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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
hey guys..im just curious about this:

if and when my auto transmission dies (nothing wrong with it now) ... is it easy to remove the auto transy and put manual in it?

also...im just curious on how i know/sings if my transy is slipping??
(maybe im just looking for reasons to change to MTX but what the hey hehe)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
well ironically...i was driving to uni and back today...on the way there my car was fine...but in the last 10min of my way back from uni...my car started doing something weird...which seems to only happen when its totally warm..

the car seems to jolt back and forward (i.e. the revs go SLIGHTLY higher and slightly lower in gears 1 and 2..seems to be fine in 3 and 4)

and when it is idle and i want to move again...it feels like it is going to stall because it is idleing about 700revs

it is shifting in the correct time and position and smoothly...
keep in mind i just changed my ATX fluid which was quite bad(brown)

and i reset my ECU..

whats the problem???
 

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It's so hard to tell with out seeing or feeling the car.

As for the conversion, I recomend you fidn a MTX first before you consider it. It will cost up to and more then a stock rebuild of the ATX.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
oh ok...but im not thinking of any rebuild now...

i heard on a subaru site that every time the ECU is reset, the car will run in safe mode anr un rich and will hesitate...that is what i am experiencing now(i.e. the car hesitates off the start ..like it shakes a bit almost like a manual car would off the start)

and it hesitates when i accelerate (most noticeable driving up hills)..it almost feels like the car drops down a gear(but it actually stays in the same gear)...but the revs are still the same...so at the moment im at the conclusion that the ECU is still trying to recalibrate....

any info guys?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
i just re-reset the ECU and still same problem except now it doesnt hesitate off the start(only under acceleration)...it is very noticeable up hills(i.e. it hesitates every couple seconds...so much so that it is finding it hard to get above 3000revs up hills)

is this my transmission? timing? ECU?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i just checked the new trnasmission fluid while the car was on..it is a good pinky red colour...but actually smells burnt....????

is it possible the mechanic used fluid that was too thin???

where should the fluid be up to on the dipstick when the car is warm??

which type of transmission oil do all u other ATX guys use?
 

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Most auto fluid is the same weight 30Wt but is created differently
they take drexon 2 originally but either 2 or 3 or 4 will do fine.

The hesitation sounds more engine related then Auto related.
Is it when it's opne throttle or is it during shifts.
If it's hesatating and stutering shove some injector cleaner or get the injectors clean. I had an almost blocked injector on the wagon one cleand and it was fine.
It would hesitated when excelerating and starting off making shifts uneven.
Soem storng injecotr cleaner dose should show some improvement if tha'ts the case.
Nulon Concentrate works well. I have shoved a whole bottle into a Pintara that was buggered 2 days latter it was much smoother.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
it ONLY starts to happen when the car is totally warm(15min of driving)

Is it when it's opne throttle or is it during shifts.
shifting is fine...it is during open throttle

If it's hesatating and stutering shove some injector cleaner or get the injectors clean
i had my injectors professionally cleaned 2 months ago and they acrually found them to be totally clean..and i had my fuel filter replaced at the dsame time my ATX fluid was changed
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
comeon guys..u guys must know somethin..

anyway...i have some more info for someone to diagnose my problem....

the hesitating ONLY happens with open throttle(especially noticeable up hills)
AND
when i am driving DOWN a hill. then brake and want to accelerate again...the car hesitates off the start
AND
both these only happen when the car is totally warm..it is fine when it is cold or half warm.


anyone???
 

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Well it sounds like the auto. getting sme sort of mixed signal from TBS on the Throttle body goign ot the ATX ECU. But I thin kyour best option is to have a auto specialist look at. One that knows these boxes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 · (Edited)
but if it was the auto wouldnt it be happening when the car is cold aswell?? why only when the car is hot???

anyway im gonna let my ECU recalibrate for a week or so...cause this only started to happen 1 day after i reset it...not to mention after i re-reset it last night, the car stopped hesitating at the take-off
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
well guys i THINK i may have found the problem in the hesitation...

i let my car warm up for 5 min(idlieing) then i took it for a 5 min hard drive...it wasnt hesitating at all (probably cause it seems to only start hesitating when its totally warm which is about 15min driving)

anyway...when i came to reverse the car back up my driveway...there was a noticeable BUZZZ when i hit the throttle to reverse...on closer inspection..the sound was coming from the exhaust..right after the bend and the cat back...
which IF it is the exhaust..would also explain why it only hesitates when it is totally warm...

does this sound like a clogged catback or what guys?

anyone know anything about this?
 
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Hessitation like that wouldn't be because of a clogged CAT. If your cats clogging like mine was you will find a steady decline in power as the exhaust pressure and RPM rises, ie mine used to run out of breath at 6000, you could still push it beyond to 6500-6800 but wasn't really worth it.

New 2.5" cat and it spun to 7200 no problem in 1st and 2nd, this is on an ATX.

Sounds more like and electrical problem, under initial load you aren't getting enough spark. Could be a heat fracture in a plug. When it is cold fracture not aparent, when hot it is. The fact the it only just happen in a instant indicates some thing more than your ATX or exhaust causing it.

Your ATX will give you plenty of warning before going out to lunch, mine did. My ATX gave a vibration/ shudder under light load at around 1700rpm for 2 yrs before it died, under heavy load there was no problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
thx for the feedback tlgerdes ...

Sounds more like and electrical problem, under initial load you aren't getting enough spark. Could be a heat fracture in a plug. When it is cold fracture not aparent, when hot it is.
i also took a look at my plugs today...2 of them looked average...the other 2 looked weird...i.e. right before the gap(on the little white part which is only a few mm's in length)..it was discoloured, like grey and purple... and the electrode itself was blackish grey

whats this sound like to u?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
ok guys i just put the new plugs in...and the car was totally warm...and guess what...the problem is completely fixed...

not only that, i have at least 20kw more power....

it seems like 1 plug was not firing at all and maybe 1 other was only firing sometimes which explains the hesitation when the car is warm

which also explains why my brothers 100kw subaru kept up with me hehehe
 

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Himm electrics
 
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