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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
hey everyone
im new here
im ross and i own an at n/a tx5

and i was recently thinking aout buying an mx6

then i thought

nah y buy a car that looks like its gunna be fast
wen i cud get a great engine and throw it into my car and tidy mine up


so i was wondering wat u guys thought of me importing a klze and dropping it into an AT tx5
 

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good luck with that, aint going to happen for anything remotly cheap with an AT sunshine
 

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Honestly, you're better off doing a turbo conversion Ross if you wanted to keep your car. Or just buy a different car :p
I dont think thats an option for Ross due to P-plate laws.

good luck with that, aint going to happen for anything remotly cheap with an AT sunshine
It almost bolts straight in with some mount swapping from other models, use turbo hubs and shafts, NA shift linkage bolts straight up. Only thing of issue is wiring the thing up. It wouldnt cost that much, if you were in Melbourne i would help you out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
ok i guess well continue this conversation tx5 :)

unless any mx6 owner has any faith or knowledge
 

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I dont think thats an option for Ross due to P-plate laws.



It almost bolts straight in with some mount swapping from other models, use turbo hubs and shafts, NA shift linkage bolts straight up. Only thing of issue is wiring the thing up. It wouldnt cost that much, if you were in Melbourne i would help you out.
im sorry but i would have to see a bit of proof on that lol. The gearbox mounts might be the same but thats about it. would still require ALOT of work.
 

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im sorry but i would have to see a bit of proof on that lol. The gearbox mounts might be the same but thats about it. would still require ALOT of work.
If you think it would require alot of work then you obviously have no idea how to do it. I have explained to Ross in detail how to do it on tx5 club website. You'd be surprised what engine you can cram into what chassis using factory mounts from different cars.
 

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Unless your Tx5 is immaculate and mechanically excellent, your probably better off getting an mx6 with a dead DE and drop a ZE in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
wats the point of swapping a new engine in the car if its mechanically a1? lol
engines fine
bodys fine

feel like putting in an engine with more power

cant do a turbo conversion and the cost of putting in an fe3 is pointless for the little power gains compared to putting in a v6
 

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the V6 is going to cost you alot more then a FE3.

got a question ross, how do you think you are going to do this?
and what steps are you going to take?

Would like to know, just so people can help you with what your doing if you are so keen.

not knocking you, but, its a hard road your about to undertake and not many people have done it.
 

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If you think it would require alot of work then you obviously have no idea how to do it. I have explained to Ross in detail how to do it on tx5 club website. You'd be surprised what engine you can cram into what chassis using factory mounts from different cars.
Look, Im all for cramming different engines into different chassis and all, but I think ur missing the point here. You are telling someone who has not done an engine swap before to change an entire engine that doesnt even bolt into anything original. Look, to the average person even thinking about a direct engine swap is a heck of a task. hey, ive done it, and im doing it again soon. It doesnt mean by any means that it was easy, or I enjoy it. We did a 4 cyl auto to v6 manual conversion. We even had a donar car and all. That was far from the easiest thing anyone has done. You can say everything bolts right up, and the wiring all lines up. But it doesnt mean its easy by a long shot. My advice is this. If you are good at mechanics and you truely are passionate about this conversion. Prepare yourself well. Give it 2 weeks at least to sort out the problems too.

We thought a straight engine swap would take a weekend, so much for that idea. Ended up taking 2 weeks because we were still waiting on parts and crap. Im sure its not as difficult as people imagine jesiotrot, and yes ive read the thread on the tx forums, but it is by no means easy. Also remember im sure many people out there are not as tallented as you are. Despite all this, if you do go ahead with it. My best of luck. And as said before, if you need help, just ask. Everyone will be willing to help in some way as much as they can. ;)
 

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When I do a conversion, I like to have an open deadline....which is why I have more than one car.

But like all projects the planning and preparation are the keys to this.

I would start researching on all the parts you need, make a list and start collecting the bits.

Get wiring diagrams for both cars, a preferably the front harness off the GE, as you'll need to splice them together.

The other things I like to do is go to a wrecker with cars in a yard (like pick and pay less) with a tape measure and a camera, and look at the differences in the mounts etc, so you can work out what to use.
Dont buy from them in dribs and drabs tho, work out what you need then go there on one day and get the lot.....they wont charge you anywhere near as much for a full wheel barrow as the parts one by one.

