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okay I have the garage at my house I don't know what to do though. Or know if I have the tools to do it. Plus the highest it gets off the ground it with a jack....
So how is the Quality on the eBay parts...
 

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caseys charges 60 per head, would be a good idea to do, esp. with the current condition...I can do a comp test for you, it doesn't sound like you're too far from my work, but atm I don't hav ea running car, so would be hard for me to pull off...if all goes well mine will be back monday, so we'll see...some ebay sets seem to be ok, zach will be trying an eristic set

OK, now for bill...finally got pics;)



Used josh's old pan, had a nice dent in the bottom, not the final pan, so I just straightened it enough for now...next step will be a bit now, but will be nice

now just gotta get the leaky turbo thing fixed...but it's cool I look like a diesel, or like the motor is about to go...

fixing all these little things is kinda what is taking so long, but since my dad is willing and able to take me to work, I guess it works...will be changing the spark plugs tomorrow as well, the turbo will be going back in as is, I will get to it in a bit
 

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well, 2gen is almost all the way back together, would have been, but found out there is a free dumpster in the neighborhood, and did an emergency back yard clean out...that put me back into cleaning mode, so I started cleaning up in the garage again...getting relatively close to fitting a 3rd car in it again...finally decided to clean out other people's shit they left

I put a restrictor on the turbo oil feed, too, so see if maybe that helps with the smoking...

Ill get a couple pics tomorrow, I unbillified the front end, still ugly, but no longer looks like a halo-helmetless-elite-guy:) the stock bumper is with mark's old bumper getting set up to my specs;)
 

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So drove it around today...I have a clutch again, it's sooo nice;) also the oil restrictor seems to have done the trick, I think it still smokes a bit under boost, but tons better than it was:D My right headlight decided to be lazy I guess, b/c it didn't work when I was driving around...when I got back, I unplugged and replugged with nothing, then twisted the lock to pull the bulb out, but just twisting it kicked the light on, so whatever...

Not only is it nice to drive a car again, it happens to be a boosted kl, so it's that much nicer;)

Still have a leak from the tee where bill tied into for the turbo, and somewhere on the backside of the motor, undecided, but I think it might be the p/s, except I haven't ever had to add any and its not low...haha 3 3 letter a words in a row and it made sense;)
 

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So I am going to try to fix the probe... does anyone have a spare throttle body (the thing with the butterfly) that attaches to the intake manifold and the iac connects to it....
 

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2.5 V6 engine is what he needs the throttle body for.

Zach, did I just give you a 93 KL IM?? Think maybe I could get the throttle body back from it?? The one in Dylans car is way sloppy. With the throttle open, I can move the shaft and flap back and forth about 3/8 of an inch! crazy. He also needs the timing covers if anyone has extras laying around. I'm sure Josh trashed his. Unfotunatly I can't time it without the rear cover that has the timing marks on it. :(
 

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I might have a spare tb...you gave me a 93 im a while back, but I don't think it had one on it...same deal with the timing covers, I know I have one set, but will need them for the one I bought from mark...if I have spares I can post back up, though
 

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Oh, was that you I gave that 93 IM to? I couldn't remember. I know I held on to it for over 3 years. That's how it goes, as soon as you get rid of something, a need comes along.

If you have any of those parts let me or Dylan know.

We did a compression test and found one cylinder a little low, the other 5 are in the 140-145 range, IIRC number 2 was in the 120 range. I'm still thinking it's not a blown head gasket, it isn't smoking bad at all, just a little oil burning here and there. The top screw on the TPS is broken off so that can't be held in place correctly or adjusted acuratly, the EGR vent line and the charcoal canister line were reversed, and the timing can't acuratly be set since there are not timing marks. The timing was advaced a bit (from the best I can tell) and the idle air screw was turned way in. I think that with replacing the throttle body, and getting the timing set acuratly will lower the emissions enough to get it to pass.
 

