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I knows sumpthin
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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Mine is an IHI VF-30, it's got a .63 a/r, six bladed wheel and flows a helluva lot more than the itty bitty stocker...Here's why:

The Turbo, was purchased through a local guy for around $600 locally in Salt Lake and came with an internal wastegate.





And installed with a full 3" custom built turboback exhaust with a flexpipe Flowmaster muffler:






Manual Boost Controller controlling it all Mounted on the stock BPV connector pipe. Got it from a great seller off Ebay, (Highly Recommended!!)



Turbo XS Blow Off Valve neatly tucked under, available from www.TurboXS.com And also on Ebay.com





And the
(with my drag tires)

Before I start it should be said that this is how I did it, and it was done on a well-maintained, mechanically sound motor utilizing all stock components unless otherwise noted. All modifications are at your own risk and your experience may vary, this is simply meant as a guide.

Putting the turbo in is acutally fairly un-involved. Biggest issues are the flanges for the stock manifold and downpipe and building the downpipe itself. For us the process was easy, make a nice trace of the shape of the flange needed to match up to the turbo's flange with all the correct opening and bolt holes. Then take the trace to a local metal working shop, in my case Wasach Steel and have it either plasma cut or water cut in the same thickness as the flange your connecting it to. We had it water cut, as it provides very nice edges. Of course if you're good you can cut it yourself and drill out the holes. IF you're either really good with a torch and/or a plasma cutter.

When they are done, you're ready to weld the turbo inlet flange to the stock manifold. Of course your stock turbo is off as well as the studs going into the manifold. Again, you can either have a shop do this or if you're decent with a MIG welder do it yourself. I'd recommend beveling the edges and using Argon Gas. This helps you get a stronger weld with more material that won't crack. I've had my whole manifold and turbo glowing from lots of boosting and not experienced one crack. Nor have any of the other four we've put together in this exact fasion.



Next is attaching the turbo to the flange. You'll of course need gaskets for your new flange and for the downpipe flange. These can be had directly from a Subaru Dealership or from various online places such as www.SubyDude.com and others.

You'll want to use some fairly high grade hardware for attaching the flange to cope with the heat and vibration. To start we tapped the manifold flange for threads and simply used a bolt screwed into that. We found that was not enough as the bolts, through heat and vibration could back out, causing a serious exhaust leak, pre-turbo causing drop in boost preassure. And it burns up your gasket. So, next a through-bolt was set up with a longer bolt and a a locking nut as can be seen in the in-car shots. Be careful getting the bolts tightened as you want them to be very even. I recomment tightening the front two reasonably snug first and then the rear. If not, the large gap between the two bolts on the front can develop a leak. A third option is to use studs in the manifold flange. Once screwed in tight weld the tops of them and use a lock washer along with a suitably sized nut and tighten to around 25ft-lbs Of course your other option is to completely weld the turbine housing to the flange/manifild as seen here:



Benefits: IT WON'T LEAK!! EVAR!! Meaning you'll never have to take the turbo completely out, as well as the radiator, manifold and all the other things in the way, EVAR!!

Drawbacks: If you ever need to replace the turbo bearings or it blows, you'll have to take the whole manifold out (easier if you do) and simply take the turbo apart while attached to the manifold. There's a V-Band clamp that you can see as the shiny piece of metal between the mid-section and turbine housing. And if you ever want to change your turbo you'll have to get a new maniold which you would have to anyway, unless you WANT to cut the flange off you just welded on })

Next comes the downpipe and exhaust.. Unfortunately to make the whole turbo fit, unless you run a considerably smaller downpipe, heavily fabricated you will probably have to remove your A/C and making it even easier also removing your Power Steering. Although it could be done with your A/C but it would probably require a custom manifold to move it over a bit. You'll need more high grade bolts/nuts to mount it up as well as the appropriate gasket from the site listed above. If you have the ability to build it yourself go for it, I recommend a full 3" turbo back with a nice free-flow system after that. If you can't do it yourself, hope you somebody who can, or a good exhaust shop.

After that connection of everything else is rather simple. The oil return line needed a bit of trimming but otherwise worked fine. I used my own coolant hoses and the stock oil supply line. The coolant hoses were considerably longer and I looped them around the turbo inlet piping which you can see just to the right of the compressor housing as two red hoses. The stock intake piping, as well as the stock outlet piping fit up just fine.

The Blow Off Valve. This is an excellent upgrade with this bigger turbo. The stock BPV may not be able to effectively bypass the boost without causing some compressor surge (compressor surge is bad, it ruins turbos) Almost any GOOD BOV will do as long as it is rated to work with the PSI range you plan on running. Of course using an aftermarket BOV/BPV will require blocking off of at least one ofthe stock BPV's ports in the plastic charge pipe and the turbo inlet tube. I simply made a matched plate along with RTV and bolted it on over the stock BPV's flange on the plastic pipe. Your other option is to simply replace the whole pipe with a similarly sized metal/plastic one. As for the hole in the inlet side, I used a stubby bolt that fit snugly in, and a hose clamp.

