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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i wanna know how many of u guys have gotten rid of ur factory turbo's and upgraded.
And if so what turbo do you have and how much $$$ u paid???

Cheers.
 

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I had a 440hp Garrett GT28 on mine for a couple years. Turbo cost me $2400 and installation cost me $300 + an external wastegate I had laying around.

Went pretty well considering the absolutely **** tune it was running with.
 

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vf22 paid $800 for it (second hand), install was a **** load and still isnt right, need to sort out my internal wastegate as its opening at random pressures most of the time :( well at least that was 4 months ago, havent driven it since im waiting on the smash repairers to sort out my ride :mad:
 

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i got a turbo from a 96 nissan rb26dett.. some people say its a t28/t3, i just go with t28 as its easier to say!

cost me 900 including external wastegate, 2.5" brand new cooler pipes all round, and everything else i needed to install the bugger..

i bought the setup from a fellow mx6.com member, and he took my stock setup along with the 900 bucks.. we did the swap ourselves, took us around 13 hours.. and wasnt it fun! :rolleyes: .. nah it was a good learning experience.

some places wanted up to 800 to do the swap!
 

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I got a vf22 bb paid 1800 brand new then u got custom exhaust manifold ,cooler pipes, water and oil lines ,dump pipe ....etc.
 

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so what sort of external wastegates did you guys use and how much did they set you back.

I dont expect any type of performance increase since i've heard integrals are usually fine for low hp applications (sub 350hp :rolleyes:) and dont cause any type of restriction but if the issues cant be resolved i may be forced to go that way....
 

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Well let me tell you the main difference between internal and external on anything below 500HP turbo is Boost control

Internal wastegates need more constant monitoring reason with electronic computer controlled boost control they work well. But with bleed valave you get spiking and reluctant holding of boost.

External with or with out boost control it will hold it with minimal difference in the rev range.
 

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yeah, i dont think you 'need' to go down the external pathway unless you are pumping out something rediculous like 20+ psi..

personally, im not sure why i have an external.. it came with the turbo so yeah... it sounds cool though!.. and because its venting into the atmosphere, doesnt it give the same result as having a slightly larger exhaust (in the top end)?..
 

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well yeah certainly makes sense, im no expert but i imagine the wastegate gas combining with the exhaust gas creates turbulance increasing backpressure resulting in more restriction so i can see how it might effectively free up some room for the exhaust gas, something i probably need to do since my dump pipe is so tight.

so you have no idea what type of external wastegate it is then xskape?

Also i take it having a external wastegate will be illegal since its ventin to the atmosphere in the engine bay.... so i suppose you need to get an engineer's cert?
 

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External gates don't HAVE to vent to atmosphere....

You can plumb it in to the exhaust just like an internal gate.

I'd be looking at your boost control MX68U, what are you using?
 

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well im getting my car back this arvo so how its behaving after the smash repairers have trashed it im not sure.. but before the accident my boost would fluctuate from 12psi to an unsafe 15 :(

so i shut the valve completely off which didnt change a thing. So thinking it must be a leak with the BC setup i pulled the thing off and just placed a normal hose so that the factory spring tension in the wastegate will dictate the boost level. Unfortunately even with theBC completely off the boost is still fluctuating.

Also some times the car wont boost till very high in the rev range indicating that the wastegate is sticking open causing the turbo to boost only when the wastegate passage is restrictive enough to force air thru the turbine...

Now with the turbo install they had to move the wastegate around the turbo to fit it which forced some modification to the actuator rod so it would connected properly. Now on inspection it looks like the rod is pushed up right against the side of the hole in the wastegate, so its actually coming out at an angle if that makes sense. So either its that wat is causing the sticking or the wastegate is screwed... i did try bending the rod slightly to reduce any obstruction but have had very little result... i will be tryin again tomorrow when the car is finally again in my posession...

so yeah if i cant sort it out ill take it somewhere like SAS to get them to have a look at the setup, if not maybe an external is my only option...
 

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oh, my gate is a hks.. not sure of the model though.

the 'screamer pipe' (where the exhaust gas flows out of) goes down to meet the dump pipe, but falls short (about 7 or 10 cm), so if i ever had to pumb it back, it wouldnt be too hard.

bit of a change of topic, but i really wanna have a go at driving around with my bonnet off for a bit, see if i get flamage from the screamer pipe!.. might be something for me to do on a boring sunday
 

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I have recently got my car back but i have on it now a 450+ HP custom built Garrett its a small frame with large frame internals and a large frame exaust housing( for people that dont know garrett only have two different physical sizes small frame and large frame large is usually for 450 HP and above and large frames do not have internal gates) so basically it is the physical size of say a T28 but with the power of T31- 40

it is controlled by an electronic boost controller which is controlled by my Haltech. but i am only running 7.5 PSI because i want to get a bigger cooler before i go higher.
:cool:
 

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a little bit off the topic, but -

i think the stock cooler does alrite (for me anyway)

having mild steel pipes, i can really feel the difference in temperature on the hot/cold sides..

after going for a run, the pipe from the turbo to cooler is hot to touch, but from cooler to TB is actually quite cool.. (unless the weather is hot or ive been idling for a long time)
 

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the stock cooler is fine for low boost applications on the stock turbo (stock turbo being limited to 14 - 15psi). With a larger turbo setup you really need to go aftermarket, esp considering the massive pressure drop across the core which will zap quite a few ponies..
 

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Lucky for me i have no need to hide a cooler because i have that nice little option of UNLIMITED MODIFICATIONS under my insurance policy :D
 

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Me too as long as it is legal. :D
 
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