the bottom and it doesnt weigh too much. As I said, the hardest part will most likely be breaking the axle nuts loose. Also the sway bar links are a pain, I cut the nuts off with a chisel. Be sure to get a clutch kit while you are in there.

im looking for a i4 mtx tranny....can u beat 400 shipped? and how many miles are on it?

Mine is a v6 unit. I am asking $400 plus shipping for the whole conversion kit. Trans, axles, flywheel ,etc...

Kory
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
that doesn't bolt right up to a 4 banger correct?
 

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i just replaced my transmission, axels, clutch, flywheel, and distributor all in one go :( but lucky i had a good mechanic to do it all for a low price of just under 1 thousand including parts, basically to replace your transmission here are the steps

before you start take the terminals off the battery, and take out the starter located on top of the transmission.

1) take off your tires
2) take off the main bolt that is in the middle of your rotor ( you may need to bend the cutter pin, the wire thats holding the bolt)
3) slide the rotor off the axels
4) repeat this for other side
5) take off the axel on the drivers side FIRST!
6) slide the axels it should come out easily, if not use a brace
7) take off the other side of the axel, there is 2 bolts supporting it you should see them just above the center of the second axel
8) slide the other axel out
9) get under the transmission look around and see the main bolts supporting it, there are about 6-7 bolts around the transmission, youll recogonize them from the rest.
10) take a coffee break
11) once youve removed the main bolts you should see some transmission fluid leak out, thats totally normal, just grab a jack and slide it under the transmission if the jack doesnt seem to grab it right, get a 2/4 peice of wood to brace it, its hard to grab it with one person.
12) take the trasmission out
13) take the pressure plate/clutch/flywheel, check the flywheel to see if it needs to be machined, you can tell if the plate looks worn and doesnt slide as it should when its in the transmission.
14) remember how you took the pressure plate/clutch/flywheel off and put it into the used tranny you picked up from the auto wrecker ;)
15) repeat steps above

hope this helps
 

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mazdamx6speed said:
i just replaced my transmission, axels, clutch, flywheel, and distributor all in one go :( but lucky i had a good mechanic to do it all for a low price of just under 1 thousand including parts, basically to replace your transmission here are the steps

before you start take the terminals off the battery, and take out the starter located on top of the transmission.

1) take off your tires
2) take off the main bolt that is in the middle of your rotor ( you may need to bend the cutter pin, the wire thats holding the bolt)
itll be a stake nut, not a castle nut. youll need a hammer and screwdriver to unstake it. a 32mm socket with a breaker bar to finish it off.

3) slide the rotor off the axels
you wont be able to do thisunless you unbolt the knuckle from the strut. youre supposed to split the ball joint but if you just unclip the brake line you can usually swivel the knuckle away still attached and have enough room to get the axle out.


4) repeat this for other side
5) take off the axel on the drivers side FIRST!
this really doesnt matter. the passenger side will be easier. on the passenger side you will have to pull out 3 bolts where intermediate shaft bearing bolts to the block.


6) slide the axels it should come out easily, if not use a brace
the passenger side will come out of the tranny easily. the driver side has a c clip that can be a pain in the ass sometimes.


7) take off the other side of the axel, there is 2 bolts supporting it you should see them just above the center of the second axel
there are 3 bolts... they go into the block. 14mm... once you get them out and the outer end is free, you can pull the axle out easily.

8) slide the other axel out
9) get under the transmission look around and see the main bolts supporting it, there are about 6-7 bolts around the transmission, youll recogonize them from the rest.
10) take a coffee break
11) once youve removed the main bolts you should see some transmission fluid leak out, thats totally normal, just grab a jack and slide it under the transmission if the jack doesnt seem to grab it right, get a 2/4 peice of wood to brace it, its hard to grab it with one person.
12) take the trasmission out
13) take the pressure plate/clutch/flywheel, check the flywheel to see if it needs to be machined, you can tell if the plate looks worn and doesnt slide as it should when its in the transmission.
14) remember how you took the pressure plate/clutch/flywheel off and put it into the used tranny you picked up from the auto wrecker ;)
15) repeat steps above

hope this helps
since the above didnt really explain a bunch of things, like umm... how to get the tranny out while the 4 mounst are still attached to it:rolleyes: , ill go into a little more detail.


pull out the airbox, if you havent already as well as the cruise control modulator. you may even consider the battery.

pull out all the bolts from the tranny except the top two. if you havent pulled out the starter already, do so now. disconnect the reverse switch, speed sensor and neutral switch. support the engine.pull off the cross brace underneath. three bolts on each side. undo the shift linkages and if you havent already, pull the clutch slave off and unclip it from the tranny. secure it out of the way. undo the mount near the battery. put the jack under the front/rear crossbeam and tranny, sorta where the drain plug is. unbolt the bolts at the front and rear of that brace and drop the tranny and crossbrace as a unit. if youre using something adjustable like a jack to support the engine, you can lower the assembly as a whole and then separate after pulling the two remaining bolts out. this will also make it easier for the new unit to go in.

im not too sure what hes talking about when he says "remember how you pulled the clutch flywheel off and install them into the new tranny" the clutch and flywheel stay with the engine, you shouldnt have to touch them.


when you get the new tranny inspect the t/o fork and boot for wear and damage. clean the splines on the input shaft and apply a light coat of oil to the splines as well as where the t/o bearing rides. a new bearing is like $30 if you decide you wanna replace yours.

youll need to replace the output shaft seals and axle nuts.


anyone can add to anything i missed of if you have any questions...:tup:
 
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