Then what I would do is a mock fitting, where you get the engine and gearbox you plan to fit, and sit in in the engine bay to make sure it fits and the mounts bolt up..then pull it back out again (its inevitable that something will have been missed) put you old engine back in, while you collect up the extra parts to make the swap.

this is where two cars and a big garage really helps.

You can just leave the car with the engine sitting in it, and collect the parts (or have them fabbed up) as you go.
 

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Suspension, body, steering, brakes etc all count for mechanically ok. Counts even more if you have put money into the suspension etc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
well heres my plan


im going to ahve to talk to a few engineers 1st to see if theyll sign off my work


if they will i get my dad and a few of his mates to come over and we give it a shot

if not

i pay someone to do it
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
can u seriously say a high compression fe3 can keep up with a klze

seriously

both bone stock

and then both heavily modified

in the same car
 

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that is for sure.

there is in stock form overall little difference between a FE DOHC and F2T - just that on the move the added torque of the turbo.

The only problem you have with both a FE DOHC and Kl-Ze conversion is down to weight.

One engine will create more useable power
the other will have lot more top end. But both with out some sort of torque filler will require a light body. EG - don't add weight to it.

But if you want a Kl-Ze drop it into a AX or GE.

making it fit a Gd/AT body is not easy.
the factory tried but then dropped the idea and kept the FE DOHC and then reworked the who chassis to take the KL-ZE.

But the biggest issue is the rear mount.
the rest are nothing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
finally someone else who knows wat they are talking about


was times would an AT with an FE3 run stock? and modified?

like 0-100 sort of figures
 

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finally someone else who knows wat they are talking about
<3 Rodhog :)
 

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well put it this way

my Wagon runs a Fe DOHC now and it's heavier then a stock N15 SSS

my wagon has not be tuned fully out. So my guess is compared to the SSS its only making approx 3-5 Kws at the wheels more then SSS is.

And the Wagon keeps Up with it. Even with gearing that slows it donw especially in 3rd gear. As the F2 box has such tall gearing it's the only real down fall.

Now When I had TimTx5's TX-5 the one thing I knew was it was crap load lighter then my Mx-6 and I'd say light then the Wagon with ease.
Especially in the rear end. Where similar modifications woudl allow some tail out Tx5 action - the Wagon just squats and holds on. In fact I never fitted the Tx5 with swaybar.

I think the figures are like - 8seconds for 100 and around 16 for the 1/4. Something along them lines.
Which are around the same as a SSS pulsar.
Which they only had a few KW's less but do have weight advantage over most of the mazda/ford range but fords are in general lighter.
but a base Telstar 2.0L AT is the lightest - 1005Kg wet weight sedan. that's 100KG less then a SSS and the Tx-5's most were only listed at 1200Kg.

SR20DE is also in some ways idential in it's desgin for a 2.0L - same bore and stroke. It just uses - a low compression to deal with lower octane fuel - REv's 500RPM higher. ANd also uses slightly different camshaft profiles. It has no Varibale intake control either.

But give the FE DOHC same larger camshafts and it still won't need to rev as hard but if you do so - it will still make more power then the SR20. The head desgin also allows it to be reved more cleanly.

Kl-ZE powered Mx-6 I can tell you now are quick but say 0-100 it's still not match for stock F2T mx-6 All the imported ones I've driven and seen by 80km/h the turbo is pulled harder. the KL-ZE may have great top end and it does enough to match the F2T but on the move it needs revs. Same as the FE DOHC but the FE DOHC can be lazy still. Even with the taller gearing in the F2 box the FE still pulls it like a F2 not as strong below 2000rpm but fine.
All the Kl's and ZE version with auto box'es which have the taller gearing all struggle on higher loads and below 3000rpm. Ze's suffer more IMO.

I'm not saying not to do it. NOr will it be hard.

But as I said to someone else on here it can be done but the V6's swing has to be looked at for mounting. the GD shape can eat it with ease but the V6 were chosen for low center of gravity and in mounting in Gd shape they sit high.

It's not hard conversion to do - I can think of harder ones to try but using a FE DOHC - makes the ltitle things eaiser - EG -
driveshaft positioning - PS connections - radiator connections (KLs run side to side setup ) A/C connections. Nothing hard but they add to the cost and complexity to the whole conversion.
 
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