I recommend something sized close to the Turbo XS Type H. It comes in a few different varieties including a BPV version if you want to keep it quiet. as well as the RFL (Really Frucking Loud) version. Of cours there are many brands which would work fine as well, Greddy, HKS, TurboSmart, ect. Just make sure it's rated for the bigger turbo!. I mounted mine on the metal charge pipe between the intercooler and throttle body as seen here:





I recommend this location over the stock location as it prevents the air in the charge pipes and intercooler from having to travel backwards, and then reversing direction again when throttle is re- applied. Also it prevents charged preassure from backing up against your throttle body witch will help keep your TB Boot on since it sometimes has a tendancy to back off. I simply used a universal adapter, cut a hole and welded it in place. The BOV fits on over that. Don't forget to connect the top nipple to a vacuum source ;)

Continued below...

Laters
Ryan
 

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I knows sumpthin
Joined
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8,277 Posts
Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
...Continued From Above....

Also, if you didn't already have it you will need a manual boost controller this one:



I've found to be an excellent alternative to the very pricey Turbo XS High Performance MBC. It was $43 shipped from a great seller on Ebay and I have yet to make this bugger spike! Also it has a wastegate bleed off function which allows you to fine tune the boost down to .5 psi, very easily! I prefer it to other $12 cheapy versons that can be had from Ebay. Plus it comes with nice aluminum mounting bracket ;)

As for how much boost you'll be able to run/how fast you'll be? On my STOCK ECU, Injectors, and Fuel Pump, I'm limited to only 10 psi. After that it runs lean and cuts out above 5k RPM. At 7 psi I ran 15.7 @88 MPH with a 2.5 60', no traction in 1st, spinning into second. Coincidentally, that's what the stock turbo guys run on 12-15 psi, with Intake/Exhaust. At 10 PSI with the same 2.5 60' I ran 15.1 @ 95 mph with no traction in first and spinning all the way through 2nd, no weight reduction, pump gas. I dropped .6 and went 7 mph faster with only 3 more PSI!! With the addition of drag radials and some nice 2.1-2.2 60' times I'm looking for mid 14's at 10 psi. With 15 psi and ECU/Pump/15+ lbs I'm shooting for 13's...At 4500 ft!!

This is a great turbo and a great upgrade. I recommend it to anybody who wants a very nice setup and plans on running really fast. Included is some more information on the turbo. There are a few other options for which the install would be identical, all flanges and hookups would be exactly the same, only difference would be end performance.

VF-30, as we've discussed here is a .63 A/R cold side turbo with a 6 bladed compressor fan.

VF-34 is the EXACT same as the VF-30 but with the benefit of a Ball Bearing system. This means about 500 rpm quicker spoolup, lower bearing temperatures due to less friction and thus longer life. And as you'll see below it can be had for only $30 more over the VF-30, so why not upgrade??

VF-22. This is the Granddaddy, with a compressor of .71 A/R it's significantly bigger than the VF-30/34 and will have much more potential for power, however because it is a BB design, it will spool much like the non-BB VF-30, and when it can be had for as much as $85 LESS :eek: than a VF-30...WHY NOT?

VF-35. This will be very similar to the VF-30/34, but having a slightly smaller overall size (haven't found any hard specs yet) it will spool a good ammount quicker and still provide a very significant increase in power and potential, however it is the most expensive of any, and when more can be had for less it may offer up the quiestion of...WHY?

Here is some usefull information I've been able to find:


The following is from www.ClubWRX.net
I've thrown in a couple oddballs including the VF-22, the turbo that Zach used to put out 250 whp and 309 wtq with 16 psi, stock injectors and pump and a nicely ported re-built head.

Turbo Type ----------- Approx flow @ pressure

T3 60 trim ----------- 400 CFM at 14.7 PSI
(
========= 422 CFM max flow for a 2 Liter at .85 VE pressure ratio 2.0 (14.7 PSI) 7000 RPM )

IHI VF-30 ----------- 435 CFM at 14.7 PSI
IHI VF-22 ------------ 440 CFM at 14.7 PSI

T04E 40 trim -------- 460 CFM at 14.7 PSI
( ========= 464 CFM max flow for a 2.2 Liter at .85 VE pressure ratio 2.0 (14.7 PSI) 7000 rpm)

IHI VF-30 ----------- 460 CFM at 18.0 PSI <--- estimate based on trap speeds of cars running this turbo
IHI VF-22 ------------ 490 CFM at 18.0 PSI <--- refigured

Go Here For tons of great information about upgrading your turbo.

Places to buy supplies:

Turbocharger................................................... www.Turbo-Speed.com
VF-22 $715
VF-30 $775
VF-34 BB $876
VF-35 $1149

TurboCharger and required Gaskets......................www.SubyDude.com
VF-22 $750 Shipped
VF-34 $749 Shipped
Downpipe/Turbine inlet gasket $15 each Shipped

Turbocharger CHEAP!.......................................www.TurboMetrics.com
VF-22 $615 :eek:
VF-30 $699
VF-34 BB $729
VF-35 $875

Blow Off Valve and Boost Controllers....................www.TurboXS.com
More Blow Off Valves.........................................www.Ebay.com
More Boost Controllers.......................................www.Ebay.com

Sites of Reference:

ClubWRX.net
Turbo Information

Laters
Ryan

Comments on this how-to can be found here: http://www.mx6.com/forums/showthread.php?p=875277
 
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