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That mani did have a tb on it, and atm is extra...but I don't have any covers...the motor I got from josh didnt have either of them...I can remove the tb and take it to work monday if you guys want...can try for tomorrow, but don't think I'll make it to the garage tonight...rough day and I need to strip everything out of a room tonight...
 

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Matt, whenever you can get to it would be great. Dylan still needs to get the other parts, and the TB will be the easiest to do. How much do you want for the TB??
Dyl, when are you planning on getting the covers knock sensor and EGR connector?

Does anyone here know how to fool the knock sensor? The knock sensor should work on resistance, so most can be fooled by putting a resister in the place of the knock sensor.
 

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Matt, whenever you can get to it would be great. Dylan still needs to get the other parts, and the TB will be the easiest to do. How much do you want for the TB??
Dyl, when are you planning on getting the covers knock sensor and EGR connector?

Does anyone here know how to fool the knock sensor? The knock sensor should work on resistance, so most can be fooled by putting a resister in the place of the knock sensor.
The knock sensor is a piezoelectric device that creates an electrical current which the ECU monitors. So I doubt a resistor would have the desired effect.

Why do you want to fool the knock sensor, in what?
 

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In the probe it has also gone kaput.

EDIT...
I am not going to pick up parts untill I know what all I am going to need.
I found how to test the sensor (knock)
Inspection
1. Verify that the ignition switch is OFF.
2. Disconnect the knock sensor connector.
3. Measure the resistance between knock sensor terminal
A and the knock sensor body by using an ohmmeter.
Specification: Approx. 560 kn [20°C {68°F}]
It also says I need a special service too to remove....
 

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Considering you gave it to me, I would give it back;) Still leaves me with 3, once in the black car, 1 in the green car and 1 for the extra motor when it gets built for the black car...
 

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Dyl, not the valve covers, the timing covers... We need those to time it correctly. I'm working today, then have a counter top job to finish up before going to do the Mother's day thing with my GF and her mom and sister. I should be able to test the knock sensor tonight before going to bed. I'll have to text you the results since my computer at home is not connecting to my wireless router.. :(

Matt, I feal bad taking it back, let me see what parts I have laying around, maybe I can trade you for some other part you don't need yet. :D I may have a couple alternators for a KL...
 

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Bill, timing on the KL isn't a big issue. Once you remove the jumper between the GND and TEN pins the computer takes over, and no amount of moving the distributor will change the timing at idle or with revs.

It does slightly affect starting, it will fire a little quicker, as the computer needs fewer revolutions to time itself.

FWIW, Kitty and Carmen were both without timing covers, and never had the base timing set. :)
 

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You'll never convince me of that. Just like the rear O2s shouldn't effect the air fuel mixture on the OBDII cars.... I saw a difference with my 93 when I set the timing correctly as it should be. I don't want to take a chance and waist money on another emissions test until I'm certain I have done every thing I can to make it run as clean as possible. The covers can't be that much, and it'll be less than 2 hours to put them on.
 

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You'll never convince me of that.
I don't have to, try it some time. :p
Using an timing light that can be advanced hold the engine at 3k rpm, advance the timing light until you see the timing mark on the pulley and then move the distributor. Doesn't move for me, or change the way the car runs.

What did you find on yours?


Just like the rear O2s shouldn't effect the air fuel mixture on the OBDII cars.... I saw a difference with my 93 when I set the timing correctly as it should be.
Right, they shouldn't, and I can't say I've encountered a car they did, and every tech class I've been to says they are ONLY to monitor the performance of the catalyst, however, I wouldn't be surprised if some manufacturers programmed something in. :p


I don't want to take a chance and waist money on another emissions test until I'm certain I have done every thing I can to make it run as clean as possible. The covers can't be that much, and it'll be less than 2 hours to put them on.
Agreed, it never hurts to be sure on all fronts. :)

Speaking of the emissions, Dyl, what are the numbers it's putting out?
 
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