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Does anyone know where to find a quality turbo rebuild kit for a VJ11? Old posts from 2005 say TurboCity but a quick search shows they've been closed for a while. eBay shows some for for different rbh5 models but no vj11. Also is it worth it to rebuild rather than try to go a different route after blowing up my old turbo (junkyard or eBay turbo?)
 

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Does anyone know where to find a quality turbo rebuild kit for a VJ11? Old posts from 2005 say TurboCity but a quick search shows they've been closed for a while. eBay shows some for for different rbh5 models but no vj11. Also is it worth it to rebuild rather than try to go a different route after blowing up my old turbo (junkyard or eBay turbo?)
I have good vj11 turbo's for sale 125$ + shipping.

But the best thing to do is find a 88-89 Saab 9000 turbo at a junk yard, make sure it has an air research/garette T3 turbo, 48 A/R, 45trim.
Get the turbo, wastegate, o2 housing and downpipe. The downpipe is 360degrees clockable, buy an ebay t3 manifold or have a T3 flange welded to your manifold, use 1/4"npt barbed fitting for the turbo coolant hoses, adapt the oil lines to fit....

The 45trim t3 will last longer, make a better powerband, save the differential in the transmission, flow cooler air, make more power per PSI, run 15psi all the time on stock fuel system and a chip, can handle up to 27psi on these engines.
 

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Ok I'll start hunting for a Saab. Would I want to invest in a wideband just to make sure the engine isn't leaning out or is it ok to run 15lbs without monitoring a/f? Only mods are 2.5" cat back and cai. I'll be putting in a probinator chip before the new turbo.
 

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A wideband is always good.

I run only 94 octane fuel.

For over two years my 88GT 626 ran with a damaged wideband sensor on the factory fuel system, it would give idle and slow cruise readings but read atmosphere under any kind of load, innovate motorsports though it's an exhaust leak causing the bad reading, I tried a new controller, no change, changed gaskets and blots but there was no leak and no reading change... For those two years on a t3 45trim I ran 15 to 17psi in every kind of weather, when I finally got the wideband working and put a P&P head and 60trim T3 on the car the pistons looked as good as the day they went in the car.

The tiny IHI makes hot air at high boost, the F2T is factory mapped pig rich, a lot of fuel is used to cool charge air, The 45 trim T3 makes less heat than the IHI at the same boost and doesn't need all that extra fuel to cool 15psi boost.
 
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