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Trying to install new brake lines(SS), leaking from the brake line bolt. WTF!

5974 Views 13 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  PaulG
OK, on the passenger side front, I have removed the line from the hardline and put in a new SS line. Now it constantly leaks from there, even with the old stock line. Do I need some type of sealant(teflon). The hardline and bolt/nut aren't leaking and seem to be ok. The bolt is not not stripped or anything. Could it be my line? The driver side does not leak.
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cant you see where its leaking from? idk what 'hardline' is.

i would say use some teflon/whatever you use for brakes. If you said both lines leak, then i would say its gotta be something that, well, isnt the line.
Sorry, for not being to clear. Don't know how to describe it. The line is not leaking or anything. It is leaking at the actual joint/connecting of the SS line/flex line and the hardline that penetrates through the strut tower. The leaking is "overflowing" the top of the connecting bolt and some of the threads it appears. I am just curious if anyone had run into this problem or if I actually need to put a sealant on the connection. Like I say as of now the other line is not leaking.

I just am wondering if there is safe/effective sealant. Bought some teflon tape, tried to put some on, but failed due to needing to be somewhere and could not put the effort in yet.
I would go after some hydraulic thread sealant, and also, the threads could be cross threaded.
isnt it a compression fitting?(been awhile since i have done any brake lines) if it is you shouldnt need anything to seal it look at the two parts that mate and see if one of them is scratched or something, other than that just make sure its tight and it should be good, if it still doesnt do it try putting the old one back on if you do and it doesnt leak you have a bad stainless line
I already tried the stock line, but will try another SS line that has been fitted to a car previously. I will double check to find some hydraulic thread sealer at some stores. Damn this is aggravating.
The copper washers should be replaced whenever you remove the brake line for any reason. I have a small leak because I reused my copper washers, but hopefully tomorrow I'll be replacing the washers and I'll let you know if it stops the leak.
The copper washers should be replaced whene'er you remove the brake line for any reason. I have a small leak because I reused my copper washers, but hopefully tomorrow I'll be replacing the washers and I'll let you know if it stops the leak.

When I changed my lines, i learned the hard way NOT to reuse ANY part from the previous setup. And if you install it wrong, you should use a new connector and ideally re-flair the line
It looks like I have a bad caliper that's now leaking fluid all over the place...the master cylinder ran dry overnight and now I have to bench bleed that bastard...we'll see how it goes!
Hey guys, here are some pics to further illustrate my dilema:

So it turns out that Porterfield built my lines with the wrong fitting, it is too deep and/or possibly the inlet hole to large/not the right angle flare(wtf). So I just ordered some tried and true Goodrich lines that should fit no problem. I have a couple used Goodrich lines and the hardline adapter looks identical to the stock one(as you can see in the pic), seems like a good quality part. Fuck Porterfield lines and XRP fittings.

Paul, I think you are refering to the banjo bolt fitting that goes onto the caliper, I know they need new washers. Sucks about your caliper. Keep us updated man, I am curious as to how and why your system majorily shit the bed. My master cylindar may have ran dry as well, hoping not though as there was still a minute amount of fluid on the very bottom. I do not want to rip it out just to bench bleed this ****** cylinder.

SauerKrat, do you think I really should re-flair the lines? Do you have any experience in doing so? I bought a re -flare tool, but have read that it takes a level of skill/experience to do a correct flare. I do not want to fuck up the OEM hardlines. No place to buy pre-bent lines. Besides I am sure it is a major pain to remove, make, and then install brake hardlines. Hopefully the flares are fine when I get my new lines in.

I am so pissed that these shitty lines are holding me back from completing my car and may possibily have damaged my hardline flares.
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Sorry, I didn't realize it was the other end of the line that's leaking.

I replaced my caliper today, it looks like it was leaking around where the parking brake hinge was a pretty big leak for sure. I bench bled the master cylinder, it was much easier than I thought it would of the easier jobs to do on an mx6. I bled all four corners, went for a test drive, and once the rust was gone from the rotors, it braked quite nicely. I just have to bleed the clutch tomorrow again and I should be laughing.
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It's your call if you want to re-flair the line(make it a double flair). You live out in Cali, so I'm sure yours arent too bad, but mine were crap after all these years. It's not hard at all, just be SURE the end you are flairing was cut off clean, and doesnt have rust on it, with a small pipe cutter. THe problem is the fittings are very delicate, make sure you dont over tighten anything that has a flare on it. You just snug up the bolt, and thats it(you can tighten a little more if it leaks a little). Overtightening can and most likely will screw up the connection. <-Believe me, I learned this the hard way.

My rear brakelines were rusting through, so I replaced both of them. I had never done it before, and it took me the better part of a sunday afternoon. In the end it cost me around $60 for 25 feet of coiled brakeline, and the fittings. I found it was easiest for me to install the first end into the slave cylinder, then bend it around to the back through the origional line "holders"
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Paul, so it was a rear caliper that was leaking. I just got a rebuild kit for one of my rears cause one of them has become frozen. The kit only consists of 3 seals. Hopefully it isn't too hard to rebuild. I have read that the problem with frozen calipers is that the e-brake pin or something like that get's corrided or needs to be lubed. We will see. Good that it wasn't too hard for you to get your brakes fixed. Also, do you know if when your are to bleed the brakes lines if you are supposed to bleed the clutch line since both systems are tied together. I bleed my brakes like a year ago and never bleed my clutch line, but soon after(the next day after a track day), my brakes got spongy. I think it was because I didn't bleed the clutch line.

Sauer, my lines are pretty good, no rust or anything. I will see if they are ok with the Goodrich lines. I did kind of use a little muscle on one of the lines to see if that was the problem, but now I realize that the flare never even really sealed against the fitting cup(which is the cause of the leak) so my flares should be good. You are able to wobble and move the fitting when it is attached to the hardline, indicating a massive amount of play. I think the reason it got harder to tighten is because of the deepness of the fitting(the stock ones are pretty shallow) and the corrision on the line nut.

Thanks for your input fellas.
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The clutch only has to be bled if the clutch master cylinder runs dry. Since you're removing your caliper, as long as the brake master cylinder doesn't run dry, you only have to bleed the brake line for the caliper that you remove. I'm guessing you already bled the other wheels when you put your new lines on.
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