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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have an 88 mx6 Lx automatic Is it possible to add a turbo to it, or are the compressions different? Also if it is possible can you use the turbo from a probe gt?
 
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yes, the dish in turbo pistons are bigger.
The non turbo has 8.6/1 and the turbo has 7.8/1.
but stock pistons are cheep.
Im going to put one on my 88 this summer.
 

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Yeah, but, there's a lot more to it than just that. The turbo engine has stronger rods, hypereutectic pistons, a different ECU, a different tranny, etc. But, the probe engine was the exact same, so, if you find one, it'll work.
 

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the automatic trannys are the same on the turbo and n/a. Last time I checked the connecting rods, crankshaft, rod and main bearings are the same. I checked with an autoparts store.

The y-pipe is different for the manifold. Make sure you pick one up. Small details are very important for the turbo itself; the oil cooler (oil filter screws onto it, not on n/a cars) and engine coolant (how it gets to it). You may need a radiator from the turbo car as well.

As long as your transaxle doesn't seem to give you trouble you should be ok. Make sure to make the proper adjustments with ignition timing (turbo car's ignition is computer controlled, n/a uses vacuum), don't use the turbo's 9BTDC you'll detonate, try TDC first.

[Edited by hurddawg on 05-10-2001 at 09:54 PM]
 

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Many of the engine's internals certainly are different. The pistons are hyperutectic, not cast, (sp?) and are dished for lower compression ration. The con-rods and I believe the crank are also forged. The ring lands are chrome-moly as well. The turbo engine is built like a brick shithouse so it can last as long as a N/A motor can and put up with lots of boost at the same time.

The radiator is the same. However, the ATX cooler on the n/a cars would get in the way of the intercooler so I dont know how it's set up on a proper turbo ATX. Some vacuum operated devices like your cruise control wont function properly. Also you have a few other vacuum hoses to route (like the bypass valve for example). The exhaust system before the cat is totally different. The ignition and engine electronics system is TOTALLY different, however many of the sensors themselves are the same (like the VAF). I know there's more differences but they're not coming to me right now. After owning both a N/A and a turbo model, I can tell you that it's not a simple swap. I'm not saying it cant be done, because it has been done, but you cant just toss the turbo onto your N/A setup and expect it to function properly (or last very long).
 

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Why wouldn't the Cruise work?

<rant to autostore>
This is the thing that gets me. If in fact the con-rods and crank are different, why do stores sell turbo car parts as n/a car parts (part number are the same)? If the turbo's are infact forged, why would I have to pay extra for the forging (remanufacturering) if I rebuild my n/a engine? </rant to autostore>

BTW the engine electrical isn't TOTALLY different, injectors, water temp, water switch, VAF, fan switch are the same :)

More differences:

1) knock sensor* (safer to have it, need engine harness and ECU though)
2) EGR position sensor
3) 3-way bypass valve
4) Throttle body (vacuum hoses)
5) head gasket *
6) camshaft angle sensor
7) ignitor, ignition coil, cap & rotor
8) BOV *
9) 5-spd tranny
10) Catalytic converter (N/A mazda part#: F2Y3-20-600, turbo: F223-20-600A)
11) Oxygen sensor (n/a: F8G8-18-861, turbo: F287-18-861)
12) dipstick (n/a: F220-10-450A, turbo: F220-10-450D)
13) Exhaust valve (n/a: F210-12-121A, turbo: F210-12-121B) *
14) Exhaust spring (n/a: F210-12-125, turbo: F210-12-125A) *
15) Flywheel & clutch (MTX only)
16) Half-shafts *
17) CV? *
18) miscellaneous tubing *

probably more but I am too tired of looking up part numbers. However like anarchy said it isn't a simple swap. The tubing routing (for intake) is going to be a headache. * indicates you most likely need if you want the car to last. These are only drivetrain components.

This is the way I see it with installing a turbo on a n/a. Although the engine will definitely die before it's time, it should work if you know what are you doing (without installing all of the extra junk found on the GTs. Alot of the 'junk' is for emissions). Being the fact that most of the n/a engines exceed 100k miles, don't expect too much.

Ex: Civics, greddy and so forth make basic turbo kits for these cars. Those cars aren't made to withstand extra boost either (be it 4~6psi). I don't know the exact details of the kits so I can't say too much and the fact most civics that use the kits are newer than our 1st gens.

[Edited by hurddawg on 05-12-2001 at 01:02 AM]
 

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hurddawg said:
Why wouldn't the Cruise work?


Beacuse on the N/A the cruise is vacuum actuated. When the cruise cont. would attempt to accelerate the car, it would be getting rid of the vacuum (due to boost), so basically it wouldnt work. The GT has an electric motor instead.
 

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turbo and n\a auto trans are different. As well as manuals.
 

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why not just drop a gt motor in a n/a?

i am sure you could get one at the junk yard and rebuild it? or just buy a new one, probably would save alot of hassle if you really want to keep your lx.
 

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The model numbers are the same (G4A-EL). What is different is the forward clutch (4 plates vs 3) L and R brake (5 plates vs 4) and servo diameter (78/36mm vs 78/40). The first number in each set is the turbo.

I stand corrected.

smachan -

because that's too easy :)...and expensive.
 

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Re: why not just drop a gt motor in a n/a?

smachan said:
i am sure you could get one at the junk yard and rebuild it? or just buy a new one, probably would save alot of hassle if you really want to keep your lx.
Lets ask again...why not just get a GT motor/trans or just trade your LX in for a GT and a couple more bucks...the couple more bucks that it would cost to do all that extra work...plus with a GT you get the adjustable suspension :D
 

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rmtaylor has a really good point there
 

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I can't speak for anyone else, but I'm basically an anti-power windows/door locks/mirrors/everything else Nazi. I'd rather swap in a GT powertrain concurrently with some big suspension upgrades :) Plus, a DX with the GT powertrain would be lighter than a GT (no power goodies, no sunfoor, etc.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
thanx for all the posts. Your right about just buying a gt, but they are hard to come by here. Ill keep looking though
 

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Apollo-Soyuz 1975 said:
I can't speak for anyone else, but I'm basically an anti-power windows/door locks/mirrors/everything else Nazi. I'd rather swap in a GT powertrain concurrently with some big suspension upgrades :) Plus, a DX with the GT powertrain would be lighter than a GT (no power goodies, no sunfoor, etc.)
No matter how you cut it, it would still be pearls on swine... :)
 

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does save about 200lbs though
 

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Plus it'd make for a hell of a sleeper, with no badges and all. And sinze I'd be staying with a genuine MX-6 powertrain, there car would still be pretty serviceable ;)
 

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crankshaft and connecting rods are the same!! I checked with my local mazda dealer today.

However I was wrong in stating that the fuel injectors are the same. The injectors are in fact larger displacement.
 
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